Recent content by Rivets

I have found Toro #38-1420 switches for $40.

Try putting 12VDC directly to the connector at the switch. If motor runs bad switch, motor doesn’t run bad wire or wires between switch and motor.

Have you tried starting by spraying carb cleaner into the air horn?

I don’t know if this service bulletin will help you out, but I thought I would pass it on. https://www.lawnsite.com/threads/37-hp-efi-vanguard-on-72-ferris-starting-issue.505229/ Also this service manual is available if you want to subscribe...

Personally, if you are happy with the Toro, stick with the Toro.

Have you looked at section 7 of the manual I attached? It does list two U-tube videos on troubleshooting the control module.

I’ll say it again, has anyone checked the spindle bearings and pulleys? If the blades are not turning properly, they will cause your problem. Bad bearings will slow down blade speed. As stated, anti-scalp wheels are just a mechanic who has no clue as where to look to solve the problem. I...

I own and service both Echo and Stihl and I only use Opti-2 in all my 2-cycle equipment. Never had a single problem and switched all my customers over to it. Definitely cheaper and easier to use than any of the ”brand“ name oils.

If we’ve (the techs on this site) said it once we’ve said it a thousand times, TODAYS COILS CAN NOT BE TESTED USING A MULTI METER, You need special equipment to test them, due to Hall Effect triggers inside the coil. Easiest way for the DIY guts to test a coil is to disconnect the kill wire...

Fuel solenoid shuts off fuel entering the air horn after you turn off the engine to prevent backfiring. Your problem is the float needle and seat are not sealing properly. Remedy is to remove the carb, clean and rebuild with a new needle.

Check your oil level and if it smells like gas. If so you have a carb flat needle that is not sealing properly. If not the problem I would be testing for blown head gaskets on both cylinders.

I have to admit that I sheared one on a Kohler twin when I turned the key to the start position while the engine was running. Jammed the bendix so hard that the flywheel just stopped. Didn’t expect that. Lucky I didn’t break the starter shaft or a rod off. Learned a lesson that day.

NO. First you said you set the magneto air gap at .030”, now you say you set the spark plug gap at.030”. The magneto air gap should be .010” and the plug gap should be .030”.

Blame my mistake on resting today not working. Sorry!!

This manual will probably be of some help. Retrofitting drag links probably aren’t helping your cause, as angles and lengths are critical. With a little research you may find bronze bushings to replace plastic, but I’ve had good results with OEM replacements. https://www.toro.com/getpub/48880

.003” air gap is TOO small. Should be .010”. This could easily be the cause of nonstarting. 65 psi could be the result of ACR working properly.

Just want to give a big shout out to all the veterans on this Memorial Day; THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE. Also want to remember all who paid the ultimate sacrifice for us so we can live the life we have. Without them who knows what we would be doing today. I know it wouldn’t be arguing about...

Yes, needs to get rid of that organic insulation and use synthetic. This will reduce the fire hazard.

Post #28 tells me you have a bad or loose connection in your starting circuit. Check to see if all connections are good and clean, plus tight. As the ground connection is through the starter housing, make sure that the starter is not loose.

Thank you for letting us know that the problem is solved. 95% of the time people don’t take the time to acknowledge that the problem has been solved. Takes to much effort.

When did this start occurring? All of a sudden or over time? Did you do any maintenance just before the problem showed up? Have you leveled the deck? If you are skipping that wide of a strip, I would be checking to see if all blades are turning at the same speed. Have you checked to see if...

Just my way of doing it. On Z-turn units I always inflate the front tires to 20 psi and rear to 10 psi. According to the owners manual Hustler recommends 8-12 psi for both front and rear.

Try this first. Push the throttle control to the fully choked position. Trace the throttle control cable to the engine. You will find a clamp which holds the cable to a bracket. Loosen this clamp and push the cable forward and while watching the choke lever on the carb. I’m guessing you...

I’m wondering if one broke, it was running for a while on one cylinder, then the other one broke. I’ve seen more than on engine running on one cylinder and the customer didn’t even notice it.

This is one time I would be taking it apart to find the cause. Never to old to learn something new, because this is so rare and haven’t seen it before.

If both pistons are not moving you will have to open the engine up to diagnose the problem.

ONPASSIVE. Please do NOT hijack another persons thread. By doing so you are doing more harm, as members do not understand why you would be posting here and you will only hurt the original posters chances of getting their problem fixed. Very, very poor etiquette on your part.

Please post the spec number for your Kohler engine and the part number for the coils you ordered. I would like to cross reference your parts.

