Recent content by GearHead36

What makes you think I don't have years of experience? I've been mowing my yards since the mid 80's. You should stay done with topic. Permanently. You are absolutely ignorant on the topic. Or you're trolling, because you're giving the exact opposite advice that matches reality.

Why the defensiveness? Was my comment some sort of personal insult to you? I don't see lawn services any more, other than the one that does my neighbor's yard, which is pretty flat, so someone else will have to answer your question. I have both types, and there's no comparison. I have a bank...

Here is an example of what a steering wheel ZTR can do. I'm not sure about this one, but mine is rated for 20 deg slopes.

If you're mowing across a slope, the steerable front wheels offer lateral grip, which helps keep the mower from sliding down the hill. With a lap-bar ZTR, the caster front wheels offer zero lateral grip... all lateral grip comes from the rear wheels. As for going straight up & down hills, the...

I would get a steering wheel ZTR. I have one, and I got it because they were supposedly better on slopes & hills. They absolutely are. I still have a lap-bar ZTR, and it doesn't hold a candle to the steering wheel machine on slopes & hills. Unfortunately, Cub Cadet is the only mfr making them...

The Hydro Gear manual for my ZT-3400 calls for 20W-50, and an oil change interval of 400 hrs. For a K46, I wouldn't go more than 200 hrs between changes.

This. The hydrostat pedal is basically a variable gear ratio. Pushing it harder doesn't produce more power. If on flat ground, it will result in more speed, but less torque. Climbing steep hills with a K46, I wouldn't push that pedal more than half way. That will result in less stress on that...

I asked Grok about long term (a season or more) effects of blade sharpness. Here's the reply, ### What longer-term observations and studies show The immediate difference (clean slice vs. ragged tear) compounds over a season: - **Turf health and appearance**: Repeated mowing with dull blades...

True, but everyone may not know that.

It was in post #7. Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FHB6B4YM It's made for testing airflow in HVAC ventilation systems. But it's a manometer, and works fine for measuring crankcase vacuum. However, be sure to use the average function, and let it average for about 30 seconds. Without...

With all that stress on the transmissions, I'd be very diligent on keeping up with fluid changes. I'd also make sure to blow them off with compressed air every year to make sure dirt buildup didn't cause overheating.

I went to Home Depot, and bought some rubber stoppers of various sizes. Then I found the stopper that fit in the oil dipstick tube. Then I drilled a hole in the stopper just big enough for one of the small tubes that comes with the gauge I linked to. The DTI-33 gauge is good, too, but it's over...

I'm not a commercial operator, so I don't mow when wet. My biggest problem is dust. To the point that I bought a respirator, which I love. I no longer have to hold my breath while mowing. I'd be willing to try my mower on a wet hillside. Just not with the prospect of sliding into a lake, pond...

Not sure I'd recommend red Loctite. That's the permanent stuff. I'd go with blue Loctite.

According to the manual for my Kohler Confidant engine, "A partial vacuum should be present in crankcase when engine is operating. Pressure in crankcase (normally caused by a clogged or improperly assembled breather) can cause oil to be forced out at oil seals, gaskets, or other available...