Tips for blade sharpening, how do ya’ll do it?

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For sharpening a mower blade, I have started using flap grinding wheels, and there's nothing that removes as much material as fast as a flap wheel.
 

stevestd

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A (bench) belt sander is easy to use leaving a smooth finish compared to other methods used. The rounded end on the sander can also be used for curved blades. Buy a dedicated balancer if you are serious about blade balance. You don’t see a tyre (tire) fitter not balancing a new tyre on a car, which doesn’t spin as fast as a mower blade. I guess that the heavier and longer the blade, the higher the necessity for correct blade balance.

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gbrewer

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I’ve seen ads for blade sharpening tools and such, I used to use a bench grinder to sharpen them until I got an angle grinder. I’ve been using that, but I feel like there is a better way to get a flat edge with a consistent angle. Any opinion on drill mounted sharpeners? Perhaps ya’ll have or use something else? Any way to speed this up?
After research on blade sharpeners, I saw one American model that cost $269.00. I found a sim looking model on temu for $56.00 and ordered it. I had to do a few little mods at the joints for smooth action. I use a flapper disk 36 grit and get amazing results. Adjustable angles for different blades, (I use 30 degrees on most blades). I'm away from the shop now but will post info from the container when I get a chance. Good luck with the cheaper model.
 

Skippydiesel

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A (bench) belt sander is easy to use leaving a smooth finish compared to other methods used. The rounded end on the sander can also be used for curved blades. Buy a dedicated balancer if you are serious about blade balance. You don’t see a tyre (tire) fitter not balancing a new tyre on a car, which doesn’t spin as fast as a mower blade. I guess that the heavier and longer the blade, the higher the necessity for correct blade balance
Sorry Stevestd - no idea how Took MakerTims name got attached to your words

You only have to worry about blade balance, when you damage the blade OR sharpen it.
Can only try and avoid damage - S--t happens!
Sharpening is a deliberate choice, that you impose on yourself, for little gain & substantial cost. 😈
 
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"Sorry Stevestd - no idea how Took MakerTims name got attached to your words

You only have to worry about blade balance, when you damage the blade OR sharpen it.
Can only try and avoid damage - S--t happens!
Sharpening is a deliberate choice, that you impose on yourself, for little gain & substantial cost".
😈
"Sorry Stevestd - no idea how Took MakerTims name got attached to your words"
Tool Maker Tim served a four-year apprenticeship and has forty-plus years of experience as a Tool Maker, friend. So Skippy, now you know!
"You only have to worry about blade balance, when you damage the blade OR sharpen it.
Can only try and avoid damage - S--t happens!"

Profound observation. Okay, no argument from me there!
"Sharpening is a deliberate choice, that you impose on yourself, for little gain & substantial cost." 😈
Hold on a second there, Skippy! There are those of us in society who are not content to just settle for the basic explanations of life. Many want to know the mechanics of how things work, why a blade cuts, etc. I confess that I am one of those people!! I enjoy a challenge and an opportunity to learn new things! The title of the thread is: Tips for blade sharpening, how do ya’ll do it? The author of the thread didn't ask for the feasibility of sharpening blades, but rather, he was searching for knowledge! You don't mind if some folks color outside of the lines occasionally, now do you?
I use an angle grinder with a flap wheel (36 grit, if I'm not mistaken), and it cuts well. I still grid my drills by hand, with a drill point gauge to keep me honest. For that matter, doing your Small engine repair sucks much of the time. There is no sensible reason to keep wrenching, except that it keeps me interested, and it occupies the place in my mind that was formerly the home of Injection molds and progressive dies. Lastly, I do not claim to be a professional small engine mechanic, more along the lines of "Shade Tree" at best. But as long as I have customer bringing me their tools, I suppose that I'm good enough! Yes, I'm (or was) a damned Cracker Jack Too Maker! That's something I'm pretty proud of! Have a good day there, Skippy!
 
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After research on blade sharpeners, I saw one American model that cost $269.00. I found a sim looking model on temu for $56.00 and ordered it. I had to do a few little mods at the joints for smooth action. I use a flapper disk 36 grit and get amazing results. Adjustable angles for different blades, (I use 30 degrees on most blades). I'm away from the shop now but will post info from the container when I get a chance. Good luck with the cheaper model.
Hey gbrewer, take a look at this one It looks pretty cool (at least on the screen): https://www.amazon.com/ZHSYMX-Model...+5005&qid=1753738956&sprefix=,aps,206&sr=8-18
 

MParr

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40 grit flapper wheel on an angle grinder.
 