When was the last time you changed the drive belt and checked the idler pulley and tensioner are. If the belt is 3+ years old, that could be your problem. If the tensioner arm doesn’t move freely, that could be your problem. If the idler pulley is worn, that could be your problem. Also could...

If it sat that long and the fuel lines are good I’m guessing the pump diaphragm is dried out and needs to be replaced.

If all you need is a new deck and can swap the parts yourself, a new deck is available. Do a google search “ Simplicity 1686978 deck” as they are available at a wide variety of prices.

I have no idea about electric mulching mowers, but in my opinion sticking money into that unit would not be a bad idea, unless you are seeing a problem with the engine. You have a quality unit worth a little TLC.

When was the last time you replaced the drive belt and carefully checked the idler and drive pulleys? A worn drive belt and or worn pulleys will cause this problem. Also, you should check the belt tensioner arm to make sure it is moving freely.

Guess your reading skills also need improvement. Both Star and I answered your question, plus Star went one step farther and explained how wrong idle speed can cause surging. The anomaly here is that we gave you an answer, but it is not the one you wanted, so we are as bad at being technicians...

All OEM carbs???

Must be part of the “I want it now and don’t do it later because I’m helping you out by coming to you” generation. These guys are the ones which since I retired I don’t miss. Got one down the road who never gets his back in less than three days, even though I fixed it the day he brought it in...

First of all, check your attitude and have a little patience. We are not at your beck and call. Do you assume the technicians on this site are waiting to serve others and should provide answers within 24 hours, we do have other lives and commitments., especially on the weekends. Service...

Don’t throw yourself under the bus to fast. We’ve all been there and done that. If you only do it once consider yourself lucky.

Chipper blades can be sharpened. I would check the condition of the drive belt. May be worn or tension loose allowing for slippage. If belt is more than 3 years old I would replace it.

Might try one of these sites which say they have an original. Beware Fleabay and Altozon are a crap shoot, make sure you call first or that it can be returned. https://gtmowers.com/briggs-stratton-593392-carburetor https://www.besttruckeq.com/593392.html...

TruFuel has nothing to do with it.

Then I suspect you have dirt in the carb from replacing the lines. Time to give a kit and rebuild the carb.

Are you looking for an OEM carb or carb rebuild kit? The spring is part number 217A on this site. https://www.partstree.com/models/44r877-0002-g1-briggs-stratton-vertical-engine/carburetor-fuel-supply-1/

This is a 4 year old thread, I assume the problem has been found.

Couple of questions. When you push the primer bulb, does it fill? When you replace the fuel line are you sure you attached them to the proper side of the primer? One side is an inlet and the other side sends fuel back to the tank when the primer bulb is full.

Must be too much work???

Doesn’t look like the part is still available. Did a Google search using that part number and found many supposedly available on the web. Your best bet would be to call each site to make sure they have one in stock.

Thank you for sharing what you found. Most guys don’t do that.

This manual for the twin. https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/32_690_01_EN.pdf?_ga=2.142262005.699966129.1715971117-1884316627.1715971117

If it came to me there are two things I would check. Remove the shroud and flywheel bolt and check to see if the flywheel key is sheared. While you have the shroud off check to see if the cover bolts are tight. Common problem to find them loose. If these two checks result in a positive...

Also, check the battery with a volt meter when you engage the PTO. I never trust OEM gages. If the battery voltage drops below 10VDC your charging system may not be working properly.

I doubt you have a mulching blade, you’re probably talking about the mulching fan. This part drawing the grass and does NO cutting, so doesn’t need sharpening.

Try searching for this, you should find plenty. Lawn-Boy 92-7738 Flywheel Brake Cable

Section 10, page 100, should answer your questions. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Courage-SV470-SV480-SV530-SV540-SV590-SV600.pdf

Sears Parts Direct

Get the model numbers for all the units you are looking at and then look at the IPL to identify which parts you need and which parts are the same. This is what we have to do.

How about a bad spark plug wire or connection, opening as rpm’s increase. Or spark plug itself.

Try to remove 2 gauge power cable from a 72” two spindle rotary cutter. About 10 years ago customer came in dragging 20’ behind his cutter. Had to tip it over and use a cutting torch to get it out. Power company said it was the customers fault and wouldn’t pay a dime. I still don’t know why...

Maybe this manual will help. https://www.scribd.com/doc/47347672/Onan-P216-P218-P220-P224-Service-Manual

First, from the parts you listed I don’t think you are rebuilding a pulley, but more than likely you are rebuilding the spindle housing. This is not that hard, as the only replacement parts are the bearings, maybe a new spindle and the spacer inside the spindle housing. Before removing the...

