Ok, it's been 5 yrs but only 27 hours of run time since my John Deere X300's Kawasaki engine's last oil change. QS 10W-40. The book says to change yearly regardless of hours run. My bad. Should I do the regular oil change by letting the engine heat up 1st or maybe add some kind of cleaner to the mix? Good idea to follow that up with a 2nd oil change after maybe the 1st few hours? Thx.
No Oil Change In 5 Years: Kawasaki 17HP V-Twin. Now what?
- Thread starter MrBatter
- Start date
Don't be too hard on yourself. You are no difference that most mower owners. That is why Kawasaki changed their owners manuals to changing oil annually. Trying to increase the margin of error. But, owners still ignore this as well. At least you own your error, great job for that. Many owners and dealers try their best to make it the engines fault.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hello M.,
How many total hours are on this machine? Your post states 27 hours since the "last oil change"?
Warm it up good then change the oil and get that old oil out of it. Run it a few hours with normal use and then change it again. After that you should be good to go.
It helps to mark your calendar ahead for your next oil service. I usually plan mine for the end of each cutting season.
How many total hours are on this machine? Your post states 27 hours since the "last oil change"?
Warm it up good then change the oil and get that old oil out of it. Run it a few hours with normal use and then change it again. After that you should be good to go.
It helps to mark your calendar ahead for your next oil service. I usually plan mine for the end of each cutting season.
Sounds good. I've been told to add a cup of ATF to the new oil to help break down any deposits. Not sure if that's a good idea.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hello M,
Oil is made by refineries. The base oil product does not have problem, but the "additive package" in the finished oil product eventually oxidizes and the additive settles to the bottom of the container.
Old quarts of oil are nice for "collector's" conversation, but I do not recommend using it especially in a modern vehicle.
Adding ATF is typically used by some (reckless) people as a "cleaner" for very old engines because ATF has aggressive detergents in it. Personally, I do not recommend ATF in any mower equipment engine.
Why? During the life of a typical air-cooled engine, it will develop wear deposits that settle in the bottom of the crankcase sump. This stuff (wear deposits) stays dormant, and it is meant to stay there.
Problems with engine wear will quickly escalate if any detergents are added to the engine oil. This wear deposit gets softened up and circulated with the oil and basically grinds the engine moving parts
Oil is made by refineries. The base oil product does not have problem, but the "additive package" in the finished oil product eventually oxidizes and the additive settles to the bottom of the container.
Old quarts of oil are nice for "collector's" conversation, but I do not recommend using it especially in a modern vehicle.
Adding ATF is typically used by some (reckless) people as a "cleaner" for very old engines because ATF has aggressive detergents in it. Personally, I do not recommend ATF in any mower equipment engine.
Why? During the life of a typical air-cooled engine, it will develop wear deposits that settle in the bottom of the crankcase sump. This stuff (wear deposits) stays dormant, and it is meant to stay there.
Problems with engine wear will quickly escalate if any detergents are added to the engine oil. This wear deposit gets softened up and circulated with the oil and basically grinds the engine moving parts
Makes sense, AD. Yes, it sounded a bit "reckless" reading the advice to add ATF. I'm betting a couple of oil changes, somewhat back-to-back, should get the X300 in pretty good shape. That, and doing yearly changes.
Absolutely!