I'll double check for the bump! Also, I was thinking about what you said and maybe adjusting the valve to overcome the issue. I might try that too. I've so far only been adjusting to factory specs. Thanks everyone for the suggestions. It'll be a bit before I can work on it again.
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Hard to start
- Thread starter z28derick
- Start date
I'll double check for the bump! Also, I was thinking about what you said and maybe adjusting the valve to overcome the issue. I might try that too. I've so far only been adjusting to factory specs. Thanks everyone for the suggestions. It'll be a bit before I can work on it again.
What I do instead of WASTING time IMMEDIATELY adjusting intake valve lash when I FIRST encounter SUSPECTED valve lash issues, instead of immediately adjusting the intake lash with tools, I just check using feeler gauges and whatever it gauges, for example
.006, I just insert a .003 gauge to take the INTAKE lash to specs and crank test using the feeler gauge to bring lash within specs or even slightly less.
If it cranks through ok I know that adjusting to specs should be a go.
If it don't crank through I look for the bump. If I see the bump the electrical system needs checked, battery, starter, etc because it's getting the dump.
With experience you can feel the dump when rotating the engine flywheel manually instead of electrically.
You're saying leave the feeler gauge in while you turn it over? How do you hold it to stay? Or do you just prop it up?What I do instead of WASTING time IMMEDIATELY adjusting intake valve lash when I FIRST encounter SUSPECTED valve lash issues, instead of immediately adjusting the intake lash with tools, I just check using feeler gauges and whatever it gauges, for example
.006, I just insert a .003 gauge to take the INTAKE lash to specs and crank test using the feeler gauge to bring lash within specs or even slightly less.
If it cranks through ok I know that adjusting to specs should be a go.
If it don't crank through I look for the bump. If I see the bump the electrical system needs checked, battery, starter, etc because it's getting the dump.
With experience you can feel the dump when rotating the engine flywheel manually instead of electrically.
Yes, leave the feeler in place if you want to save lots time at first.
You can crank the engine with a 1/2 inch ratchet on the flywheel nut to SLOWLY turn the engine and watch for the intake bump holding the feeler gauge in manually held in place first with lash in specs then gradually reducing the lash.
You have options about how to crank engine with feeler in place to see if the engine will spin through with reduced compression..
Get a helper, (if possible) or
crank electrically if no helper by using the starter solenoid electrically. (best way)
Jumper 12v to the starter or
Remove the flywheel screen and spin the engine using a 1/2 inch drive ratchet on the flywheel nut
I do not have a helper so I rig the machine electrically with jumper wires or cables so I can hold the feeler in place and engauge the starter.
Make sure the ignition is killed. If the engine starts it will immediately pump lots of oil.
You will find on some of the Briggs engines especially ones that have several hours of use that you can adjust the valve lash to specs, spin the engine a few times and recheck and the lash has changed and REQUIRES more time fiddling around adjusting again.
The above procedure saves lots of time to see if a correct valve lash is going to correct a engine crank through.
I've seen NEW Briggs cam's fail quite often. They are wimpy made. (not a very good engineering design)
You can crank the engine with a 1/2 inch ratchet on the flywheel nut to SLOWLY turn the engine and watch for the intake bump holding the feeler gauge in manually held in place first with lash in specs then gradually reducing the lash.
You have options about how to crank engine with feeler in place to see if the engine will spin through with reduced compression..
Get a helper, (if possible) or
crank electrically if no helper by using the starter solenoid electrically. (best way)
Jumper 12v to the starter or
Remove the flywheel screen and spin the engine using a 1/2 inch drive ratchet on the flywheel nut
I do not have a helper so I rig the machine electrically with jumper wires or cables so I can hold the feeler in place and engauge the starter.
Make sure the ignition is killed. If the engine starts it will immediately pump lots of oil.
You will find on some of the Briggs engines especially ones that have several hours of use that you can adjust the valve lash to specs, spin the engine a few times and recheck and the lash has changed and REQUIRES more time fiddling around adjusting again.
The above procedure saves lots of time to see if a correct valve lash is going to correct a engine crank through.
I've seen NEW Briggs cam's fail quite often. They are wimpy made. (not a very good engineering design)
Just some more general info about your engine:
Another GOOD reason you need to REALIZE is IF the compression release on the camshaft is broken, chunks of metal pieces is being churned in the engine oil sump and WILL EVENTUALLY make their way into gears internally and completely ruin the engine.
If you do not see the compression bump you should not attempt to run the engine.
If you take a engine apart to replace for example the camshaft you need to MAKE SURE you retrieve ALL the broken pieces. I make sure I have all the pieces like putting a bunch of puzzle pieces together.
Another GOOD reason you need to REALIZE is IF the compression release on the camshaft is broken, chunks of metal pieces is being churned in the engine oil sump and WILL EVENTUALLY make their way into gears internally and completely ruin the engine.
If you do not see the compression bump you should not attempt to run the engine.
If you take a engine apart to replace for example the camshaft you need to MAKE SURE you retrieve ALL the broken pieces. I make sure I have all the pieces like putting a bunch of puzzle pieces together.
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Perhaps it's not that because I've been running it for 3 years now with the issue lol. Just getting tired of it. I adjusted the valves successfully the first time and it worked like a dream but every time I've tried since it just wouldn't take so I began to think compression relief. It'll be a couple weeks before I have a chance to fiddle with it but I appreciate everyone's advice.Just some more general info about your engine:
Another GOOD reason you need to REALIZE is IF the compression release on the camshaft is broken, chunks of metal pieces is being churned in the engine oil sump and WILL EVENTUALLY make their way into gears internally and completely ruin the engine.
If you do not see the compression bump you should not attempt to run the engine.
If you take a engine apart to replace for example the camshaft you need to MAKE SURE you retrieve ALL the broken pieces. I make sure I have all the pieces like putting a bunch of puzzle pieces together.
Just another hint to not overlook.
May not be your issue but just saying, it's not always the mechanical release that causes issues.
I've seen some of the Briggs single cylinder Intek cam's that the cam lobe wears down. Not enough lift..
Seen one that was almost completely round.
May not be your issue but just saying, it's not always the mechanical release that causes issues.
I've seen some of the Briggs single cylinder Intek cam's that the cam lobe wears down. Not enough lift..
Seen one that was almost completely round.