Recent content by ILENGINE

the stacked pulley concept is actually very reliable. Maybe created more belt wear if you were using a moldboard plow, but with tillers and stuff like that it was fine. Even the old JD 110 and 112's used a stacked pulley system. So they used a 3 or 4 speed gear transmission with a vario...

Been around since the 60's worked on a few from the 70's Was used on their MTD garden tractors up into around the 2000's The low range was for ground engaging and tiller work. High range for mowing just like the current 6-7 speed setups.

I have several customers with ZTR's that will shut off the deck if both control levers are moved into the reverse direction, and then reactivate the deck if one or both are moved to go forward. So you can mow while turning around but cannot mow if moving straight backwards.

126L07-5662 superceded to 126M07-5661-F1 which is not longer available, and Briggs doesn't list a replacement engine. Mostly due to the fact that all the engines listed are L head, and would need to be replaced with a OHV matching the crankshaft specs of the original engine.

I would throw a couple spark testers on it and see what happens when it is running rough. Loosing fire on one or both cylinders intermittently possible.

Belt installed incorrectly. We will need your model number from under the seat to see what mower you have to give better advice. Also was this an OEM belt or a generic doesn't quite fit belt.

The thing is the title mentions one engine but the description talks about another. The engine in the title most likely is the Courage single which the block crack was possible. The engine in the description would be a twin cylinder either Courage or Command which would be another issue.

From the picture I would guess that is a 3-3.5 hp so most likely something in the 9xxxx series.

Easy way to check is to set your meter to DC volts and touch the red lead to the metal housing of the regulator, and the black lead to the engine block. See what the voltage is. Should be close to 0.

Can vary depending on model and brand. 90-120 would be in normal range for most units.

Back of my mind I am thinking loose flywheel magnets, but I don't think you would get 28 AC from the stator with the magnets loose. Could be weird battery issue, but that is about as strange as 28 AC with loose flywheel magnets.

Next time it stalls trying loosening the gas cap. I am thinking that you are either having fuel restriction due to not venting properly, or something in the fuel line or tank outlet that is obstructing the fuel flow.

Not sure what brand of engine you are running but Briggs came out with a oil filter torque bulletin and then are calling for a 76mm x 14 flute filter wrench. have to check with the local auto parts stores.

Try turning the idle speed down and see if it stops. If it doesn't stop then most likely the clutch is the issue. Had my personal Stihl brush cutter do that this summer. Issue was the weights on the clutch had rusted and were not retracting all the way to disengage the clutch. Had to...

All the generic Kohlers that I found are set up for Exmark which has the flywheel end extended pto shaft, or the wrong crankshaft length. Could be cut off and reworked for length but may be too much mods for your liking.

Take pictures as you take it apart to make it easier to reassemble.

The running poorly would be me first priority. Did you just spray carb cleaner into the carb, or actually take it apart and clean the inside of the carb.

Two things to check. Are you getting battery voltage on the B+ wire at the regulator. And make sure that the ground wire/strap is present from one of the regulator mounting bolts and one of the blower housing bolts. If the regulator isn't grounded it won't charge the battery. If both...

Lack of lubrication failure. Basically in simple terms. The cylinder got hot enough to melt the aluminum causing scoring and galling of the cylinder and piston. The area to the left of your circled area and the area on the bottom of the cylinder opposite of the circled area is also damage

Something to check. Make sure the plastic carb mounting flange hasn't come loose. Of the two carb mounting studs only the left stud screws into the engine block. The other one is a square headed into the back of the plastic mounting flange. the second bolt that holds mounting flange tight...

Comes back with a PA-CH730-0169 replacement engine, but like everybody else there are supply issues.

May want to check with your Hustler dealer. They may have an adapter plug to go between the old wiring and the new wiring.

OEM recommend anything from idle to full throttle engagement depending on the mower and the manufacturer. So there is no common theme between mowers and brands.

Make sure the transmission support bracket hasn't come loose allowing the transmission to tilt. Support bracket will be normally on one of the front corners. Also will lead to the frame cracking at the point the axle housing bolt to the frame.

