Recent content by Gravelier

Some PTO clutches have a spacer washer that is between the end of the engine shaft and the part that holds the clutch to the shaft. You can remove the bolt and the part without dropping the clutch off the shaft. Remove the spacer and reassemble. Some instructions state that the clutch will...

an old rule of thumb is to have a thickness equal to the bolt diameter for threads in steel. The same rule for aluminum is 3 times the bolt diameter. The metal available for threads in the aluminum hub is limited. The torque isn’t an issue. He has already shown that fine threads have sheared...

I’m thinking heat is the only solution. You probably have some corrosion that has the impeller locked to the shaft. Your savior is that aluminum expans at twice the rate as steel. Also putting the heat on the impeller is only going to expan the shaft by transfer of heat from the impeller, so at...

It’s a mechanical advantage. Think of it as an incline slope. A finer thread is a more gentle slope and a coarse thread is a steep slope. It’s easier to push something up the gentle slope/more distance with lessor effort. However, more threads, less metal left. Weaker to resist shear.

The finer thread has an advantage to give more pull/push. However thats not your issue. You sheared the metal, so you pushed too hard. A coarse thread doesn’t remove as much metal so you have more left to resist shear. Question. Is the impeller made of aluminum.

I think coarse thread. There’s more metal left to shear if it strips. I’d also soak it with penetrating oil; I’d put a bunch of heat on one side then cool it off; and then do it to the other side. If there’s corrosion, you’re trying to break it loose. When I get ready to tighten the bolt, I’d...

I have several tap and die sets. The one that is from HF I only use to chase or clean up threads. I don’t feel it’s strong enough to cut new threads. If I need to cut new threads (tap or die) I use my old craftsman set. Best of luck.

You said that you encountered resistance after threading in the 7/16-20 bolt a couple turns. Then you were able to force a couple more turns before encountering high resistance. Have you tried running a tap into the hole to see what comes back with the tap? If you are getting 4 turns into the...

Well, to answer a couple questions on my Dixon Kodiac. I had complained about the engine huffing or puffing back out the carb. Someone had said I needed to adjust the valves. I had downloaded the tech manual to see if there was adjustments that could solve my problem. The manual says that this...

I have a Dixon ZTR 60” Kodiak mower with a 25 hp Kohler command pro engine. I bought it a couple months ago and was told it is a 2009 model. I can’t find any tag showing model or serial number. I’m looking for a wiring diagram. Some diagrams that I have found show a circuit breaker. Mine does...

For what it’s worth, I have a summer home on a lake and slid my dixon cone drive into the lake. I needed 3 extra people to get it out of the water. I switched out the tires for ATV tires. I need to be conservative on the turns or I burn the grass. Other than that, I’ve had no repeats. I can back...

Up date. As I have dug deep into the Kohler tech manual on my engine I believe I have isolated the problem. Previous owner had installed an aftermarket carb on the engine and it’s not the right carb. I need to find the right carb. The search has begun.

Thanks everyone next question: Where can I find information on how to set the “valve lash”. Should it be set on a warm or cold engine.

I’m embarrassed to say that my compression tester is a HFT. That said and taken into consideration, both cylinders were 68 psi.

I have a Kohler command pro CV730S. It is burping back the carb (puffs of gas vapor coming out the carb) at idle. Seems like a valve problem but it is supposed to be hydraulic valve lifters. No adjustment. loses power under load in heavy grass and uphill. But not every time. I did a governor...