Recent content by slomo

Did you get this thing running? Never heard back.

And not one visible screw or screw hole. Your FIRED!! My best lame Trump joke. LOL

What is the grass type? Cool and warm season turfs have a different recipe for maintenance.

Good point.

0230 could be mice chewing wires to the pump or wear as Auto Doc's said. Make sure you have battery voltage and a good ground here. 0174 might be from the 0230 code. 0337 could be the sensor or wiring to it. Clean and check main ground and other suspect wiring.

Lucas red is all thickeners. Hardly any oil dropped out at 400F in the video. Thickeners do not lubricate. All they do is thicken. So you are saying back in the day, you saw failed grease? Now you need a higher temp grease? I can see this in a turbine engine (high revs) but a lawn mower? High...

The heat test was at 191C or 375F. Way hotter than any real world usage. If your bearings are running close to 400F, you got other problems than grease. Is the ST grease even rated that high for temp? I see 300F for ST grease. Lucas I see rated at over 500+F. Lucas is just higher temp rated...

You are the first I've heard that buy it. LOL Would love someone to show some real testing that proves any Lucas product is better than say wallymart SuperTech grease. Most of it is hype and sales gimmicks. Not just Lucas products either. What I miss is the old days when you greased...

I'd look a the PTO and the electrical circuit. What code is it throwing? Need to investigate this.

My oil is better than your racing oil.

All NGLI #2 greases are tacky. Not like Lucas doesn't ever move once coated. Nothing but a sales gimmick. Lucas doesn't make one product that stands above any other similar product. Use what you like.

And take pictures.

I would demand a refund or new unit exchange. If the linkage is a foul, what else is?????

Never seen one. Normally need to jet down using a high altitude main. Most of the worn out mowers I get are rich runners with new air filters, choke wide open and clean fuel systems. Do you have mice chewing wires at your house? I would pull the top engine shroud and look around if so.

Failed plugs do happen, but, hardly ever fix anything. Clean yours and check them for spark before pulling the credit card. Hope you didn't get on Scamazon and get plugs. They are highly cloned items (NGK and AC Delco). Go to a real auto parts store.

None of that happens in typical lawn mower engines. Let's keep on track here guys. BTW, I was "joking" about the space shuttle comment RevB. No need to refresh it again. (y) o_O

Normally, those conditions are a clogged fuel delivery component or a failing ignition coil. If you require choke then fuel is at the top of your list. Long shot is the gas cap not venting.

Most overlooked cable ever. Glad you got her running.

OP ghosted us all LOL.

Other guys have good suggestions. Normally when time comes into play, mower dies after 15 mins, trash in the fuel tank. Could be a weak ignition coil getting hot failing. Sounds just as I and the others described.

Definitely not Scamazon nor Fleabay. Several mower parts places on the innerscreen.

Any carb that old the diaphragm probably turned stiff. Full OEM carb rebuild or replace with OEM. Most 2 smoke equipment actually cracks the throttle open with full choke. Read your engine manual and starting procedures.

What a country..... LOL Freaking genius with the paint.

Not like Briggs engines, well, guess they do make racing engines. Going to say they are not high rpm engines with any form of durable valvetrains. More Diesel like compared to gas motors. None are made to last 100,000 miles either like cars do.

Double check your engine numbers. Something has to be off. On some engines, I have to take a red oily shop rag and wipe the numbers. One guy on here I think used latex paint. Showed up like an x-ray machine. Really see the proper numbers after this was done. Forgot who it was or I would of...

Gord Baker said: MAP gas is still obtainable and is much hotter than Propane. Here are the burn temps from Google, propane vs mapp. You will never know the difference with a hundred degree spread.

Mapp gas is long gone. See below straight from Google.

Didn't expect it to, myself. Hope everyone got the idea about poor coil/spark testers. Don't use the inline Christmas bulb type testers. They do not tell the whole story of coil performance.

Here is Taryl's video on spark testers. Explanation starts at 4:04 through 7:07. Fast forward to get to the point.

Stop it with the inferior spark tools LOL. Taryl made a video "showing" all us how a coil can show "visible sparking" with the inline Christmas light types. Would blink at low, med and high revs with the bulb type. Gap type showed spark at low revs, nothing at mid and high revs at all. Weak...

You can hear one good cyl and one trying at times. Might have a valve nearly closed, that is stuck open. Definitely look at ignition and valves/cams. Pop the valve covers and see what you got.

I'm not a brand person. I have this one. I have the moly version of it that is black in color. More than enough for mower spindles.

Or that. Wow. Sorry for the bad luck.

I would say try a different grease. If it is sticky, once the grease is wiped away then you have zero lubrication. Sticky greases do not flow back into the area needing protection. Mobile 1 is simply a lithium grease. Forget all the claims and hype synthetic this and that. They claim such and...

WHAT? They sell multi-thousand dollar yard toys and can't even answer the f'ing phone? That pizzes me off. Wow......

That pic, looks like you are doing it correct. You have it on SE for small engines. You have it a little closed but should see something with a good coil. To me, this mystery spark, no spark is either a bad plug wire or the connector inside the plug boot?? Like the wire itself is not on the...

Ear plugs. I hope you are wearing ear protection, eye protection, long sleeves and a hat.