Please give us the tractor model and serial numbers, plus the part numbers for the parts you ordered. There are different setups and with those numbers we can tell you what needs to be done. Many have rebuilt these setups many times, we need to see your setup to advise you.

Sorry but you’re out of luck with my model. It is a model YA201 which not around anymore. Only way to find one is get lucky on FleaBay, but remember “BUYER BEWARE “. Make sure you have a good seller and have a good old auto mechanic test it out.

Personally I would recommend a tester where you can actually put a load on the battery. Being an old fart I would like to see if the battery can take a load, not have guess whether a cell may be bad or not. I’ve been using my old Snap On analog which tells me the condition of the battery, but...

This user manual may answer your questions. https://www.konnwei.com/upload/KW208%20User%20manual.pdf

Never had an ongoing problem with LMT carbs, just with people who don’t take care of them.

You have got to be kidding me!!! Scrap a riding deck after every mow? I’ve never heard or have recommended this. What would grass under the deck have to do with rusting pulleys? If they would have said ”Blow off the top of the deck after every mow I would agree”. This would prevent a...

Rusty pulleys not diagnosed by to dealers, but still covered by manufacturers warranty after you apply pressure. Sorry, but I don’t buy it. I doubt they would have given you the old parts back, would claim they need to be sent back for analysis. Guess only time will tell if the problem has...

I hope your receipt has an explanation of what repairs were made. I many other techs on this site would like to know Scags solution.

This manual may help you out. https://www.toro.com/getpub/22446

Read this manual for troubleshooting procedure. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Command-CV11-CV12.5-CV13-CV14-CV15-CV16-CV460-CV465-CV490-CV495.pdf

If my memory is any good, the cover to access the valve stems, is behind the carb.

If you go with the cheaper one, just remember to change oil and filter each season.

You should have no problems with either choice.

Square key stock is square key stock. You should be OK.

Belt number should be 144959 and 95.5” long. Yes, a .5” will make a difference in tension on the belt engagement.

Where did you get the belt, as the belt could be the wrong size, too short. Post numbers under the seat so we can check which OEM belt you need.

Check your belt routing. Many times I’ve seen DIY guys route them wrong, putting extra tension on the belt.

Looks like the inside of the gas cap.

First do you have a small wire on the terminal on the switch where the battery is connected? This wire supplies current to the key switch? If yes and if I’m working on this unit the next thing I would do is check for power 12VDC at the key switch, B terminal. If yes, do you have power at the...

You have a 4 post solenoid. One of the two small wires should be the ground. Most would guess the green one, but I NEVER ASSUME. Check to see which one goes to a chassis ground. What is that connection, green to black, on the right hand side of the picture?

Sounds like a loose connection somewhere. First thing I would check is the solenoid ground. If you have a 3 post solenoid, it is grounded through the solenoid frame, when it is bolted in place. Make sure that this is very clean, no paint or corrosion between the two. If it is a4 post...

It’s a whole lot easier to check the float level in the carb than adjusting the valve clearance on a L-Head engine.

I’m smarter than you. My theory’s are facts, your theory’s are just what you want to believe. Remember, everything you read on the World Wide Web is the absolute truth and based on time honored facts, so what ever you say won’t change my mind.

Did you read my entire post? Your next step is to do a voltage drop test. First rule when you do electrical troubleshooting; NEVER ASSUME ANYTHING, CHECK EVERYTHING TWICE.

Something is not hooked up correctly, or you may have gotten a wrong part when you started throwing parts at it, instead of going through a troubleshooting procedure. Here is the service manual which should help you out. https://www.toro.com/getpub/78978

Start with something simple. Hopefully you have a volt meter. Attach the meter across the battery and observe the meter reading. Should be a minimum of 12.6DCV if fully charged. If not fully charged, attach a battery charger to fully charge the battery. Next try to start the unit, watching...

Personally I doubt your problem is valve clearance. To many times valves are blamed before easier solutions are exhausted.

First, this is a 2010 model. When you cleaned the carb, did you replace the float needle and seat, plus adjust the float level? I’m guess that being that old the seat has swelled and it is resulting in a lean starting and running condition. I normally set the float level slightly rich which...

Those are Briggs numbers. I need the Toro numbers, look under rearbagger cover.

Please post the mowers serial number as I don’t remember Toro installing a 7hp Briggs engine on their steel deck mowers.

Someone had WAY to much time on their hands during COVID.