Recent content by cmrho

Yeah, I'm sure the B&S harness would've worked just fine. But I probably would've have to do just as much work as I did, I think. Tracing the wires back to the terminals, figuring out which ones go to which on the ignition switch, etc. Because the sight of the large bundle of wires was...

As for the PTO in reverse, there are no toddlers on my property. I actually look at where I'm driving when I back up. I'm good with that. Nobody wants hard-earned experience from others for free. At least nobody that understands the give and take of this world. You provided some insight...

Easier? I'm not sure. It should've worked with the current harness and switch. I wired the engine-side connector exactly the same as in the old engine. But it didn't work. After installing a separate starter solenoid wire, the PTO clutch wouldn't engage with that switch. I'm not sure a B&S...

I appreciated your assistance earlier in the thread. Your assumptive arrogance is certainly not appreciated now. I would've happily paid $100 to have this fixed by a 'pro'. I called 3 different shops. None of them would touch the electrical system. The mower isn't in an unsafe position. The...

Ok, final post, because I have it working. The issue with the engine cutting out after 40 seconds was in the PTO engage/disengage switch. Something in the switch was killing the engine even though it was disengaged. I put that switch completely out and put in a rocker switch to engage the...

Ok, I got the engine running by using a separate start switch to energize the starter solenoid, and cutting the harness off the old engine and wiring to the new one. It runs perfectly for 38-43 seconds. Like clockwork. Every time it hits that time range, the engine cuts out. Any idea what could...

I get it. But some people like love doing this type of stuff. Yeah, we screw things up sometimes. But a lot times we don't. When we do, we learn from it, and it makes us better. I don't mind paying someone to do work. But if there's a challenge and I'm able, I'll try it first.

Well, I'm at my wit's end. Nothing is making sense. I suspect there's a kill switch somewhere that I don't know about. But I'm not getting any current through any of the wires coming out of the switch when in the on position. I might throw in the towel and just buy a new mower. Anyone want to...

Did as you said. Nothing is making sense. Even with the seat switch and brake switch activated, I'm getting no current on any of the wires coming off the harness in either the on or start position. But weirdly, I get current on a few of them when the key is completely off. I am completely stumped.

Great tips. Thanks!

Thanks for this. I'm not an electronics technician by training, but see what you're talking about. So this means that the fuel solenoid needs to be jumpered to the alternator correct? So when the engine is running, the solenoid activates?

Thanks all. I cut open the harness on the CV730 and did confirm what y'all said. There are 2 red wires to the carb sol. One appears to be activated at the same time as the starter sol (so when the key is turned to the start position). But then that wire goes neutral when the key goes back to the...

It says Craftsman model 917.275901

Replied to main thread but I did what you said: Ok, I took the blower housing off the old CV730 and matched it to the mower-side harness: Harness connection - blue-red -----> Engine connection (no wire) Harness connection -black -----> Engine connection (white - alternator) Harness...

Ok, I took the blower housing off the old CV730 and matched it to the mower-side harness: Harness connection - blue-red -----> Engine connection (no wire) Harness connection -black -----> Engine connection (white - alternator) Harness connection - red -----> Engine connection...