Your options are to short block your existing engine, or get the crankshaft diameter and length from your old engine and then match it to whatever engine you are interested in. the mounting pattern will be the same no matter what brand of engine you decide on. the other thing is making sure...

Have you checked to make sure the choke is closing completely. Just a little gap of not complete closing can causing starting issues.

Looks like the spec number actually comes back to a short block that was used on four CV15 engines. Original spec number 41620, 41635, 41529, and 41584

@StarTech Yep still on backorder and currently showing pending again. My March ordered carb that was supposed to be ETA on September 2 is also now pending.

I think you are looking at the wrong issue. Install the key and torque the flywheel to the correct spec. Then adjust the valves clearance and then try it. Still don't spin then remove the engine and replace the camshaft after finding all the pieces of the broken compression release...

Engine serial number shows it was made in 2001.

591734 because your engine was built in 2014 and the cutoff date is January 4, 2016 and you have a type of 0041 not type 0046

It is supposed to be attached to the starter cup. Not necessary for running, Does help prevent large pieces of debris from getting into the cooling fins, but other than that really doesn't serve a purpose. just have to make sure you clean the cooling fins on a regular basis.

Model CV26S Specification number 79510 serial number 105908841 Stator part number 28 085 02-S

Did you bleed the hydraulic lifters after replacing the head gasket. May be holding one of the valves partially open. Any low oil pressure switch on that engine that could shut engine down. When it doesn't restart what happens if you put a small amount of gas into the intake will it do...

Have you checked and eliminated the seat switch, parking brake, pto switch and safety switches on the control arms as possible issues.

Just thinking along those lines, due to the number of ignition modules I have seen the last few years doing weird things. Like starting at idle, but would act like it is running out of fuel when rev'ed up. Or run for like 20 minutes and then act like out of fuel but actually the module is...

50 psi and 20% are not really out of the norm. Would like to see more compression but with compression release you can get some weird numbers sometimes. Just did a twin intek the other day that showed that exact figures on both cylinders. starts and runs fine after a plug change. Worked...

Is it possible that the dealer gave you the pump belt for the mower with the 72 inch deck and not the pump belt for the mower with the 60 inch deck. About 2 inch difference in length and the 72 is listed first in the parts manual.

So are we talking about two different engines, or something else. It makes it sound like the same engine was repaired or replaced and now that engine has failed. or are they two different engines with different issues.

Looks like Stanley/black and Decker is at is again with the purchase agreement of Excel Industries(Big Dog and Hustler) for $375M cash.

I just changed that last week, No I don't want a new air filter. Dang dealers always trying to cheat me out of my hard earned money.

Grass buildup on the blades, burnt spot on the belt, something jammed into a pulley groove will all cause shaking. Need to inspect everything. But could also be something going wrong with a bearing or pulley and would require dealer intervention.

I have seen my share of carbs that looked like that come through the shop over the years.

I would suspect he was having a cold start issue. Most likely the choke wasn't closing completely. I am interested in how he connected the primer bulb to a carb with no provision for a primer.

@StarTech MTD I would say from all the plastics pieces that bolt to the steel deck. May be cheaper if somebody could find the MTD part number of that rear axle. My guess is 611-04144B $22.95.

My suspicions is that you don't have 12 volts to the fuel solenoid while in the crank key position. Could of missed a wire or wouldn't be the first key switch that I have found failed.

Spring subs to 583433101 Washer subs to 583437501 Both show out of stock at my parts supplier.

Throw it in the ultrasonic cleaner for a couple days and it will be just like new.

For $115 I think I would make other arrangements

The same thing is going on in every industry in the country. parts and complete equipment are on backorder with everything blamed on Covid. I have waited months for parts to fix mowers that have been down since March. I waited 11 months for a missing $6 part for a new out of box never...

The difference between the 163 and the 190 is roughly 1 HP. Is that enough difference to make a difference.

First thing to check is to remove the OHV cover and set the intake to .003-.005 and the exhaust to .005-.007 keeping in mind that the intake valve is the bottom valve when looking down from the flywheel side of the engine. After making the adjustments turn the engine over by hand while watching...

