Oil Capacity ?

I use the Kawasaki 10W-40 Oil in my CV20 Kohler. No problems. It looks like some of the engine manufactures are going to a higher multi viscosity oil especially in the summer heat to lessen oil consumption. Do you know what the W stands for?
 
txmowman said:
Yes, most Kawasaki engines will use around 15-20ccs per hour.
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Interesting -
My service instructions council that the use of synthetic oils will increase oil consumption.

I have always used single weight (30) mineral oils (getting harder to find & more expensive) and so far do not need to top up between oil changes. :devilish:
 
Skippydiesel said:
Interesting -
My service instructions council that the use of synthetic oils will increase oil consumption.

I have always used single weight (30) mineral oils (getting harder to find & more expensive) and so far do not need to top up between oil changes. :devilish:
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I would love to see the science behind that.
 
txmowman said:
I would love to see the science behind that.
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No science, just history from me - Single 30 grade/weight oil was the universally recommended oil for small motors for all but the last 10 years or so. Never had a problem with it.
In fact multigrades were considered to be "to good" in that it was thought they might polish the cylinder bore causing excessive oil consumption even reduced compression.
Then the multigrade oils started to creep in, followed by the semi and then full synthetics. To the best of my knowledge there was never an explanation for this change. Some suggestion of synthetics being more stable at high temperatures - this may be true but does that make them better than straight 30? If better in what way? eg does your engine - deliver more power, last longer, cost less to run - I think not.
At least one of my service manuals, using an ambient temperature chart, recommended at lest 3 -4 diffrent weight oils, usually starting with 30 and ending with full synthetic 10W-50 (or similar) with the "Caution" that oil consumption would be higher with the full synthetic oil. :devilish:
 
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One reason for multi grades is that they are detergent oil where most straight 30 are non detergent. None detergent allows the waste particles to settle out of the oil where detergent oils suspend these particles so an oil filter can filter them out. Otherwords no oil filter non detergent oil, Oil filter detergent oil.

Now if I remember synthetics are made using natural or liquid petroleum which oil operations just burn off the natural gas as a waste product of oil extraction. So it reduce the released CO2 levels. Plus it is more durable. Just needs a zinc additive or moly additive to reduce wear even further. Moly is actually very good when used in older vehicles. Example is my S1500 that was getting to have low oil pressure <30 psi around 300K miles. Now it has >55 psi and its at 350K. Moly actually fills in those wear scratches to a point.
 
Skippydiesel said:
No science, just history from me - Single 30 grade/weight oil was the universally recommended oil for small motors for all but the last 10 years or so. Never had a problem with it.
In fact multigrades were considered to be "to good" in that it was thought they might polish the cylinder bore causing excessive oil consumption even reduced compression.
Then the multigrade oils started to creep in, followed by the semi and then full synthetics. To the best of my knowledge there was never an explanation for this change. Some suggestion of synthetics being more stable at high temperatures - this may be true but does that make them better than straight 30? If better in what way? eg does your engine - deliver more power, last longer, cost less to run - I think not.
At least one of my service manuals, using an ambient temperature chart, recommended at lest 3 -4 diffrent weight oils, usually starting with 30 and ending with full synthetic 10W-50 (or similar) with the "Caution" that oil consumption would be higher with the full synthetic oil. :devilish:
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With all due respect, you need to brush up on your oil knowledge. Things have changed.
 
txmowman said:
With all due respect, you need to brush up on your oil knowledge. Things have changed.
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True my friend - Everyone has moved to the far more expensive synthetic oils - Why?

If a straight 30 did the job effectively for 70 years + what improvement does a synthetic multi grade bring to the engine?

I can see there is a benefit, in multigrades, for those living in cold climates (snow blowers etc) but I live in Australia. There is no winter snow, grass growing/mowing, so multi grades have little attraction.

As for synthetics being less likly to break down under high temperature conditions - what are we talking here, oil temperature above 130C? - I keep my engines free of chaff - oil temperature will max out at 100C on a hot day, well within mineral oil capabilities.

As far a I can see, the oil changes are mostly to do with fashion/marketing - profits.

Eventually I will have to give up my straight 30 - not because the alternatives are better but simply because of the increasing difficulty in finding it & the price when I do.

If you have factual evidence as to the benefits of multigrade synthetics, for small air-cooled engines, do tell. :devilish:
 
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