Oil for new cub cadet XT1 LT46

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bentrim

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You did not say what engine is on the mower. Kohler had that issue but it has been to long I don't remeber the fix.
Consider the cylinder lays flat, oil drains off the piston and cylinder and will seep past the piston rings especially if the ring gaps especially if the are on the bottom of the piston and especially if the are lined up.
It can also be caused by storing the mower with the engine leaning back which will cause oil to bypass the piston as oil will flow into the cylinder.
Unless it is excessive there is nothing to be concerned about, many new engines have that "problem".
 
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Auto Doc's

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Roadcadet said:
My mower cub cadet XT1 LT46 will exhaust some blue smoke and then stop. It happens when first started? Told that was normal? Told to use synthetic oil 20w50 outdoor power equipment ? Any commets. Thanks, Kim
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Chilidawg

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I just bought a new XT1-LT46 myself and haven't yet reached the 5 hour mark for oil and filter change. I didn't notice the Kawasaki engine mentioned in this discussion but the engine manual that came with my mower recommends 10W-40 for most temperature ranges. It made no distinction between synthetic and conventional oil. I suspect it will be happy as long it's the proper grade of oil and sufficient quantity.
 
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Auto Doc's

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Hi Chilidawg,

There is no magic life extension to using synthetic in an air-cooled engine, but it will not hurt it.

I use Royal Purple (RP) 20W 50 in my '95 Harley and I can tell a performance difference with that oil. In a mower it would probably be "over kill". RP does make 10W 40 also.

I only mention RP because it has a stellar reputation in the Harley community.
 
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Chilidawg

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Thank you for the feedback. I'll probably just use a good grade conventional 10W-40 and change the filter each time. I actually considered running Delvac 15W-40, but perhaps overkill?
 
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Auto Doc's

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Chilidawg said:
Thank you for the feedback. I'll probably just use a good grade conventional 10W-40 and change the filter each time. I actually considered running Delvac 15W-40, but perhaps overkill?
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Just don't use any generic brand is my opinion. All name brand oil is developed with certain additive packages. The generic brands are what I would call unregulated "vat wash" of the process and much of that is blended with so called "recycled" oil products to keep the cost down.

The base oil "cracking" process is pretty straight forward; it is the oil distributors who put the additive packages in the oil to customized it.

Check online for guys by the name of Lake Speed Jr. or Bob the oil guy. They go into detail about the process. It is lengthy but interesting reading.
 
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GearHead36

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I would just use the oil from the engine manufacturer. Yes, it's way more expensive than what you can get at Wallyworld, but...
- How much do you really use? I do one change per year. 2 qts. That's not going to break the bank.
- You know that the oil from the mfr will absolutely have the right additive package for your engine.
- No in-depth analysis needed. No need to figure out if synthetic is needed. Or zinc. Or any other additive.

Just buy a 12-pack from Kohler, Briggs, or Kawasaki and be done with it. I have two riders, both with Kohlers. I bought a 12-pack of oil, which will last me 3 yrs.
 
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