2007 John Deere Z425 zero turn - right side wheel not turning

StarTech said:
Yes pictures help verify which of the three units you have. Basically you have a dual pump and two wheel motors.

The item with the T bar is not an adjustment, it is just a bypass valve that is either open or fully closed. Closure is done RH until until seated. You open it to move the mower when the engine not running.

The only adjustment that can be done is the neutral position. This done at each lap bar assembly. Basically it is done to keep the mower moving in neutral IE lap bars outboard.

Sorry for the late response, had to recover from yesterday's heat and I got at least three more days of heat index of 110+. Then it rains and turns into a stream room. Just too blame hot in the sun on asphalt to work.
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Tiger Small Engine said:
Has a bypass rod on the transaxle. It is either in or out, engaged or not engaged. Try working it back and forth and going through the purging process for air in the system.
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When you write, "working it back and forth" I'm not sure what exactly I need to work back and forth?? Sorry to be so dense.
 
bryanfaz said:
Thank you for getting back to me. When you say work it back-and-forth, do you mean the control arm? Heavenly the control of the armies are that I use to steer and propel the mower, right? I have had it out in the yard trying to work it out, pushing it forward backwards. Something just isn’t catching, mocking, or engaging. It just does not happen enough power to equalize thrust from the left side if I’m on a flat surface are going downhill, it can provide a little proportion, that being the right side. Otherwise, that right side is just dead. I can’t imagine what happened with that T Rod was loosened too much.
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Dual pump and two wheel motors for hydro means there is no “working it back and forth”. There is a bolt on pump that is the bypass. You open that in order to push or pull the mower when servicing and repairing it. Close it fully to operate it. There is an off chance that the o-ring(s) got damaged somehow when opening the bypass bolt. Make sure you check that, and purge the system correctly. Also make sure the oil is at correct level.
 
Tiger Small Engine said:
Dual pump and two wheel motors for hydro means there is no “working it back and forth”. There is a bolt on pump that is the bypass. You open that in order to push or pull the mower when servicing and repairing it. Close it fully to operate it. There is an off chance that the o-ring(s) got damaged somehow when opening the bypass bolt. Make sure you check that, and purge the system correctly. Also make sure the oil is at correct level.
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Is it OK too run that T Rod all the way out again? I’m guessing I don’t really have anything to lose since it’s not working. I appreciate the detail!
 
Don't mind me as I don't know a lot, but in the 2nd pic (JD1.jpg), it's looks likes a cable is hung up around the end of what looks like the end of some sort of piston rod attachment point.

Optical delusion?
 
Bob372 said:
Don't mind me as I don't know a lot, but in the 2nd pic (JD1.jpg), it's looks likes a cable is hung up around the end of what looks like the end of some sort of piston rod attachment point.

Optical delusion?
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Bob372 I'm not sure. I'll take another picture to help clarify what's going on there.
 
Update. I contacted my John Deere dealer in my area and the gentleman that I spoke to had a similar situation with his personal mower. Identical symptoms. He recommended, which worked for him, removing the t-rod completely and remove, inspect, and/or replace the O-ring. Then, purge the air, etc. I wasn't able to completely remove he T-rod as there wasn't room to pull it out. I did clean the O-ring, sprayed some WD40 on it, tightened T-rod, purged air...and no improvement. I'm going to try to completely remove the T-rod and O-ring again. But I'm wondering if I'm purging the air incorrectly. What I've done is leave the T-rod open 1/2 turn, move the control arms forward for 5 seconds, then reverse for 5 seconds...3-4 times. Then, close the T-rod completely, lower the mower off the jack, and attempt to operate. When the mower is on the jack, the wheels turn fine. Under load, limited power from the right side. The left side works perfectly.

Any thoughts???

Thanks, by the way, for all of your comments. This is incredibly aggravating.
 
bryanfaz said:
Update. I contacted my John Deere dealer in my area and the gentleman that I spoke to had a similar situation with his personal mower. Identical symptoms. He recommended, which worked for him, removing the t-rod completely and remove, inspect, and/or replace the O-ring. Then, purge the air, etc. I wasn't able to completely remove he T-rod as there wasn't room to pull it out. I did clean the O-ring, sprayed some WD40 on it, tightened T-rod, purged air...and no improvement. I'm going to try to completely remove the T-rod and O-ring again. But I'm wondering if I'm purging the air incorrectly. What I've done is leave the T-rod open 1/2 turn, move the control arms forward for 5 seconds, then reverse for 5 seconds...3-4 times. Then, close the T-rod completely, lower the mower off the jack, and attempt to operate. When the mower is on the jack, the wheels turn fine. Under load, limited power from the right side. The left side works perfectly.

Any thoughts???

Thanks, by the way, for all of your comments. This is incredibly aggravating.
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I told you to do this, and then you contacted John Deere, and they told you to do this. 1/2 turn on bypass hydro release is not enough. Turn it a few full turns until bypass is open. Move steering arms forward and backward at idle 15 times, repeat at mid throttle, repeat at wide open throttle. Then repeat this entire process with bypass bolt tight and closed. All the time while doing this, your rear wheels are jacked up and free wheeling on jack stands.
 
This exact same issue was covered in another post....more food for thought....
B

Thread 'Purging a tuff torq DUP 10 E drive .'

Got a 2007 JD 425 Z track with the sideways engine and a DUP 10 E pump driving a pair of wheel motors ( M0Z425J040186 ) /DUP10E # 10E035050
It wrapped up some wire around the drive & clutch , ripping the clutch off
So it got pushed around a lot because the owner is trying an insurance claim against the NBN installer who left all of the old wire on the ground
So it has been to 3 repair shops for quotes with the clutch hanging off the PTO shaft
So I have got the clutch off, dressed the shaft fitted the new clutch well & good
But no drive to the right wheel weak drive to the left .
So I...
 
Tiger Small Engine said:
I told you to do this, and then you contacted John Deere, and they told you to do this. 1/2 turn on bypass hydro release is not enough. Turn it a few full turns until bypass is open. Move steering arms forward and backward at idle 15 times, repeat at mid throttle, repeat at wide open throttle. Then repeat this entire process with bypass bolt tight and closed. All the time while doing this, your rear wheels are jacked up and free wheeling on jack stands.
Click to expand...

RevB said:
This exact same issue was covered in another post....more food for thought....
B

Thread 'Purging a tuff torq DUP 10 E drive .'

Got a 2007 JD 425 Z track with the sideways engine and a DUP 10 E pump driving a pair of wheel motors ( M0Z425J040186 ) /DUP10E # 10E035050
It wrapped up some wire around the drive & clutch , ripping the clutch off
So it got pushed around a lot because the owner is trying an insurance claim against the NBN installer who left all of the old wire on the ground
So it has been to 3 repair shops for quotes with the clutch hanging off the PTO shaft
So I have got the clutch off, dressed the shaft fitted the new clutch well & good
But no drive to the right wheel weak drive to the left .
So I...
Click to expand...
Correct..you did tell me and JD told me and neither worked!! That's why I requested additional detail. I'm quite sure you are both correct. The problem is on my end, I just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I TRULY appreciate the additional detail. I'm praying it works. Will advise ASAP.
 
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