Recent content by mpqualdie

I have an older Harbor Frieght 7200 watt and I have an older little small 2 cycle one from Harbor Freight. I only use non-ethenoyl gas in them and I run them at least once a year. When Helene hit being prepared paid off because we had to use the larger one to run the refrigerators and freezer...

Probably won't be a popular answer on here, but I used a Harbor Freight motor for a rototiller of mine and has done well for me. Also, using non-ethenol gas roll help in the future to not harm your carburetor. With my equipment I only use that, and stuff I store for periods of ti.e without using...

Then why would it run good when the blades are engaged, but not when they are off?

My thought is,, if it runs fine when they are engaged but surges up and down when disengaged it isn't a fuel problem. The clutch to engage the blades is most likely a electrical clutch. It is possible there is something wrong with the clutch or the harness. I repaired a Cub Cadet one time where...

The compression release on your cam is broken, or your valves need adjusted. There's a little nub that cracks open the intake valve just a hair to relieve the compression. Once the motor starts centrifugal force will pull the nub in and it runs normal. Very common problem on the B&S motors.

If you use gas with ethanol in it the carburetor diaphragms are probably shot. You should be using non-ethenol gas. Check that the fuel line and pickup weight in the tank are still intact. This is very common with weed eaters and chain saws. If tgat doesnt fix it, you can buy a new carburetor...

My dad bought one from a dealer used last year that was doing the same thing. The guy put a new fuel pump on it, but didn't clean out the fuel lines. I had to remove the carburetor and clean it out, really good. Like a dummy i put it back together and it did it again. I had to thoroughly clean...

Any mower I have/had you can run it without sitting on it by locking the brake on. Does yours not have that feature where you can press the brake and latch it on? If so latch it on and the mower should start without you sitting on it.

I don't know much about the Gravely motor, but B&S is really bad about the compression release going bad, so when you try to turn it over it can't get by the compression stroke. It just clicks and sits there. Might be something to look at.

I said if your mechanically adept, and also said to adjust the valve rockers when done. But for someone that has mechanical ability it is a fairly simple repair. And there is a lot of info and videos online that can help you through it as well.

I had a similar issue with mine. I just bought a brand new carburetor for it on Ebay. It was only like $28, never ran better. You said you put new non-ethanol fuel in it, did it have regular fuel in it before? I knew mine was the carb because I could prime it and it would run. if it won't run...

The compression release on your camshaft is broken so it won't release the compression, not allowing it to spin past the compression stroke. It's an easy fix if your mechanically adept. Remove the motor, drain the oil, flip it over and remove the bottom, change the camshaft and lower seal (on...

Broken camshaft most likely. A very common issue with the B&S engines. Little nub that cracks open the intake valve breaks off and the starter can't pull the motor past the compression stroke. Easy fix if your mechanically inclined. A lot of people buy batteries, cables, solenoids and etc., but...

If it's a Briggs and Stratton the camshaft most likely broke. I have a 21hp and a 17hp the same thing happened to, it's a common issue with them. There's a nub on the cam that opens the intake valve a little to relieve the compression so the starter can spin the motor. Once it starts the...

Thank you, this makes sense. I figured it was something to do with compression relief because once it starts it runs like new, just can't get the starter past that compression stroke. Thank you so much!