kevlar or rubber deck belt?

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Stay away from 8Ten belts, short life.
Hi Freddie21,

I'm curious why you say that. Have you used them for commercial purposes in the past, or regular seasonal residential use?

In the past 5 years, I have had no issues with any of the 8-ten belts, blades, spindles or pulleys.

Note: I do modify the sealed spindle bearings to make sure more grease can get in them.
 

Wrenchit

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Yep, most DIY articles appear to be written by AI with a lot of filler words and very little technical content. On the other side of the spectrum are the technical articles from companies like Bando that jump all around with cross dimensional charts and fitment tables.

As for longevity of design, if using aftermarket designed belts, I prefer a Kevlar reinforced belt over a Nylon cord design.

The drive traction belt normally takes the most wear and heat simply for the lack of cooling air, so Kevlar is a better material. The deck belts generally last longer due to more cooling air and can be made from nylon reinforced cord material.

I am not sure what the poster is referring to when they say "rubber belt" an all-rubber belt would be much to light for any lawn mower application. Rubber is only a binding product used in the belt construction. The Kevlar, Aramid or Nylon cord is where the strength of the belt come from.

V-belts for mowers are designed to grip on the angled sides and not on the inner or outer circumferences/ flat surfaces.

When it comes down to what ultimately works, people should go with the manufacturers original belt when possible.

Why? Because they are designed for the machine. Belts that just say they will "fit" does not mean they have the correct profile design.

Examples: A belt that rides to far down in the bottom of a "V" pulley will slip because the side grip surface of the "V" is no longer functional. A belt that rides too high on the out edge of the "V" will wear a groove into the angled side face of the belt and eventually the belt will roll and twist or it will develop a "jump off the pulley" problem.

If cost is the deciding factor, that is strictly left up to the individual. OE belts are expensive, but doing a little research will usually reveal who actually makes them for the OE manufacturers.
In this particular case, cost is not a deciding factor. This customer cuts 50 acres a week, every week, with two machines. Their place is a 97-acre campground that is rated in the top 10 in the entire U.S. To keep that rating, they have to keep the place looking manicured all year.
OEM Belts lasted 1/2 season. The Kevlar deck belts lasted 1 1/2 seasons. After using the Kevlar belts with great success on hundreds of mowers, I asked the customer to try one of these out, not expecting anything different under such harsh conditions. After it went so much longer (almost two years), that's all he will use on anything now. On top of that, what was costing him $400 a year in belts is now less than $70. This particular Kevlar belt is sourced from Indonesia, while all their cogged belts are US-made.
Engaging the clutch-driven belt at WOT doesn't do the belt any favors either, IMO.
So, operation also comes into play.
I'm all for OEM, but when there is a longer-lasting option, it's a no-brainer.
It just happens that these certain belts are very inexpensive compared to the OEMs.
When I order belts, I do not use AI.
I use 50 years of hands-on repair knowledge and a credit card.
 

Justwayne

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Stay away from 8Ten belts, short life.
Do you know who manufactures to murray belts? Can pm me if private. You think the oem murray belt or a sten, oregen belt is best. Murray is 34$+tax Sten 24$ and oregon 28$. Home depot and lowes have the belt for 20$+ tax they just dont include a warranty.
 

Justwayne

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In this particular case, cost is not a deciding factor. This customer cuts 50 acres a week, every week, with two machines. Their place is a 97-acre campground that is rated in the top 10 in the entire U.S. To keep that rating, they have to keep the place looking manicured all year.
OEM Belts lasted 1/2 season. The Kevlar deck belts lasted 1 1/2 seasons. After using the Kevlar belts with great success on hundreds of mowers, I asked the customer to try one of these out, not expecting anything different under such harsh conditions. After it went so much longer (almost two years), that's all he will use on anything now. On top of that, what was costing him $400 a year in belts is now less than $70. This particular Kevlar belt is sourced from Indonesia, while all their cogged belts are US-made.
Engaging the clutch-driven belt at WOT doesn't do the belt any favors either, IMO.
So, operation also comes into play.
I'm all for OEM, but when there is a longer-lasting option, it's a no-brainer.
It just happens that these certain belts are very inexpensive compared to the OEMs.
When I order belts, I do not use AI.
I use 50 years of hands-on repair knowledge and a credit card.
Oem belts for murray are kevlar belts or aramid the brown belt or are you referring to a different oem deck belt that is rubber? These last 1/2 season compared to kevlar oem or aftermarket deck belts that lasted 1 1/2 seasons?
 

Wrenchit

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Do you know who manufactures to murray belts? Can pm me if private. You think the oem murray belt or a sten, oregen belt is best. Murray is 34$+tax Sten 24$ and oregon 28$. Home depot and lowes have the belt for 20$+ tax they just dont include a warranty.
Since Briggs took over Murray, their belts are actually made by Briggs in the US and China.
 

Wrenchit

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Oem belts for murray are kevlar belts or aramid the brown belt or are you referring to a different oem deck belt that is rubber? These last 1/2 season compared to kevlar oem or aftermarket deck belts that lasted 1 1/2 seasons?
I was referring to A Ventrac Deck belt. They are 162 inches long and 5/8 inches wide on top. Ventrac gets $85 for the belt, plus $10 drop ship fee, and then add shipping $.
The same belt I got from the Vbelt guys is 27.38 plus 6.99 shipping
I order between 50 and 100 belts every year, and have had no issues other than customers giving me the wrong length.
Just a tip,
belt number often corresponds to the inside circumference. To get the outside circumference, you add 2 inches to the belt number. Conversely, if you measure the outside circumference, you subtract 2 inches to find the correct belt number. (This is for 1/2 inch belts only)
With 5/8" belts, A common rule of thumb is to subtract approximately 3 inches from the outside measurement to get the inside length for B-section (5/8) belts.
 

Hammermechanicman

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Here is an example of aftermarket using the wrong measurement. The stens belt is 107" and should be B110. The belt pic is the one that actually fits. The stens is 3 inches short.Screenshot_20250720_153148_Chrome.jpgCompress_20250722_195824_4766.jpgCompress_20250722_195824_4503.jpg
 
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