Look like 581009201 may be the same wheel in black and is available.

Inspect the deck drive belts. Chunks missing from the belt will cause clattering due to the tension idler pulley waving like a flag every time the narrow belt spot goes around a pulley.

That electric switch is both a safety switch for starting, as well as for engaging the electric clutch take a look under the rear of the mower and you will see a pulley with the belt going up to the deck. That pulley has and electromagnet attached to it that engages when the switch is popped...

Sounds like the christmas tree style fasteners They can be quite stubborn and may have to pry them out.

Here is the reply I got from partners referring the missing diagrams HI, There are several older specs, this being one, that were prior to our internal system and used graphics and lists from parts manuals therefore we did not have access to the images. The system is working correctly as...

The deck engagement is an electric clutch. the problem could be related to a faulty reverse safety switch. Some mowers will shut off the deck instead of killing the engine when in reverse. And then kicks the deck back in when going forward.

From what i gather from another forum is there is there is a button on the left lower rear of the mower on the transmission that has to be held to move the mower. Can be hard to locate and is in a depressed area This link to a sister site to this forum may help...

@StarTech I have sent a request over the missing SV730-0033 in the dropdown parts list, but haven't seen any of the missing diagrams as of yet, but kohlerplus also has issues with lacking of diagrams, so they may be the same engines in both databases. I don't see a ACR either but the SM list...

@StarTech There is a SV730-0033 which doesn't show up in the drop down list on the new Kohler parts site if you input the spec number by itself Works with the entire SV730-0033. Will show on the kohlerplus site by spec number only. That engine would have compression release on the cam.

With that engine I would say there is a very good chance that you are dealing with a blown head gasket.

See if this looks right

With the seat switch disabled, and the parking brake off the mower would think somebody was in the seat driving the mower. If that is a Gravely then move lever out to lock position switches. Just parking and seat switch for operator presence.

Actually in this case it wasn't related to chain tension. The problem was a 20 inch narrow safety bar that allowed enough side flex to derail the chain if side pressure was exerted on the rear handle when felling. People tend to either push down on the rear handle or pull up on the handle...

But even with the signed release the shop could still be liable if your crankshaft breaks and the blade cuts off your neighbors leg. My liability insurance had to pay a claim a few years ago because a guy was cutting a tree down and when he pulled the saw out of the cut the chain came off and...

Because crankshaft straightening was very common, you can create stress fractures in the metal from fatigue that could later break and cause property damage and ;personal injury, and so it is recommended to just replace the crankshaft or replace the mower because people especially technicians...

I suspect the yellow gunk is actually oil mixed with condensation(water)

part number 597126

Remember when the poulan policy for warranty was "We don't pay technicians to exchange products, We don't care what it cost just fix it." So you would do a $178 warranty claim on a $149 saw and would get paid. Then a few years back :Poulan changed the policy to require pre-authorization for...

Technically still have it sitting in the bucket in the corner. And had to deal with a mess after somebody put slime in the tube on a rider and then it leaked out of the tube into the tire, squirted out of the valve stem hole into my face when I tried to air up the low tire.

Came with a Tecumseh push mower engine to tear down and reassembly, A flywheel remover/knocker, a flywheel holder if I remember correctly and maybe a few other small engine tools.

Get on mtdproducts,com and do a search for dealers in your area. They can warranty your Craftsman mower. You shouldn't be paying for what sounds like a warranty issue. Other than the pickup delivery fee in some cases the repairs should be covered. It may not be the alternator or what we...

And if you haven't already done it replace the spark plug. After 23 years in this business one thing that I have learned is NEVER trust a spark plug. Just too many odd issues that related back to faulty spark plugs.

Blount purchases Omark which was the original company in 1985 and then Blount was acquired by Lehman Brothers Merchant Banking in 1999, was taken private in an all cash transaction by American Securities and P2 Capital Partners in 2015 and now sold to Platinum Equity.

We can now throw Oregon in the mix with their sale to Platinum equity.