Recent content by ILENGINE

I would highly suspect that the parking brake is stuck in the on position. Will need to look/feel around under the side of the hydro to locate the brake mechanism and push/pull the lever to get it to release. Follow up may require removing the brake assembly from the hydro so you can free up...

Basically you need something with an electric motor that you can plug in, and then spin to create a small amount of power for the genset windings to pickup and bring up to the correct voltage. Any electric motor when spun becomes a small generator.

The basic acceptable failure rate is around 1% for all industries, which includes appliances, tractors, automobiles, computers, etc.

Last year the dealer replaced the electric clutch and pto switch because the pto kept kicking out, and would start and stop at randon while mowing.

Worked on a customers Cub cadet last month that was having a similar issue, and found that the wires to the reverse safety switch were shorting out. And in his case the RMC wouldn't engage.

So now after throwing the kitchen sink at it, can you supply us the model and serial numbers from the tag under the seat so we can go look at a wiring diagram to help diagnose this issue.

You are right about the 21 and 28 series engines. Those engine have been around since the early 1990's and a lot are still running the original cams and several that have never had the valves adjusted outside of the occasional head gasket. When the 31 series came out in the early 2000's is...

I am curious of what the repair failure of the OEM Briggs camshafts are . Has anybody experienced repeat failures with the same customers mower. Or is it more of a "one and done". It seems like a lot of the ACR fail and lots of camshafts get replaced but in the large scheme of things I...

Just rare for break flywheel keys on any engine used on a rider due to the belt drive acts as a shock absorber preventing the suddent stop that kills the keys.

Labor in my area runs $70-150.

Didn't happen to bump something with the shift lever did you . I have seen this issue with the shifter being off a gear and not going into reverse because the shift lever has been bent back causing the selector to be off and not having enough rear travel to go into reverse.

Just complicates the wiring but some sort of momentary switch to ground the coil is all that is needed.

Correct, because if the bolt breaks off trying to remove it, you will have to replace the mandrel because the chances of removing the broken bolt are very very low.

Thanks from one vet to another

My average repair bill this year has exceeded $350 with several going into the $600 range.

Looks like he said 30 thousands not 3 thousands, but as you stated 10 thousandths would be the correct air gap.

Does it have spark.

There are two different deck configurations depending on serial number of the mower. Since 1 shows 3 different idler pulleys, but one of the 3 subs to the same as another so basically making it 2 small and 1 large. Now I was looking at the deck rebuild kit and shows the GY20996 for the...

Sorry Star I don't

I went with the test light because I knew most people have digital meters, and the sample rate isn't fast enough to pickup the glitch voltage.

In my case I don't take plastic. Cash or check only.

But what can happen is things change while being delivered to the dealer for work. Bouncing down the road can knock things loose and cause issues that are beyond the control of both the customer and the dealer.

Received my April backordered NGK BPR4ES plugs on Friday at 1 PM and by 4 PM were sold and now waiting on more. That gasket that Taryl was talking about the V-Twin briggs I have on backorder currently with an ETA of August.

@hlw49 Shop labor rate is about level with every other shop in the area. The extra gross is translating to extra net income at least on the business books, but the checking account shows something else.

So he will close his shop when he retires at some future unknown date that could be 10 years from now. But other than that several of us techs are in that same mindset. Can't get parts, backorders for months, even on simple things like spark plugs. And what appears simple for a quick...

I suspect that when the key is shutoff it is sending a very brief 12 volts through the kill wire to the coil which is instantly killing them. You can disconnect the small wire on the starter solenoid and then connect a test light between the disconnected coil wire and ground and then start...

Hydraulics can normally run 100 degrees above air temperature.

All of the lawnmower formulated oils are high zinc. So Briggs, Kawasaki, Honda, Kohler oils are high zinc, along with the aftermarket oils sold by Stens, and Kinetix oils, The Rotella gas rated oils may not be high zinc but the diesel rated oils are. Are they needed. Not really.

New valve will still have to be lapped into the valve seats or the seats recut. And then the valve stems will need to be grind off to set the proper clearances.

Is the grass not being cut at all on those strips, or is it being cut but not the same height as the outside blades.

