thanks for the direction here, ill give it a whirle tomorrow morning! ill try to get some photoes up of what ive done too. thanks again.
JD lt 133 w/ kohler cv13s
- Thread starter wantabe23
- Start date
thanks for the direction here, ill give it a whirle tomorrow morning! ill try to get some photoes up of what ive done too. thanks again.
Hello all, thanks for you help, I got the alternator working thanks to ILENGINE, I appreciate your guidance here, and now im changing the battery. I thought that I had it hooked up this way days ago, but apparently now, because it works as it is intended to. Oh and I got some picks.
Here's my mower, its definitively a labor of love, but it is a mutual dependent relationship!
and here is the electrical fuel pump wired up, its only temporary until I know every thing is working and Ill button it up better.
and here is how I ended up wiring up the starter and solenoid.
Now that it is working order hopefully, Ill have to further figure out the fuel problem, as the pump seems to be giving to much fuel, and I use the inline shut off valve to slow the flow untill its right, but I think its going to be more complicated than that, because I think the flow needs to proportional to the engine RPM. Also Im going to try and do some pollishing and try rain-xing my grass shoot, because the grass is always wet and it might help. Also I have a massively cracked hood that hopefully I want to do a major repair on, right now I just lift it off the mower, it just sets on top. Its fun to work on though between work and school.
Thanks again guys Ill try to keep this posted on updates.
Here's my mower, its definitively a labor of love, but it is a mutual dependent relationship!
and here is the electrical fuel pump wired up, its only temporary until I know every thing is working and Ill button it up better.
and here is how I ended up wiring up the starter and solenoid.
Now that it is working order hopefully, Ill have to further figure out the fuel problem, as the pump seems to be giving to much fuel, and I use the inline shut off valve to slow the flow untill its right, but I think its going to be more complicated than that, because I think the flow needs to proportional to the engine RPM. Also Im going to try and do some pollishing and try rain-xing my grass shoot, because the grass is always wet and it might help. Also I have a massively cracked hood that hopefully I want to do a major repair on, right now I just lift it off the mower, it just sets on top. Its fun to work on though between work and school.
Thanks again guys Ill try to keep this posted on updates.
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Re: starter help.
ok well dangit! Got the starter hooked up properly, and it turns over the engine, but it seemed labored yesterday. So i was thinking that the battery was low, so I charged it all last night and its still doing the same thing, and I noticed that when I try and turn over the motor longer (couple of seconds) the ground terminal on the battery starts to smoke (of course I stopped) checked all my connections, wire brushed them till shinny, and still the same thing.
A couple of things come to mind, the starter is dying, or bad battery.
Yesterday, I also tried jumping it with my truck, still seemed the starter was just turning it over slowly. So I thought that something was up with the engine, pulled the plug thought it might have filled up with gas or something, nothing seemed off, not fluid, and then engine turns with my hand, not easy, but I can feel the compression resistance.
So can I plug my truck battery up directly as if it was the mower battery in an attempt to rule out the battery? But I have a feeling that the battery is not my problem, its something that I don't know between the battery and starter and ground terminal. I'm guessing something is drawing to much energy? But how do I narrow that down?
Thanks
Collins
ok well dangit! Got the starter hooked up properly, and it turns over the engine, but it seemed labored yesterday. So i was thinking that the battery was low, so I charged it all last night and its still doing the same thing, and I noticed that when I try and turn over the motor longer (couple of seconds) the ground terminal on the battery starts to smoke (of course I stopped) checked all my connections, wire brushed them till shinny, and still the same thing.
A couple of things come to mind, the starter is dying, or bad battery.
Yesterday, I also tried jumping it with my truck, still seemed the starter was just turning it over slowly. So I thought that something was up with the engine, pulled the plug thought it might have filled up with gas or something, nothing seemed off, not fluid, and then engine turns with my hand, not easy, but I can feel the compression resistance.
So can I plug my truck battery up directly as if it was the mower battery in an attempt to rule out the battery? But I have a feeling that the battery is not my problem, its something that I don't know between the battery and starter and ground terminal. I'm guessing something is drawing to much energy? But how do I narrow that down?
Thanks
Collins
ok, well as it would turn out, I discovered the problem, and it was self inflicted, when I was testing the starter I was using one if its long housing bolts to ground off of, and I forgot to tighten it down, so I think it rattled even looser until the housing became dislodged and it was binding, which made it not happy. So there ya go, love making problems for my self!
I did discover that the fuel bowl solenoid is leaky and it drips directly on the exhaust sooo going to try and fix that before i burn the tractor up and possibly anything else in its vicinity!
I did discover that the fuel bowl solenoid is leaky and it drips directly on the exhaust sooo going to try and fix that before i burn the tractor up and possibly anything else in its vicinity!
Seems that this solenoid is designed to prevent "after fires"... not sure what that is but I think my fix will be to replace it with the older bolt from my other mower, I guess I find out if the threads and diameters are the same!
Buckshot 1
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:smile: Not a reply to your post, but a ? for Rivets, I know on B&S carburetored engines, when going from gravity fed to fuel pump fed you have to change carb seats, is that required on Kohler carbs? Might be the reason he is getting to much fuel.
Buckshot 1
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:smile: 30 ft. lbs. cyl head torque is correct, you stated 4 bolts, there are 5 bolts that hold the head down. Also, check head flatness, Max out of head flatness .003. Why was a new sleeve installed?
Low flow electric fuel pumps could work with the Kohler carbs if they are not mounted to close the the carb. 4lbs. is a bit high for most small engine carbs, as the floats can be too small to shut off that amount of pressure. I really don't like to use them unless I am at least four feet away. I also make sure that I install a new needle and seat to make sure I get a good seal. Simple test is to apply current to the pump and watch the carb air horn with out the engine running. If you see fuel entering the air horn, the seat is not sealing due to too much pressure. PS: The only time I have used electric fuel pumps with a small engine application is, generators and discharge pumps.
Well the original was a pump fed, it was just actuated by the cam, so the pump bolted on the side of the engine, but the newer (used) engine it didn't have that hole on the engine, So electric was next logical option. I did have to mess with the fuel, and ended up buying a low pressure fuel regulator which allows me to run the mower normally, however I have to be careful to shut everything off at once. If I shut the motor off, or it dies for some reason the pump continues to run filling the carburetor to the top! So I have to be careful, because that can cause some other major problems.
I used the mower for one year after I bought it used from a small engine guy, and it seemed to have a loud knocking tapping sound, and I wanted to have the mower for a while. Being a mechanics son, and never having the chance to rebuild an engine thought this would be a fun project. (I have two neighbors that are serious wrench turners too) Got a new oil pan. And also the top of the engine was worn too, where the crank goes through the block (underneath the fly wheel) and that I had no way to fix without getting an new engine, but I wanted to fix it, not get a new one when the other parts were just fine. So I think the newer blocks were sent out with replaceable sleeves and mine being older did not. It was, just solid aluminum,which seemed crazy to me (turns out its normal) because I did work on down hill MTB and they had sleeves/ bushings/ bearings all over the place, and unless it was a hub didn't rotate nearly that fast. So, I got the sleeve and then got the oil pan milled out and sleeve installed for $50 buy this old retired Boeing guy locally. And fitted every thing back together and the only problem was that I didn't catch that little triangle on the piston head for orientation (put it upside down) and the head gasket keeps blowing out. So Ill take everything apart, clean/ reinspect, and then re torque everything and give it a whirl. I know more now and ill check and see if anything is warped and see how it goes.