Recent content by txmowman

I wouldn’t classify the FR is prosumer. It is great for well kept lawns on residential lawn tractors (with a hood). On any zero turn (sit or stand) I would only use FT or FX. On wide area walk, FT, FS or FX. Any FR powered zero turn needs to not have a bagger installed and needs to have diligent...

My bet is that the choke will help.

I highly doubt it is a heat issue with the fuel or carburetor. If it is believed so, why not try to let it cool down before raising it up? Is there any presence of fuel getting in the oil? It really sounds more like a ignition coil issue. The engine is hotter after 5 minutes shut down than it...

@StarTech, true statement on the green mark up.

No, the coil number would not change. The Kawasaki coil should show 21121-2085 on it. Does it? If you disconnect the ground wire and there is still no spark then it can only be a failed coil or the magnetism of the magnet on the flywheel is too weak or the air gap is too large. The air gap is...

I believe that is the correct John Deere part number for the JS00 spec. I don't have a JD cross reference. Have you tried disconnecting the ground wire to the coil and seeing if the spark returns?

If a genuine Kawasaki part, what is the part number of the coil?

Good. Where did you get the ignition coil, is it genuine Kawasaki or off brand? What is the air gap set to?

Hi, Is power applied to the ignition coil ground circuit. This would damage the diode internal to the coil potentially. Is there no spark when you go to restart, is that what you mean by "blows the ignition coil"? Or, what is happening to give the impression that it is at key off? My initial...

As @slomo wrote, remove the main jet and the emulsion tube would normally slide right out. You can give it a push from inside the venturi. You will see the brass top sticking up. Be careful with the soft aluminum and brass, It is best to grind the flared sides off a cheap screwdriver to get in...

Happy to help. Pack that connector with dielectric or EP wheel bearing grease. If you power wash, be friendly around those/all connectors. Cheers

Although I'm not sure of anything scientific, some equate 1 engine hour to approximately 50 miles. So with this theory, 7500 divided by 50 is 150. Recommended oil and filter change is at 100 hours. So I would call this pretty close.

Check the connector at the ECU. Make sure there is no corrosion or damaged pin(s). The schematic for the power wire for the pump is provided by the Scag wiring harness.

I'm curious, what difference would the length of the filter make? How much time do you want the oil in the filter opposed to lubricating and cooling the engine? We're talking .000156" difference in micron rating. I highly doubt it will make any difference at all. Micron rating is not the only...