Kohler SV-601 - Fresh soot around crankcase closure plate

According to the manual for my Kohler Confidant engine,

"A partial vacuum should be present in crankcase when engine is operating. Pressure in crankcase (normally caused by a clogged or improperly assembled breather) can cause oil to be forced out at oil seals, gaskets, or other available spots.

Crankcase vacuum is best measured with either a water manometer or a vacuum gauge. Complete instructions are provided in kits."

I bought the mower with this engine used. It's a commercial engine, and looked to have been used hard. I fought oil leaks for the first 3 seasons. I finally have them fixed. I think I had bad head gasket(s), which would create crankcase pressure, which would blow oil past the seals. During the last off-season, I replaced the head gaskets, main seal, and resealed the oil pan and valve covers with fresh RTV. For the first time, it doesn't use oil, and the engine and engine bay isn't getting covered with oily dirt. I have a few areas I mow under trees which don't have a lot grass. These areas kick up a lot of dust, and I've been fighting oily dirt buildup since I bought it... until this season.

I recommend getting a vacuum gauge, and measuring crankcase vacuum. I wish I'd done that before doing the "mini-rebuild". I recommend this one. It's only $25. My crankcase vacuum is good now, but I don't know what it was previously.
The Kohler video (
) shows a DTI-33 vacuum gauge being used with a stopper fitting in the oil fill tube. How is a measurement taken with the ET1013 Digital Manometer you linked? I don't see that it includes such a fitting.
 
I went to Home Depot, and bought some rubber stoppers of various sizes. Then I found the stopper that fit in the oil dipstick tube. Then I drilled a hole in the stopper just big enough for one of the small tubes that comes with the gauge I linked to. The DTI-33 gauge is good, too, but it's over 2X as expensive.
 
According to the manual for my Kohler Confidant engine,

"A partial vacuum should be present in crankcase when engine is operating. Pressure in crankcase (normally caused by a clogged or improperly assembled breather) can cause oil to be forced out at oil seals, gaskets, or other available spots.

Crankcase vacuum is best measured with either a water manometer or a vacuum gauge. Complete instructions are provided in kits."

I bought the mower with this engine used. It's a commercial engine, and looked to have been used hard. I fought oil leaks for the first 3 seasons. I finally have them fixed. I think I had bad head gasket(s), which would create crankcase pressure, which would blow oil past the seals. During the last off-season, I replaced the head gaskets, main seal, and resealed the oil pan and valve covers with fresh RTV. For the first time, it doesn't use oil, and the engine and engine bay isn't getting covered with oily dirt. I have a few areas I mow under trees which don't have a lot grass. These areas kick up a lot of dust, and I've been fighting oily dirt buildup since I bought it... until this season.

I recommend getting a vacuum gauge, and measuring crankcase vacuum. I wish I'd done that before doing the "mini-rebuild". I recommend this one. It's only $25. My crankcase vacuum is good now, but I don't know what it was previously.
I don't see a link to the gauge.
 
I don't see a link to the gauge.
It was in post #7. Here it is:


It's made for testing airflow in HVAC ventilation systems. But it's a manometer, and works fine for measuring crankcase vacuum. However, be sure to use the average function, and let it average for about 30 seconds. Without averaging, the readings jump all over the place.
 
I went to Home Depot, and bought some rubber stoppers of various sizes. Then I found the stopper that fit in the oil dipstick tube. Then I drilled a hole in the stopper just big enough for one of the small tubes that comes with the gauge I linked to. The DTI-33 gauge is good, too, but it's over 2X as expensive.
That was my first thought, too - I may even have a stopper on hand. Thanks for clarifying.
 
Why would you run the engine without the blower housing? For any extended time. That would be like running your car without coolant in the radiator. The blower housing directs the air from the cooling fins on the flywheel over the fins on the cylinder to cool the engine.
I didn't understand the function of the blower housing... glad I didn't have to find out the hard way. Thanks for the info!
 
Hello G.,

Many people understand what happens inside the engine cylinder above the piston but never think of what happens below the piston inside the crankcase.

Without a crankcase breather system, the displaced air inside the crankcase would build pressure and force air and oil out of every gasket and seal possible.
 
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