Check the plug wire. A lot of them are carbon track core meaning there is a carbon coated string in the center. If the cap is mis-crimped on the string over time it becomes unreliable and just stops conducting. Had this issue with a Kawasaki vertical twin. One side was intermittent then just quit. Replaced the cap with a screw on NGK replacement. LB01EP
engine problem
- Thread starter regeland
- Start date
Hia
Had a similar problem a few years ago, tracked it down finally to the coil.
Then proved it by heating the coil up with my hot air gun (paint stripping air gun). When the coil had time to cool , the mower started faultlessly and ran for ages. I was told it was most likely condensation.
Whatever the reason, replacing the coil sorted the problem.
Hope you manage to resolve the issue quickly.
Had a similar problem a few years ago, tracked it down finally to the coil.
Then proved it by heating the coil up with my hot air gun (paint stripping air gun). When the coil had time to cool , the mower started faultlessly and ran for ages. I was told it was most likely condensation.
Whatever the reason, replacing the coil sorted the problem.
Hope you manage to resolve the issue quickly.
Have had
This happens sometimes when the Low Oil Level safety triggers
Have had a couple bad coils. Intermittently would warm up and short out. It was awful to troubleshoot. But that’s what it was. Good luck!
Your magneto is bad. When it gets hot it breaks down. A fairly simple fix. Get your Model, Type, and Code information and go to Amazon. The part should be under $40 even if you want the genuine factory article or about $20 for a Chinese knock-off that will probably do just as well. The replacement is an easy afternoon job for anyone with a basic tool set. I don't remember the exact specification, but you'll want to be pretty careful setting the air gap. It's been a couple of decades since I shut the shop down. Should be available with a Google search as long as you have the Model, Type, and Code number.
like most said...change the plug first...clean the grounding surfaces between the coil and the engine mount...id also test the coil resistance...positive to the plug boot and neg to the external metal fork of the coil...resistance ohms should be between 2.5k to 5k ohms...anything above or below this range is bad ....
AND it could be as simple as the gas cap can't breath as well. The carbs are cheap and easy to replace. I'd try it with the gas cap loose first and if that doesn't fix it buy a new carb. Then from now on at the very least add StaBil at the 2 year rate to ALL your gas and preferably run ethanol free.
My bet is one of these two things will fix it!
if the engine runs for 5 minutes then dies after heating up...the carb is fine...the coil or grounding is an issue along with a possible gas cap vent issue...if you test the coil resistance and its good...gounding or gas cap is an issue. .if the engine stopping is an inconsistant time then debris in the carb...fuel line...or gas cap vent is a issue...AND it could be as simple as the gas cap can't breath as well. The carbs are cheap and easy to replace. I'd try it with the gas cap loose first and if that doesn't fix it buy a new carb. Then from now on at the very least add StaBil at the 2 year rate to ALL your gas and preferably run ethanol free.
My bet is one of these two things will fix it!