I have a customer on his third pump. Typical symptom is one wheel will start to slow down and not pull when hot. And then will reach a point that it doesn't pull at all. And it is always the right pump that fails. The pump and mating surface will both be scored. And repair parts are not...

Being that age of engine when was the valves regrind/lapped and the clearance reset. The old L series Briggs engines will wear the face of the valves to the point that will float the valves.

And if the OP has the dual pump he better be sitting down and prevented from fainting when he sees the price of that pump.

Very possible.

My suspicions are that it failed from lack of lube and when one rod broke it interferred and broke the second rod. Or they both broke from lack of lube and both seized and broke about the same time.

Take the valve cover back of and take the plug out. Now turn the flywheel by hand and watch the bottom valve which is the intake. As you turn the engine the intake valve will close and then should bump open slightly just before TDC. If that bump doesn't happen then that would indicate that...

Several factors can contribute to engine noise and the muffler is only one aspect. The cooling fan design can increase noise as well as the engine ducting. Then depending on if the internal gears are straight cut or helical can all effect how loud the engine is.

I suspect that is what he is referring to And as you know a weak battery on Kohler can cause the starter to turn but not enough to kick the gear up the worm drive.

And you looked at everything except the a poor battery connection or a failing battery. The chattering is normally a sign of the voltage dropping below a point that keeps the starter solenoid engaged and then when the solenoid temporary disengages the voltage rises re-engaging the starter solenoid.

Item 11C https://www.partstree.com/models/216112-0110-e1-briggs-stratton-horizontal-engine/air-cleaner-exhaust-system-0/

I think it is a level point. There is no really good way of knowing if it is doing damage or not. Only way that would be proven is if somebody oiled one part on their mower and left the same part on the same mower dry and see if there is a major difference. And if that part lasted longer was...

If you previously used Lithium soap based grease it will not be compatible with the Polyurea.

If you previously used Lithium soap based grease it will not be compatible with the Polyurea.

Really no maintenance on that style of brake. From the diagram doesn't even look adjustable.

If it has set that long I wouldn't be surprised if the fuel lines have dry rotted and have broken in the tank.

First thing, slightly overfilled oil will not harm the engine. When they come in 1-2 quarts overfilled then that may be a concern not 8 ounces And if you had to find oil on the engine with a flashlight I would say you are looking really hard, which I can say could be a concern, but just call...

The only governor adjustment is more or less static adjustment. The engine speed changes are done with adjusting the tension on the governor springs. And most likely there are two springs and if they are not adjusted correctly could cause a surge.

The surge could be related to the different carb passages that are responsible for different speed functions.

For most applications unplugging the kill wire and then not having spark with a known good plug is a bad ignition module. But for Honda testing you should have 1.0-1.2 ohms on the primary winding and 10-12.8 Kohms on the secondary winding. But I would of disconnected the kill wire tested for...

Worked on a cub cadet shaft driven with a Vanguard horizontal that needed carb work. 4 hr to R-R the engine plus do the carb work. Years before that worked on a White Grazor mower which is a front deck mower with the opposed twin briggs mounted under the seat in the belly. 5 hours to R-R...

Lets start with the actual model type and code of the briggs engine. so we can see what you are looking at. Some of the Briggs push engines have two governor springs and if they are not set correctly will cause surging. But that surge symptom you are referring to is normally due to a carb...

Kawasaki like other engines do need valve adjustments. The seafoam may not fix the issue but is worth a shot. It could help. What I have seen in some cases is a partial clogged jet that will run fine at just below full throttle, but will surge at full throttle. So there is possibility of a...

So the next step would be to remove the engine cover/blower housing and unplug the ignition module. Put the cover/starter back on and recheck for spark. If you have spark then need to check the wire and the engine kill switch. If no spark then the module has failed and will need to be replaced.

Some of the hydrostats have an internal wet disc brake. Here is the parts diagram for your hydro https://tufftorq.ordertree.com/model?modelId=897&brandCode=TTQ Have to click on assembly and hit parts to get the diagram

It wouldn't hurt to do the purge a few more times just to get out any encapsulated air.

