Recent content by Elkins45

I drove to Indiana with my brother to be in totality.

Something else that occurred to me is that the design could be improved. The front bolt is at least an inch longer than it needs to be because it has to go through a spacer so the return spring has something to hook onto. You could remove the spacer and spring and use a shorter bolt, which would...

There’s a thin wall version that only requires a 3/8 hole but I thought there would be enough meat around the hole to use the larger one. I’m used to tapping steel so it was almost alarming how easy it was to tap the hole. Imagine how much better it would be if the inserts were installed at the...

It occurs to me that a smart fella might make backing those bolts out and giving them a light coat of anti-seize a part of his annual maintenance routine.

Back in business! Drilled and tapped: Insert installed: Reassembled and adjusted: I replaced the other bolt with a stainless one, but if I ever have to remove it again I'm just going to drill for an insert too.

I’m a little worried about how deep I will need to drill to install the insert, but I‘m hopeful than even if I break through the case the insert will fully seal the hole. That’s one reason I decided on an insert rather than a Heli-coil.

There isn’t an extractor in the hole, just a tiny bit of the old screw. The clearance bit for the insert should remove it completely.

I'm trying to decide if this is a compliment or an insult.

That’s what I’m planning to do. Edit: I’ve decided to drill it and tap it for a threaded insert. That way in the future it will be steel on steel.

Well, I broke it off so I tried to remove it with a LH drill bit and broken screw extractors. The drilled-out stub is still in there. I think I need some better broken screw extractors.

I can’t get enough of a grip on it to turn it out. I’ve soaked it in Kroil for a week but my vice grips just twist on the shaft. I tried jamming two nuts and turning it off with a wrench but it stripped the threads. I‘m starting to think I just need to cut it off flush and use a LH drill bit.

The brakes don’t work on my new used mower with a Peerless transmission. Turns out the pins are frozen with rust, and so was the longer of the two bolts holding it in place. I thought it was turning but it was just the head twisting off. This should be fun. I’m going to remove the bracket and...

I’m amazed they have a complete unit listed for sale. I thought this model was long out of production. I’m going to try adding a lube port before replacing it. From they way it sounds it can’t hurt anything.

The Spicer 4360-140 CH transaxle in my old Craftsman rider is making a whole lot of noise. It dates to 2003 and is the used unit I bought when the original failed. I have two questions: 1) Is a Spicer 4360-197 a direct replacement? I can get a new one at a reasonable price but obviously It’s no...

Every time I drive past a hardware or power equipment store I see rows of riding mowers sitting out in the elements. I know the engines are relatively protected from water but what about the electronic components? I’m specifically thinking about ignition switches and electric blade clutches. I...