Skippydiesel

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Hi TMT,

"Hold on a second there, Skippy! There are those of us in society who are not content to just settle for the basic explanations of life. Many want to know the mechanics of how things work, why a blade cuts, etc. I confess that I am one of those people!! I enjoy a challenge and an opportunity to learn new things!"
In a slasher type mower (high speed blades rotating in a horizontal plain) the blades cut by impact/penetration. Every impact takes energy/power. The sharper the blade the less energy (fuel consumption) is required. Due to the high speed of the blades the difference in energy required to cut the sward between a sharp & a dull/blunt blade is minimal and the "quality" of the cut differs little.
Suggestions that the sharp cut damages the grass less is fanciful at best. Most grasses have evolved to not be unduly impacted by grazing animals that tend to tear the grass (not shear it of cleanly).
The operator of the mower might like to compare the cost of sharpening (labour/time & accelerated loss of blade material) with the cost of additional fuel consumed by blunt blades - the sharpening will cost more.
Sharpening is a feel good exercise - do it if it gives you satisfaction or if your customer wants it done.

Drum style mowers, use a diffrent cutting process - the grass is cut by being sheared between a stationary surface & a moving blade - in this instance sharp blades make a considerable difference to both efficiency/speed & quality of cut. The need for regular sharpening of blades, adjustment and cost has seen the move away from this type of mower except for very highly manicured laws eg golf greens

"The title of the thread is: Tips for blade sharpening, how do ya’ll do it? The author of the thread didn't ask for the feasibility of sharpening blades, but rather, he was searching for knowledge! You don't mind if some folks color outside of the lines occasionally, now do you?"

All true however I draw your attention to your own words "...he was searching for knowledge!" - I have provided an opinion that he (others) may like to ponder 😈
 
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Hi TMT,

"Hold on a second there, Skippy! There are those of us in society who are not content to just settle for the basic explanations of life. Many want to know the mechanics of how things work, why a blade cuts, etc. I confess that I am one of those people!! I enjoy a challenge and an opportunity to learn new things!"
In a slasher type mower (high speed blades rotating in a horizontal plain) the blades cut by impact/penetration. Every impact takes energy/power. The sharper the blade the less energy (fuel consumption) is required. Due to the high speed of the blades the difference in energy required to cut the sward between a sharp & a dull/blunt blade is minimal and the "quality" of the cut differs little.
Suggestions that the sharp cut damages the grass less is fanciful at best. Most grasses have evolved to not be unduly impacted by grazing animals that tend to tear the grass (not shear it of cleanly).
The operator of the mower might like to compare the cost of sharpening (labour/time & accelerated loss of blade material) with the cost of additional fuel consumed by blunt blades - the sharpening will cost more.
Sharpening is a feel good exercise - do it if it gives you satisfaction or if your customer wants it done.

Drum style mowers, use a diffrent cutting process - the grass is cut by being sheared between a stationary surface & a moving blade - in this instance sharp blades make a considerable difference to both efficiency/speed & quality of cut. The need for regular sharpening of blades, adjustment and cost has seen the move away from this type of mower except for very highly manicured laws eg golf greens

"The title of the thread is: Tips for blade sharpening, how do ya’ll do it? The author of the thread didn't ask for the feasibility of sharpening blades, but rather, he was searching for knowledge! You don't mind if some folks color outside of the lines occasionally, now do you?"

All true however I draw your attention to your own words "...he was searching for knowledge!" - I have provided an opinion that he (others) may like to ponder 😈
A well-considered and intelligent response, sir! I tip my hat to you!
"The operator of the mower might like to compare the cost of sharpening (labour/time & accelerated loss of blade material) with the cost of additional fuel consumed by blunt blades - the sharpening will cost more."
I would argue that the increased fuel consumption with a dull blade would be negligible. That might be worth setting up a controlled experiment, just to find the answer. Physics dictates that you are correct, but to what degree? I have a John Deere LX288 Lawn Tractor and a Cub Cadet LTX1050 Lawn Tractor (both machines have blades of similar condition, as in sharpening time is just around the corner). My John Deere is, without a doubt, the smoothest infernal combustion engine (concerning Lawn-care machines) that I have had the pleasure of operating. However, when it comes to cutting grass, nothing beats my Cub (a non-scientific opinion). Is this because the Cub has three mowing blades, and the John Deere has just two? What do you think?
"All true however I draw your attention to your own words "...he was searching for knowledge!" - I have provided an opinion that he (others) may like to ponder"
Yes, I must concur! Rather rude of me to ignore an alternative point of view! Eating my own words is akin to dining on fried liver and washing it down with Pepto-Bismol! Thank you for your insights, sir.
 
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