Recent content by m610

I had to modify the coil. The off/on (?) connector was on the wrong side and was in the way when bolting it on. I hope to finish this today.

Will do. I have feeler gauges I can use for this.

Thanks. I ordered one. The gap on my current setup is 0.022".

Thanks. I'll reset the gap. I could probably get the rust off while I'm at it.

I did try another plug. No go. I found some coils online: used - $20, new and never used - $300+ I wonder if I can recharge the magnet. Mike

The fun thing about working on equipment I've never worked on is that I need to buy more tools. ;) I got the flywheel off, and I don't see points or a capacitor, just the coil. I guess I either need another coil, or magnet or both.

I reduced the spark plug gap to next to nothing, and got nothing on my tester. I shorted the spark plug gap and the tester lit up.

I'm not surprised that Wisconsin motors are not listed here. ;) Anyway, I've got one, WI-185, and it is on a friend's post-hole digger, the earth drill type. It has not been run in years, so I cleaned it up, replaced the rust parts, repaired the fuel cutoff, cleaned the strainer, got it a new...

The intake valve does not do the tap dance, so yes, it looks like I'll need another cam. Per the video, it looks like a very doable procedure. I'll let you all know how it goes. Thanks for the tips, and the video is fantastic. Mike

Thanks for the suggestions. I cleaned every electrical contact, including the grounds, then shorted the starter cable straight to the battery, and the engine cranked great, for the few seconds I gave the starter power. I thought the problem had been solved. When I tried to crank it again the...

The valves are adjusted. They were actually really close to where they should have been. With the spark plug out, I cranked and the motor spun fine. After I put the spark plug back in the motor would barely turn. The mower has a new battery and starter. I made sure the battery had a full charge...

Thanks, all. As soon as it stops raining I'll give it a try.

Just to confirm what you are saying, the 1/4-inch that ILENGINE was referring to is a 1/4-inch movement of the piston, not some mark on the flywheel or another part of the engine. Correct?

I work on Opels a lot and that includes building engines. To find TDC we put a degree wheel on the crank and a dial gauge on the piston, then turn the crank while watching the dial gauge. As the piston gets near the top the dial gauge slows to such a degree that you can't be sure when TDC was...

Thanks. How do I find TDC? Is there a mark on the starter/ring gear?