Why wont my Yard Machine tractor start? Could I have a bad ignition switch?

E

eller63

Forum Newbie
Yard Machine mtd 16.5 hp tractor mower 13a0695G062/B&S 16.5 hp 42a707 2238e1

Stopped running 2 weeks ago, added new magneto/coil. ran fine. Struggled to start today.
disconnected ground from magneto/coil, it started ran for 5 minutes backfired then died. wont start again
 
First question is do you have spark, With and without the ground wire attached to the module. If you have spark, then try putting some gas into the carb, and see if it will start, and run or run shortly and then die. Let us know and then we will have a better direction to go.
 
eller63 said:
Yard Machine mtd 16.5 hp tractor mower 13a0695G062/B&S 16.5 hp 42a707 2238e1

Stopped running 2 weeks ago, added new magneto/coil. ran fine. Struggled to start today.
disconnected ground from magneto/coil, it started ran for 5 minutes backfired then died. wont start again[/QUOTE


If you have a multimeter, test your battery to see if it is even dead. If it needs charging, charge it and see what happens.
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"First question is do you have spark, With and without the ground wire attached to the module. If you have spark, then try putting some gas into the carb, and see if it will start, and run or run shortly and then die. Let us know and then we will have a better direction to go."

I disconnected ground - put ignition swith in run position, disconnect plug/laid it on engine head, had son sit/push clutch/turn key. Got a very faint (redish yellow) spark (not blue as one would expect). A spark is a Spark!!

What now?
 
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Try putting some gas in the intake and see if it will start and then die or keep running. Just to be sure, connect the positive lead of a volt meter to the ground, and the negative to a good frame ground, and turn the key on and off several times just to make sure you are not getting stray voltage to the module. Any voltage, even momentary indicates a bad key switch, and will toast a module in seconds.
 
ILENGINE said:
Try putting some gas in the intake and see if it will start and then die or keep running. Just to be sure, connect the positive lead of a volt meter to the ground, and the negative to a good frame ground, and turn the key on and off several times just to make sure you are not getting stray voltage to the module. Any voltage, even momentary indicates a bad key switch, and will toast a module in seconds.
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Positive lead of meter to ground (on the magneto)?

negatave lead to frame steel(?)

stray voltage to module(which module?/how would I recognize "stray" voltage?)

Thanks
 
Let me rephrase, Positive lead to kill wire coming from ignition module, negative to frame. All it takes is a blip of a few volts, even momentary. one of those little voltage indicator bulbs will work also. If it lights or even blinks, replace the key switch.
 
ILENGINE said:
Let me rephrase, Positive lead to kill wire coming from ignition module, negative to frame. All it takes is a blip of a few volts, even momentary. one of those little voltage indicator bulbs will work also. If it lights or even blinks, replace the key switch.
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Thanks Much !!!

OK - I am at my wits end !!!

While I was waiting for a response, I started following the Kill wire circuit in effort to find a break (or something). Found no obvious issues. Got to the ignition switch and found that while taking the top half of the rider apart (to access wire harnesses), 2 clusters fell from the plug that enters the back of the ignition switch (yellow and green wires separated).

Went an purchased a new ignition switch - The mechanic told me the color codes (I am good on that now). Put everything back together. STILL WONT START !!!!

A couple of times it tried to start and choked out just as I release the key so - because of that - I think the Magnet/coil is good as well as the new ignition switch ...

What am I missing here ? could the gap between the magneto/coil be off (I was told I could use a piece of alluminum foil or business card to gap it)?

Thanks
 
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eller63 said:
Thanks Much !!!

OK - I am at my wits end !!!

While I was waiting for a response, I started following the Kill wire circuit in effort to find a break (or something). Found no obvious issues. Got to the ignition switch and found that while taking the top half of the rider apart (to access wire harnesses), 2 clusters fell from the plug that enters the back of the ignition switch (yellow and green wires separated).

Went an purchased a new ignition switch - The mechanic told me the color codes (I am good on that now). Put everything back together. STILL WONT START !!!!

A couple of times it tried to start and choked out just as I release the key so - because of that - I think the Magnet/coil is good as well as the new ignition switch ...

What am I missing here ? could the gap between the magneto/coil be off (I was told I could use a piece of alluminum foil or business card to gap it)?

Thanks
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Update !!!

Performed the test with the voltmeter (as suggested) on the new ignition switch - no current flow noticed (not even a blip).

Regapped the Magento using a business card, change spark plugs

It Started and ran for about 5 minutes then it died again

Could this be a heat related problem ?
 
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