Recent content by LarryJohnson

Replaced the fuse behind the kick panel, soldered up the wires, added shrink wrap and tested battery voltage while running; 14.1. Consider it a success. Thanks to all who helped.

...and why does the diagram show a diode instead of a VR.

...and 2 steps back. I removed the diode, soldered the connection back on to test the battery voltage under load, the engine ran for 3 seconds then shut off. I saw that the bare wires I soldered grounded out on the oil drain pipe, so I moved the wires, and now the mower won't even turn over...

Yes. Thanks. I still don’t understand why only 8v is being output from the regulator when the diode wire is disconnected.

So there's a diode under the shrink wrap? OK, should it just be cut out and wires connected back together. And I will move wires apart.

I'm getting 34v ac on the yellow wire coming from the engine, and 8.3v dc on red wire coming out of the new VR. Should it be getting 12v dc output or higher.

Yes, the two connectors are for the new VR. The top one is a solid connection. As noted above, one of the wires came with a bare metal female part with rubber outer cover. It plugged into the existing wire but the outer covering doesn't cover the existing connection. The old VR had correct...

no. the new VR didn't come with an outer connector, just a bare metal piece that plugs into the existing wire and the rubbery outer casing.

Thanks. The other end of the grey wire is mounted to the engine, so it grounds the VR. I switched it to the backside of the VR where there's more metal, but battery is still not charging.

The old voltage regulator had this grey wire connected to the center mounting screw of the regulator, so I re-connected there when I replaced the regulator. It appears to be a wire coming from the ignition coil, acting as a ground wire for the voltage regulator. The regulator is mounted to...

I've got a used Murray with a model 31R907, type 0007 G1 B&S that won't charge the battery. The new battery was used a few time to mow the yard and showing 12.5v sitting, and 12.3 with engine running. I replaced the voltage regulator but there's been no increase in voltage with engine running...

Just an update. In my months long journey to repair the mower it turned out to be a broken push rod on the exhaust side. Actually, it was broken. I suspect it bent the first day the mower shut down but after all my attempts to start the engine, the rod finally broke. The OEM rod is made of...

I've been trying, unsuccessfully, to diagnose the no-start issue with my mower; Murray 425009x8A with B&S 31R907-0007-G1 engine. It died while I was mowing. The flywheel spins and I can get it to run at 1/4 power for a second or two. I've been assuming that a bad switch would be like...

Thanks for posting the diagram. My seat switch has 3 yellow wires. Two are connected as shown in the diagram. I’m not sure where the third one goes. Also, I disconnected the “main” yellow wire near the solenoid to bypass the **** off switches, but still couldn’t get it to fire.

I found the fuse. Removed all the grass from the connection and replaced with another one but wasn’t even turning over. So old fuse replaced and taped up good. Motor turns, so fuse isn’t the issue.