Recent content by Mark H_NO

If the problem comes back, fish the pickup/filter/check valve out of the tank and clean it. I had one that was clogging intermittently until I did that.

That should definitely help.

I see that a bunch have disappeared, but don't know how. I thought it was the power to move threads, but I didn't find a spam forum to move them to.

Now that a number of us have the power to move threads, is there a spam forum? I looked and didn't see an obvious destination for it.

There are a number of fuel problems that don't always interfere with starting. If fuel flows, but not enough, it starts, then starts starving. The needle valve/float, and fuel pickup in the tank can both do this Whenever you're troubleshooting, it's best to do basic fuel testing. It doesn't...

Check belts, make sure you didn't break a belt, make sure blades turn freely. If you turn on the key and engage pto. Do you hear a click/thump?

If it was seldom used, it could easily have carb issues, and still start easy. I'd start by pulling fuel line from carb, and checking flow. If sluggish, blow compressed air into fuel line and try again. If there's a filter, replace. Next I'd pull the bowl from the carb, and clean the bowl...

Thanks Star Tech.

Is it the pulley that wobbles, or is it in the gearbox. It looks like the shaft is solidly attached. That would make the problem in the box, bearings/bushings.

If the engine was running, it should have been more than 12.2 V. Another thing to check is to shut off the mower and check. Sounds like you're not charging though.

Check all safety switches. Seat switch, reverse switch(shuts off my engine if PTO is engaged) The manual indicates both of these switches shut down engine with blades engaged. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/506489/Mtd-13ao771h055.html?page=15#manual

Did you check the connection to the PTO clutch? Unplug it, and clean the connection and see what happens. When it disengages, what happens next? Can you cycle the switch and restart the blades? Please supply the model number and serial off the mower tag, in case anyone needs to check...

The red and white plastic is to restrict adjustment of the mixture screws. They are the black, under the red and white. I found https://www.manualslib.com/manual/183929/Troy-Bilt-Tb90bc.html?page=22#manual but it doesn't touch adjusting mixture screws. I searched, and found a couple of...

Yes, I looked at the picture. From the angle, I couldn't clearly see the top, and whether there was a screw head. The lock may have been the travel limiter I referred to. I'd look for a better manual. I agree that they really had very little about adjusting mixture.

Normally it's just a small/jeweler's screwdriver. From the doc Rivets posted clockwise leaner, counter richer. Normally clockwise will hit a dead stop. It's a good idea to note where the setting is. Turn clockwise to stop, note how many turns, use that as starting point. I didn't see a...

That can do it.

Did you try adjusting mixture? Check service manual Rivets linked.

What have you done to diagnose? Voltage regulator is suspect, could be various issues with wiring. You may have already done this, but I'd check/clean all battery/solenoid connections, connections to ignition switch etc. Voltmeter on battery, before starting, running, after running, etc.

I would replace the fuel lines. The primer can draw from the carb to the tank. That can end up pumping more air than you'd expect. If it starts well, I'd assume the prime system is working. Where was the filter you replaced? Was it in the tank? Check on what Rivets said too.

Have you checked the fuel pickup and fuel lines? It sure seems like it's not getting enough fuel.

Just in case, check fuel flow to pump and to carb. Pull line from tank to pump and see if it flows. If it does, replace, and go to carb. If not, blow into fuel line with compressor and try again. If it's better, clean tank and fuel pickup. Next pull line from carb, crank engine and see if...

So, engine stopped running? What happens trying to restart? If it suddenly completely quit, sounds electrical. Check the safety switches, battery connections, fuses, etc. I suspect seat switch. My mower had a safety on the grass chute that always tripped.

Duplicate

It looks like there's a hole under the link.

It's a good idea to change the oil, if fuel has been leaking into it. Watch out for cheap shutoffs, some need to flow one direction, and it's not always marked. They can also start leaking, so keep that in mind. I just had to replace one of mine for leaking.

Definitely check on that cable, and I'd check the solenoid/ignition switch as well. What I was talking about with the remote solenoid is that lots of them have easily accessed connectors, unlike yours. I figured you understood about remote.

Well Pete, that's a remote that's less accessible. I'd check the solenoid wiring and function. Disconnect from starter, connect battery. Check for voltage at the solenoid starter terminal with key off, on, and in start. Obviously, it should only have voltage with key in start position. If...

If it's a remote solenoid, it's often a more accessible connection than at the starter. 2 big wires at solenoid, 1 is battery, 1 is starter.

Solenoid mounted to starter, or separate(remote), I believe.

I think he was asking what should be 1/4" past, piston, or flywheel.

Sounds like the factory wiring diagram may not help a lot. While checking on wiring, it's always a good idea to clean up the battery, solenoid, and starter connections. Good luck.

Get out the voltmeter. Check those fuses, voltage at battery, battery connection at solenoid, wire from ignition to solenoid(key in start), solenoid connection to starter, also key in start position. Are there other fuses? Give us model number of mower and motor, so folks can look up details.

I just saw the fuse in Star Tech's diagram. Check the fuse, and the matching wire at the switch. See if you get 12v there with switch turned to start.

When you get it to crank, where are you connecting at the solenoid? Is it a big wire or a little one? If it's the little one, the solenoid seems to be working, and you need to look at the wiring to and from the ignition switch. Check fuses, there is one in the ignition circuit. If connecting...

It worked yesterday. It does sound just like something banging into sheet metal to me, which is why I said to check blades, though you're right it could be the shroud. It's worth looking at that also.

So, you say the key went dead. Is there no sound at all when you turn it to start? You say battery is good, how did you test? When is the last time the battery/solenoid/starter wires connections were cleaned? That usually causes slow cranking, but is worth doing any time you're wondering if...

Rivets has a point, but I've had pretty good luck pulling the bowl, cleaning float needle and seat, blowing carb cleaner through the seat, and cleaning the main jet, passages through the bowl bolt, and the passage above it. There are other passages, but that gets the main route mostly open...

Do you have a voltmeter? Measure voltage engine off, then start, and measure again at full throttle. Measure voltage with blades engaged. Voltage should go up after starting. Engaging PTO will bring it down, but how much it does should let you know if it's a voltage problem. Have you...

I agree that the cap has to engage with the cutout you show. This type of dipstick doesn't usually screw down into the shaft, the tabs on the cap grab the lip when you turn it. It may pull down just a little bit, but not like the ones that are threaded and actually screw in.