Stick around RevB, more stale comedy to follow. :p

All new parts, require, testing. New doesn't mean new these days. Put the credit card up and start testing what you have. Keep all your old parts. Most I'm guessing are good. Pull out the sparky plugs. See if she cranks over. Load test the battery. Check/clean/tighten power and grounds. Could...

Make sure the glue you use, is foam safe and will not burn it away.

Round Up or the ingrediant called Glyphosate 41% kills everything. Including your dominant grass you want to keep.

Fescue is different that St Aug. St Aug is wider bladed. Several types of fescues. Lots are blends of different grass seeds like Kentucky Blue Grass and so on.

Did you change the spark plugs?

Could be. It is correct on a lot of common things I've found. Try it on something you know what it is.

Try another weed ID ap. Look at Google images for Mondo and Lawngrass. See what you think. Take that sprig you plucked to a plant nursery. Get their opinion.

Chickanic on youtube found that canned fuel I think she said was stale or full of water. There was something wrong with it. Maybe it was old age? Anyway she said not to use it. No telling how many years it has been sitting on the shelves. Not many people buy it.

Your dominant grass is St Aug right? What turf type do you have?

Check engine mounting bolts.

Load test the battery.

What RPM do you mow at? Do you ever idle it down????????? All those cranking attempts will drain the battery. No wonder it didn't start back up. It takes several (15) minutes at MAX revs to "nearly" charge a battery back up. Mowers do not have large alternators to immediately top the battery...

Solder and marine grade heat shrink is a nice way to terminate properly. Marine shrink has a glue inside that ooozes out and seals the bond from the atmosphere.

Good tips above. Pull the fuel hose off AT the carb inlet. Drain into a glass jar or can. Look for water at the bottom. Specifically look for a healthy flow out of the hose. Do this till the tank is dry. If it has good flow for a bit then crawls, you have a tank vent issue. Good flow draining...

Pull the weed/grass from your yard. Snap another pic without the St Aug grass around it.

Focus in tighter. I got the same on a wider shot of your picture. Said it was St. Aug as you found.

I would prep the seat pan. Sand off all the old adhesive and paint. Use rough paper to allow the adhesive to get into the metal and stick. It's all about the prep work.

Any back-firing through carb or muffler is either cam or ignition timing out of whack.

Using your picture provided, Picture This said it is Mondo Grass.

Think it is also for cool season grasses as well. Read the label.

Open the tester gap to 0.25" or 1/4" wide minimum. Should jump this gap if the coil is good. No spark with kill wire disconnected means new coil time.

Make sure you ID it proper before firing harsh chemicals at it. Might be using the wrong herbicide.

There are many aps you can load on your cell phone. I use one called Picture This. Snap a picture of said weed or plant and it tells you ALL about it. Free ap on a Samsung phone. Works great to help me ID my weeds and such.

Mine looks great too without all the extra expenses. There are a couple guys on this interscreen that work along side these Air-8 and Humic companies that are getting fat off us. They make youtube videos and have a large following. Smart guys no doubt. They just make you feel like you "need"...

Snip off the after-fire solenoid plunger tip with some dikes. Install an inline fuel shut off valve. Close the fuel off about a min prior to killing the engine. Never have to worry about it starting again.

Flywheel key or new cam time.

These are mower engines not the space shuttle. Lapping seals valves to valve seats. Pretty important in the combustion process.

Check carb after-fire solenoid.

My usage with Air-8 was a waste of money. Tried their entire line for 3 seasons. Really laid the product down as in over dosing the juice on the turf. Still have stubborn clay. Done all the humic acids and other "tricks" to turn clay soil around. Never found any. Spent a lot of $$$$...

Need to put a multi-meter on the PTO circuit. Visual doesn't do much for wires carrying current.

You have a short on this circuit. Find out why and where on said circuit. Wires rubbing, mice chewing....... Call JD and ask for a diagram. I bet they have a toll free number. Keep your original starter solenoid. Has zero to do with the PTO.

One can use a cereal box to do just that. Also hit it with some Permatex High Tack gasket sealant. Works like a charm.

Most of those tow behind style aerators don't work. As in if you have hard pan clay soil, you have to get the moisture content perfect or it won't make cores/plugs. Too dry doesn't penetrate the soil. Too wet is a clay clogging mess. Best to rent a machine that mechanically punches cores into...

Never go off wire color to determine what is on said wire.

Blade or two upside down? Seen it several times. Wrong blades? Wrong spindle?

Honestly penetrating lube, does nothing but lighten your wallet. As you found, most of the time, it doesn't get past the rust. Those induction heaters for stud removal are cool.

Take any flammable spray juice. Spray it into the carb throat preferable with choke and throttle plates open. If it runs for 1-3 seconds then dies, you know you have a fuel delivery issue, good spark and good compression.

A cheap hot plate, cheap pot from the wife's cupboard with some Pine-Sol water.

Not at all. Never owned a 0 nor had a need for one. Soon as a company comes out that offers a superior design, less maintenance, easier to work on, better deck and blade combos, I'll stick with my fleet of old Snapper's. Can stand my RER on it's tail end and service away. And the pushers...

No, pretty fresh. Didn't see why 15 pages were needed on a leaky most likely dry rooted worn out tire.

That is a tool for checking spark. Is it the best tool for checking spark, no. Why - spark can fail at mid and high revs where the light bulb type will not show. Taryl on youtube has a video showing this exactly. These types below are superior spark testing tools.