Recent content by Rivets

First thing that comes to mind, are you sure that your new key switch is identical to the old one? They may look the same, but you must check the tabs on the back are labeled the same. Most people don’t realize that they must check this. If they are the same see if this wiring diagram fits...

I guess I read this thread wrong, as I was assuming the OP was looking for trimmer brands, not line brands. Sorry about that. I use any off brand I can get at the local home improvement store, but I spray the line with a small amount of light lubricating oil after installing. The oil keeps...

Try this procedure which I use on my Echo. Put the choke on fully closed. Put the rope 2 or 3 times, until you hear it pop. Move choke to 1/2 position and pull the rope until it starts. This procedure eliminates flooding the engine.

Before bad mouthing anything, take it back and have the mechanic take a look at it. At a good repair shop and in a reasonable time periID, most good shops will replace a defective part under warranty. Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve run into defective parts.

Before doing anything more remove the key and bolt. Then take some medium/fine abrasive paper and polish the crankshaft until it is smooth and shiny. Wipe clean with an oily rag and the sump cover should slide right off.

This is the trimmer I recommend to anyone that asks. I bought this 8 years ago and have had absolutely no problems, and I’ve abused it. I don’t know if this model is still available, but Echo is the only way I will go. https://www.echo-usa.com/trimmers-brushcutters/srm-266

This service manual should answer all your questions. https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tecumseh-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/TECUMSEH-SERVICE--REPAIR-MANUAL-OHH50-65-OHHSK50-130-OHV11-OHV17-OVM120-OVRM40-675-OVRM120-OVXLC120-OVXL120-OVXL125-695244A.pdf

This service manual will explain how to adjust the governor. https://www.georgiaffa.org/docs/sidemodules/57817_Honda%20Repair%20Manual%20for%20GCV%20135-160-190%20&%20GSV%20190%20(1).pdf

Check your RPMs, if it is running below 3400, adjust. Running below the clippings will not be cut or thrown out properly.

This is the procedure I use. Report back with your findings and we’ll work from there. Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1. How well you understand basic electricity. 2. What tools you have and know how to use. 3. How well you follow...

Thank you for educating me, I’ve always called that the front axle, learned something new today. Normally they should move freely, but I’ve seen a few where a bit of spray lube helps out.

Would you please explain what you mean by pivot bar? I’ve been working on equipment for over 50 years and have never heard that term on the front of a unit. This is probably why no one has responded.

I see I no need for the average DIY guy to purchase one of the expensive testers, which he will use as once or twice. I’ve used the simple neon tester for ever and have not had any problems. Do have one in my box, but I would be lying if i told you the last time I used it.

Maybe this manual will help you diagnose the problem. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Command-CH11-CH12.5-CH14.pdf

The kill wire I’m referring to is the wire attached to the coil. I made NO mention of the seat kill switch, which until you test the coil kill makes no sense in talking about.

Front wheel drive mowers are probably the worst mowers for steep inclines. Not much you can do to solve this issue.

Today’s coils cannot be tested without an expensive piece of equipment. If you are getting no spart through your inline tester, remove the shroud and then remove the kill wire from the coil. If you still have no spark, the experienced tech on this site will tell you to replace the coil.

Get yourself an inline spark tester and the next time it happens install the tester and check for spark. I suspect you will find no spark. You have either a hot short ot hot open, which means the coil will need to be replaced.

You are correct, the ignition module you will need is Tecumseh part number is 34443, superseded to Tecumseh part number 34443D.

Does anyone read the entire thread before posting? 45 posts and over half keep repeating check connections and battery. Constantly repeating the same solutions is not providing useful information and can get very frustrating.

When was the last time the belt was changed? If it has been three years or more I would start there. While you are doing that you should also check the idler pulleys and tensioner arm, making sure that they are in good condition and moving freely.

I would be checking your belt size. It wouldn’t be the first time we’ve seen a new belt that is too short, wouldn’t take much, that wouldn’t allow the spindles to completely release.

Might want to consider this also. https://www.toro.com/en/product/21472?srsltid=AfmBOopst985iIWCGO-HYPpm4eHRpxz96JCgXgXT_Lj_elCVEBuDCwrn

Slomo, read the first post, he’s looking for a cheaper tank that doesn’t breakdown or leak. I doubt color makes a difference.

Won’t get love with a comment like that, you must think the techs here have a crystal ball and have seen everything. Electrical problems are the toughest to solve, especially when we are not standing next to you with a strong drink, which you supplied, to see exactly what is going on. Most...