You mean you actually get Sunday off. I spend this morning taking care of a local farmerswhose seed tender wouldn't start and they can't load their planter without. it. Symptom was they had ran it out of gas, refilled it, and then it wouldn't restart. They got is running temporarily but then...

Check out page book page 78 or pdf page 81 in this manual for how to remove the insert. how to put it back in is a couple pages later. I use the old insert still attached to the bolt to drive the new insert back into place, because I have had issues with the recommended driver mushrooming the...

definitely lacks information as far as charge pump orientation. Just says to make the pump cover and the pump housing prior to disassembly so you get them reinstalled in the correct direction. Would be nice if they had a graph for the pump units. There is one for the integrated units for...

I think we are on the correct track. Need to turn the pump cover around on that one pump so both cover indents face the same direction. The indent will face the same direction because the pumps themselves are flow opposites

Remove the spark plug and have somebody crank the engine with the plug connected to the wire and the plug grounded to the engine and check for spark. If that checks out reinstall the plug and put some fuel into the carb intake and see if it will start.

I would interpret 0300 as March 2000.

Let us know. Just be aware that if you don't have pictures of the charge pump covers from both pumps they may face opposite directions from each other when installed on the mower.

I am talking about this Installation is directional

For speed the self threading bolts are the fastest and tend to somewhat self lock into place. Also certain engines have hidden mounting holes so can't use bolt and nut setups. Tapped threaded holes can be just as good, but somethings need to be backed up with a nut to lock the bolt in place...

Briggs, Kohler, Honda, Tecumseh, MTD Branded engines. So I have done a few. The issue with the rattle gun especially with the self tapping bolts is they don't really cut threads as much as Pressure form them into the aluminum. So it is better to take them slow and turn each a little at a...

Just had a thought when I went back and reread your OP. You said that you overhauled your pumps. Did you remove the football shaped cover with the oil pump in it. If so it could be possible that they have been reinstalled 180 degrees from original which will prevent proper purging because...

All are good considerations except the rattle gun.

Leaks don't work well on a suction line.

I have mowers that come into the shop from the late 90's with those style of drains that Startech recommended and the still don't leak. Mostly seen on mowers with Kawasaki engines

They are pre-adjusted. And the gasket set, float valve, and the adjustment screw cost more than a complete carb.

The mandrels use sealed bearings. And the truth is your greasable mandrels also had sealed bearings, and the grease fitting is a feel good attempt for people that want to grease their bearing even though for the most part the grease never enters the bearing.

So we have a Cub Cadet electric start push mower with one of several hundreds engines scattered over several brands and you want us to guess what could be wrong. A model number of the mower and the model numbers from the engine would be a good starting point.

Could be worse. That part could of got wedged between the flywheel and the ignition module and broke the module mounting post off of the block.

So a wire holder that connects to one of the starter bolts wasn't re-installed and got stuck to the flywheel magnet.

And being 33 inch with 11 hp I would bet on one of the 25 series engines being it.

As long as it doesn't leak and doesn't get bumped to the open position while the engine is running.

All will work. Black pipe is normally for Natural Gas or Propane. Galvanized more for water and stainless for caustic materials. But since there is no pressure all are find. I normally use black pipe.

Have you tried putting a small amount of fuel into the intake and trying to start it. If it starts and then dies then you have a fuel delivery issue which could be something as simple as the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb not working. If it doesn't start then maybe look more into the...

If you are talking about the nut that holds the spindle pulley on it is 85-90 lb/ft

I have had a couple that I have ran at idle for a few minutes doing the purge with the frothy oil, and I will shut it off and let the air settle from the oil and then purge again. Sometimes it takes a few times. Especially with separate pumps and wheel motors with new hosed. That is a lot of...

What until you wrap a 1/2 mile of temporary phone line in the rotary cutter spindle

If running fine and mowing level I wouldn't worry about it and just use it.

What you are seeing if the normal behavior of those drain valves. They have a bad habit of leaking to the point of destroying engines when they come apart while running. And the hex has a bad habit of hitting the frame when you try to tighten them. In the long run you maybe better off...

I have never seen a star shear off the shaft to protect the mower. Never happens and the shaft and the blade normally get bent.

