Raptor SD54

[djdicetn]

I was advised to use SAE 30 period by dealer.In terms of oil filter I'm going with Kawasaki brand even though expensive.I'm sure there are many differing opinions about this topic.I finally got the expansion tank at the right level,added about 6 ounces:thumbsup:.

I hear ya....I sure hope user L454S doesn't "regret" going to synthetic so quickly. Most users here with ZTR experience will recommend waiting "at least" 50 hours(until the engine has been completely broken in) before changing to a synthetic oil. Then, there's always a possibility that it could "complicate" engine work under warranty if the dealer has an issue with going to synthetic at 6 hours:0(

 

[L454S]

I hear ya....I sure hope user L454S doesn't "regret" going to synthetic so quickly. Most users here with ZTR experience will recommend waiting "at least" 50 hours(until the engine has been completely broken in) before changing to a synthetic oil. Then, there's always a possibility that it could "complicate" engine work under warranty if the dealer has an issue with going to synthetic at 6 hours:0(

I'm sorry, but that is the most 40yr. old bad info I have seen posted on the internet in a while. First what is the difference in engines between a ZTR and a regular mower? You are running the engine at full throttle right out of the gate right? Metallurgy has changed a lot over the last 40 yrs. as relates to rings, pistons, and cylinder wall composition, as has oil chemistry. The lines between syn. and conventional are very blurred. Lots of engines delivered today with syn. in the crankcase.

Not trying to talk you into anything, go ahead and "break in" yours for 50 hours or so. It will be fine......mine too

 

[djdicetn]

I'm sorry, but that is the most 40yr. old bad info I have seen posted on the internet in a while. First what is the difference in engines between a ZTR and a regular mower? You are running the engine at full throttle right out of the gate right? Metallurgy has changed a lot over the last 40 yrs. as relates to rings, pistons, and cylinder wall composition, as has oil chemistry. The lines between syn. and conventional are very blurred. Lots of engines delivered today with syn. in the crankcase.

Not trying to talk you into anything, go ahead and "break in" yours for 50 hours or so. It will be fine......mine too

I won't "debate" synthetic oil versus regular oil(there have been several "heated discussion" threads on these forums regarding that very topic). I have an opinion and you have one. Thing is I have a 1995 Chevy Z71 with a 350 V8 that I bought new and I have used "conventional oil" for 240,000 miles. Runs like the day I bought it with no major engine repairs and may "leak" a pint between 3,000 mile oil changes. IMHO, conventional oil, changed regularly with a new filter will protect an internal combustion engine adequately as well as any synthetic. BTW, just imagine how much money I've saved over 80 oil changes by not buying the expensive synthetic(yeah, I know the syn lovers go a lot farther between oil changes....good luck with that after a quarter of a million miles). That's my story and I'm sticking to it. I did not "bash" you for your decision, only offered my hope that you don't have engine problems at 40 hours and when Hustler finds out you went with synthetic at 6 hours they don't balk at making repairs under warranty. I still hope that!! No need to dis my opinion...like I said my personal vehicle proves synthetic is not necessary for an extended engine life. When ZTR engine manufacturers begin delivering new engines with synthetic oil in them we can resume this debate and you will obviously be right. Currently, most statements that we both have made are right. The 50 hour break-in before going to synthetic is information I got on this forum from "several" respected users over the last two years(not forty years ago).

 

[Carscw]

I think the word OIL should be banned from this group.

Just use whatever oil you want and change it every week or 50 hours whatever comes first.

 

[RNS]

Guess, I should help out here. I'm a professional performance engine builder. Came on here looking for a good new mower and RSD is one I'm researching. If a motor is built to run with conventional oil at first the cross hatching in the bore will be rougher. If you switch to synthetic to quickly the rings will not be seated and you will get some oil consumptions problems. If this does happen you need to buy a new mower ship me the old one so I can run it on conventional a little long to fix it before putting syn back in and using it if for the next 15 years. If the motor is made to start on syn then the cross hatching will be finer so the rings can seat with the slicker oil. Another thing many might have noticed, but not understand why. It's hard to find thicker syn like 20W-50, unless you order $12 a quart straight 50W Redline to run in your Methanol burning motor. This is because when you go from conv to syn you will go down in weight, so 20-50 would go to a 15-40 or a 15-40 would go 10-30.

 

[djdicetn]

Guess, I should help out here. I'm a professional performance engine builder. Came on here looking for a good new mower and RSD is one I'm researching. If a motor is built to run with conventional oil at first the cross hatching in the bore will be rougher. If you switch to synthetic to quickly the rings will not be seated and you will get some oil consumptions problems. If this does happen you need to buy a new mower ship me the old one so I can run it on conventional a little long to fix it before putting syn back in and using it if for the next 15 years. If the motor is made to start on syn then the cross hatching will be finer so the rings can seat with the slicker oil. Another thing many might have noticed, but not understand why. It's hard to find thicker syn like 20W-50, unless you order $12 a quart straight 50W Redline to run in your Methanol burning motor. This is because when you go from conv to syn you will go down in weight, so 20-50 would go to a 15-40 or a 15-40 would go 10-30.

Thanks for the technical information....I knew there was a reason why so many recommended waiting 50 hours before changing to synthetic, but didn't know exactly what it was.

 

[bricehome1]

Ok, question about the tranny tank, is it the smaller one? What is the larger one for, gas? My smaller one is empty, but I thought I read or the sales guys said dont' worry about that one.. Something just doesn't add up??

Thanks
Ken

 

[JohnCardin]

Ok, question about the tranny tank, is it the smaller one? What is the larger one for, gas? My smaller one is empty, but I thought I read or the sales guys said dont' worry about that one.. Something just doesn't add up??

Thanks
Ken

The opaque transmission overflow tank is under the seat closer to the front of the mower and is ~4"x4" with a round black cap. It should have oil 20w50 up to the cold fill line. You're gonna wanna add oil in there. Add oil, then run it to pull the oil into the hydros. There was a thread earlier about this. I ended up having to put about 4 oz of oil into mine. Others have had to put more.