So I got the old valve keeper installed and had trouble getting it to run. I set the valve lash 3-4 times at .005 both valves. I must not be savy enough to get it right the 1st time.
Anybody want to share their process for setting valve lash on a OHV please do so.
I let it sit for 3-4 hours...
I redoubled my efforts and searched the area where the keeper flew into..and I found the original keeper. It fits the valve perfectly. The original does not have the projections, whoever suggested that those needed to be filed or dremel-ed away was correct. I am going to use the original and...
No it will not fit into the smaller hole outside of the head…it is just too small of an opening. If you see the photo the placement of the smaller hole on the keeper it is not allowing the full 4.8 mm circumference valve to pass into it.
I do not know who I could check with at Kawasaki to...
Correction: the most narrow part (the gate way between the larger outside hole and the center hole)
of the center hole is 4.1 mm not 5.1... If it was 5.1_it would fit in I think
No it will not fit into the smaller hole outside of the head…it is just too small of an opening. If you see the photo the placement of the smaller hole on the keeper it is not allowing the full 4.8 mm circumference valve to pass into it.
I do not know who I could check with at Kawasaki to...
I am attempting to repair an old Ferris 36 inch walk behind. It has a Kawasaki FC401v engine. I removed the head and found both push rods not in contact with the rocker arms, and that the exhaust valve was stuck. I removed the head and removed the exhaust valve cleaned up the valve shaft and...
Thank ms to you all for your input. I was hoping that given the good condition of the piston & rings and the cylinder, I would be able to replace the broken rod and be back in business. Then I noticed the scoring on the crankshaft from and lid. I knew I should get input and advice looks like...
Here are some photos of the upper bearing surface on the crankshaft and the damaged cast aluminum bearing surface in the lid. As I think I previously mentioned I have not disconnected the blade clutch and transmission pulley or removed the engine in order to remove the crankshaft from the...
I will do that later this afternoon. I put the engine back together so I would be able to remember how every thing went together. When I was posting the photos off the shattered connecting rod I was kicking myself for not taking photos of the lid and crankshaft
Thanks to everyone for your input. This is one heck of a mower with a cast aluminum deck and is in great condition.
The concern that I have with the crankshaft is scoring not on the rod journal but at the top of the crank where it passes through the lid. Of course the lid bearing is just a...
I am working on a John Deere JX75 a 21 inch self propelled mower approx 25 yrs old it has a Kawasaki FJ180V-AS11 engine. The connecting rod broke. When I opened up the engine I found the cylinder and piston and rings to be in great shape. The connecting rod journal on the crank looks good no...
yes it is at least 30 years old. The piston and rings as well as the cast iron cylinder sleeve look great. I have not pulled the crankshaft completely out of the engine so I have not seen the lower bearing surfaces on the crankshaft or the sump/bucket look. Also I haven’t been able to...
I have a JX75 with a broken connecting rod. The piston, rings and cylinder look great. The upper bearing surface on the lid of the engine and the top of the crankshaft that passes through the lid/ bearing are both scored. I am asking for input as to how smooth both surfaces need to be…and how...
I am having no luck pulling a Honda CGCV190 flywheel. I have tried a 2 leg puller with out any success. I am thinking that arms on my claw type puller squeezes the top of the flywheel and is not pulling straight up enough. I have ordered a 8 inch puller that gas straight arms and will allow...