This should answer all your questions about certain features on rotary push mowers. Link to the federal CFR part 1205 https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-16/chapter-II/subchapter-B/part-1205

If the cylinder is egg shaped a ball hone will not remove the out of roundness. I would recommend more of a normal cylinder style hone. But without out knowing how out of round or how much taper the cylinder has honing maybe a waste of time.

Looks like the cylinder wall in the first picture either has something stuck to it or delaminating. Whatever it is could of broken loose and got stuck in between the piston rings and caused the scoring. Have you taken on of the rings off and slid it into the cylinder to see what the ring gap...

Most likely you won't find them because most coils on small engines are either a work or not work. Unplug the kill wire no spark with known good plug, coil gets replaced. Without proper testing equipment you will not get accurate readings because of the hall effect trigger. And in some cases...

Pump hoses connected to the correct places.

Washing by itself isn't really the issue. Pressure washer can drive water past seals and into bearings. Also water can enter non sealed electrical connectors causing corrosion. And the deck wash attachment is like you said for the most part worthless and can cause more harm than good. And...

By my calculations you have a blade tip speed of 19,400 fpm which is slightly above the maximum allowed under safety standards of 19,000 fpm True but in the case of a rotary mower blade tip speed requirements will override max engine rpm, so even if the engine is rated at 3500 rpm blade tip...

If you are talking about the hydrogear oil change kit. The pump in my opinion is slow for refilling but does the job. If you have a expansion tank then dump the new oil in and and then remove the top fill hole on the hydro and let the oil run from the tank into the hydro, and when the hydro...

Here is the pulley he is rebuilding https://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-cadet-commercial-756-3115 I suspect that the pulley is been oversized due to pulley wear or even maybe heat from the damaged bearings. So may have to bite the bullet and replace the pulley so the bearings will fit...

And customers want an estimate prior to doing repairs. And the key switch is damaged and the replacement they supplied when the mower was dropped off doesn't appear to be the correct one and starter solenoid is sticking at times which has damaged the starter, the motor is lose and doing the...

I don't see much of the EFI stuff. And from my understanding you have to have a tiny scan or the Briggs diagnostics software to clear codes. I can only find one service bulletin tied to your engine and it relates to poor performance and the P0131 and P0174 codes. I am thinking it could be a...

The Intek V-twin doesn't have the crossflow heads so the intake should be the top valve with the compression release on the #2 exhaust

That system is classic to a dirty carb. More specifically the idle circuit in the carb has a restriction preventing proper fuel delivery. Need to remove and clean the carb and install a carb repair kit or replace the carb depending on price difference.

Maybe a bad batch of filters. Had issues with some Oregon Kawasaki style filters a few years back were the last 4 filters in the box started leaking after a couple hours of use. Have had issues with Kohler filters being able to be removed with two fingers after being torqued to the factory...

Maybe a picture or two would help. May have to play with resizing to get the system to accept it.

Actually Heet is Methanol Or Wood alcohol with other additives.

Need more information that you provided. All we know from your post is it is an engine.

That is the mixture adjustment screw. I wouldn't mess with it unless you plan on replacing the carb because it is designed to break off of tampered with. And I would check into just getting a replacement OEM carb before messing with it. Just did one a couple weeks ago and the OEM carb from...

Double check you serial number but they are item 25 on this diagram https://www.partstree.com/models/lhp19ka465-exmark-46-lazer-z-hp-zero-turn-mower-19hp-kawasaki-sn-600000-669999-2006/motion-control-group-14/

This manual may help you out. And it sounds like the ignition module codes will also set fuel injector codes. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1723973/Briggs-And-Stratton-Vanguard-810-Efi.html

More HP or Torque and a better blade may not cut any better than your have now. I have a 72" mower connected to a 45 HP 4 cylinder diesel. And if the grass is more than 6 inches high I have to slow to about 2 mph or mow it twice with it.

Without torque, HP means nothing. And you are getting hung up over numbers for the most part don't vary enough to be able to make a difference. And a third factor that can eat up any additional torque, or HP produced by the engine. And that is air flow dynamics of the deck, blade interaction.

