Recent content by JBtoro

Tried to post the picture; not sure why it didn't appear.

Your advice was the best & led me to buy a new o-ring. When I compared it to the existing one, it was noticeably smaller in circumference. So, even though existing ring looked good ... well. looks are often deceiving. Anyway, I installed the new one & no leaking after 2 days in stow position...

Here's one from left field. Picked up a lightly used Toro Recycler with Smart Stow. Like it because I have limited garage space. However, original engine smoked because of a scored piston. Had a good Briggs Professional series engine that bolted right up to the deck & everything works as it...

Here's one from left field. Picked up a lightly used Toro Recycler with Smart Stow. Like it because I have limited garage space. However, original engine smoked because of a scored piston. Had a good Briggs Professional series engine that bolted right up to the deck & everything works as it...

Don't I have to disengage that bolt #4 through which the # 3 spring is affixed? The bolt is attached to the tranny housing via a threaded nut on one end and the head of it protrudes the the deck housing in the rear.

For some reason, the image didn't appear. I have attached it here.

Well, I did it & it works fine. The GCV160 has enough power to move this heavy beast of a mower and the transmission turned out to be good. Had to sacrifice the throttle & blade stop clutch because the donor GCV160 is from a Husqvarna mower that had neither. The GCV190 crankcase that is original...

Was brought this model to work on. Need to remove or at least adjust the tranny. Never seen one like this before. As handed to me, the handle bar drive cable has no tension and thus does not tilt the tranny thereby causing the belt to tighten and spin the pulley. Wondering if maybe I could...

Have a rotary style carb on a RedMax backpack EBZ7500. I cleaned the carb thoroughly (ultra sonic) and added new kit diaphragms & gaskets. Can't get it to start when cold after purging (working fine) on choke or any other position. But if pull the cord after I add a squirt of fuel down the plug...

Haven't sprayed yet but I did take off the air box cover so I could temporarily block off the intake of air through the carb. Saw a video where a mower continued to run after so doing (meaning that enough air was getting in elsewhere) thus indicating and later revealing a cracked intake tube...

Thanks. Maybe you missed it in my original post, "I even opened the bowl nut jet on one of the carbs with micro drill bits increasing the opening incrementally 3 sizes up from OEM." That is, I inserted bits until I found the 1st one that would not go vertically through the OEM bowl nut jet hole...

Thanks, will try that in the am. But again, I must ask, if in fact there is too much air getting in from the tube or elsewhere, why would the engine run great under load (blade engaged) but only surge under no load?

Your advice is most welcome. I think you must mean passages clogged to some extent. Perhaps, but I tried 2 other used carbs pulled from working, non-surging engines plus a new carb and the problem persists. The only passages I know of are the two pictured below plus the bowl nut passages which...

Quantum Model 120000 675 Series. Just one gov spring. Will check the intake tube. But if in fact there is too much air getting in from the tube or elsewhere, why would the engine run great under load (blade engaged) but only surge under no load?