Recent content by timsch

Thanks. If it is excessive, which I'll have to look into how to check that, I hope it is a blocked breather hose. It runs too well otherwise for me to think about tearing into the engine for all of those other possibilities.

Hmmm... I've got plenty of older vehicles that have dipsticks that don't seal and those don't seem to have this issue.

I did buy a UV flashlight and used the dye. Didn't need it to find this oil mess though.

No leaks around the drain valve, or anywhere else. However, I noticed today after mowing a heavy film of oil residue on the engine cover coming from what must be the oil dipstick cap. So, I've got pressure in the crankcase. I hope that's not as bad as it seems it could be. It starts easily...

I was able to break loose the valve with the oil filter removed with a 1" open end wrench. The o-ring was hard and broke when I tried removing it, so it likely wasn't sealing. I have a couple of kits of o-rings and wasn't able to find a perfect fit with a single o-ring, but doubling them up...

There was a drain hose attached to the nipple that broke when I removed it before taking the picture; it was brittle from being cooked by the exhaust. Wouldn't the same happen to a drain hose with even worse results?

No, Star Tech, not too much info for me at all. Top notch post - much appreciated. You all have been very helpful. I'll need to check whether the dye I have is acceptable, but regardless, I need to order the UV flashlight. The kits come with glasses, but they list them as safety glasses...

From above: The oil is all over the place, but the last time I cleaned it off and checked it out before it got that bad again, it looked to be coming from the oil drain area. I've done that. Cleaned it thoroughly, checked right after the next mow and concluded that I needed to check the drain...

I have a Fastrak w/ the Kawasaki 21hp engine that has an oil leak too big to ignore any longer. Everything seemed tight, so I'm looking to take off the oil drain assembly and look for a gasket to replace. It's not obvious to me how to best get the thing off though. The drain nipple coming off...

I'll pull the carb and give it a once over. Would this solenoid be the problem with the 1st or 2nd issue? What's the best way to clean a carb these days? I hear that the old dunks that used to work well have been neutered by havin the most effective chemicals removed.

My Fastrak w/ the 19hp Kawasaki engine has a couple of issues that may or may not be related. I have to crank it over about 4 times at ~6-7 seconds each before it'll fire off when cold. Runs like a champ immediately when it does. Choke is engaged and I did smell fuel today when trying...

I have a gallon of Evaporust, but I thought it was mainly for surface rust removal. I used diesel just because I have a bucket of the stuff I use for cleaning parts so it was easy to soak. I'm surprised how stuck it is. My shop press rarely gets beat. I didn't think rust would stop it...

I left out in my 2nd post that I already got it out by hammering over just enough one of the two deck tabs holding the assembly in place to slip it out - didn't take much. That's how I got it soaking in diesel and then to a shop press. I'll just put it back in place and hammer the tab back...

Cut what out?

The pin is stuck tight inside the tube. i soaked it 24 hours in a tub of diesel and then the 20 ton shop press wouldn't budge it. Heated it with a torch & still no go. Looks like I'll be leaving it as is and just have it captured between the two deck mounting tabs to rotate in those holes...