I suspect that there is corrosion blocking the flow passages that feed pressure changes to the unloader valves. With the unloader out look inside the pump. There will be a hole drilled into the side of the threaded or press in area where the unloader sits. That passage is most like...

.003-.005 intake and .005-.007 exhaust keeping in mind that the intake is the bottom valve because of the crossflow head design

Good points. A lot of the issues stem from the progression of the ignition systems over the years. From the ASAM to the DSAM to the DSAI to finally MDI. The ASAM uses a different flywheel then the DSAM which is different that the fixed timing ignition. Basically they have a different key...

Same here except I have the Big Red 3 ton

What model and brand of engine do you have on the Scag.

Water in fuel tanks and tanks rusting out was happening in the 70's prior to widespread use of ethanol in fuel. People would add Heat to their fuel tanks in the winter because the water was freezing and preventing fuel flow to the carb on their auto's

Thanks for the update. I was kind of making a somewhat whitty guess and nailed it. Actually I have seen the solenoid short out or the wire cause a short and cause issues.

Does the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb click when you turn the key from off to on. May have to put hand on fuel solenoid when key is turned on to feel plunger motion. The second question if the first one is fine. Is the gas actually into the carb fuel bowl on the carb.

Thanks for the update.

Engine is EFI so the fuel pump, ignition modules, fuel injectors , timing is all controlled by an ECM.

The culprit is most likely something to do with the seat switch or the wiring, relays etc for the seat switch

The DSAI system is a fixed position module so no air gap to set. And the DSAM system required 12 volts at the module to operate, but can unpin the ground wire from the module and test.

I would be very suspicious if that is an actual OEM part are a chinese knockoff posing as an OEM part

Yep. Unless they are rusted out to the point of paper thin and can't get metal to stick to metal they are repairable.

For mower batteries I would choose either 10 or 6. 50 amp for car batteries. People say to best connect to 2 amp and slow charge it, but they can't answer the question about then connecting it to the 15-20 charging system on the mower. The battery doesn't know the difference between a...

Mower model number would give us something to compare against. But with the MTD 5/8 or 21/32 pto belt the inside flat is fairly wide. Also most wider than some outside flat sides of some other belts. So they may be runnng two flat pulleys in that area due to the inside V is wide enough to...

Being a 92 model engine. If you open one of the valve and have one closed can you turn the closed valve with your fingers. I normally would put my thumb on them and try to rotate If it rotates then it isn't sealing and will need the clearances reset. The Briggs flathead or L head engines are...

I am also wondering if the regulator is the scapegoat and the intermittent short is someplace else like the fuel solenoid on the carb.

Part of the issue may be his 4 pulleys since the illustration and the IPL both show 5 pulleys. Crankshaft, 2 pump, one fixed idler and one tension idler pulley.

A short that is overloading the charging system will burn out the regulator. Also if the engine has the 15 amp charging system it is a half wave rectifier. Which means the B+ terminal is linked to one of the stator wires. So a shorted stator will also cause the fuse to blow.

The belt diagram is on page 44 of the owners manual, and that model calls for the 5100614 supercede to 84009006 belt

The Briggs Vanguard is 8.5:1 Stihl, Husqvarna, Dolmar/Makita all have products in the 10:1+ category. The Kohler Command twin since it has a minimum compression of 160 would be in the 11-12:1 range.

I guess it comes down to what you consider high compression 9:1, 10:1 or more.

Just dropped of 10 gallon last week, and already have another 8 gallon collected.

If the fuel has water in it, at that point it is ethanol free. Because the water has captured the ethanol and removed it from the equation. So their 87 with ethanol is now 85 octane.

VP racing small engine fuel is 94 octane https://vpracingfuels.com/product/4-cycle-small-engine-fuel/?c=232 Trufuel says theirs is high octane with several references to 92+ https://trufuel50.com/ Aspen fuel says theirs is also 92+ https://www.aspenfuels.us/? So if high octane is bad for...

Rotate the engine until one of the valves on a cylinder is mostly to fully open and then adjust the opposite valve on that cylinder. Repeat for the other cylinder Your engine uses .004-.006 for both intake and exhaust