JD lt 133 w/ kohler cv13s

[wantabe23]

Lets see I bought the mower used, after a year the mower had a knocking sound, I broke down the engine and rebuilt it, new lower, bored out the upper in installed a nice sleeve then put everything back together and then ran into problems with torquing the head down, it seems the specs that I found called for 30 ftlbs on the four bolts in a cross pattern, but it seemed to loose so that there was leakage out the bottom on the mower frame, so I replaced the gasket with a new one, torqued it down a bit more, and still a little leak, so I would start briefly and torque it down bit by bit until there was no leaking, and then buttoned it down and it worked well all season aside from a governor problem. Now this season on the second mow it started to spray gas our again. So what gives, am I not getting the right torque, or do I have a warped surface? I checked all that when I had it apart and it all checked out seemingly. Also ever since I rebuilt it I cant seem to get the governor right, its either working or its revving out of control and I have to bring the throttle all the way down to slow it down, its a constant up and down with the throttle to get it right. Now im no small engine professional as this was my first engine rebuild for combustion, I had my neighbor over seeing it, did a lot of research and stuff and part of it was for fun.
So does anyone have a torque spec that is for sure accurate? I mean 30lbs seems low, as an aluminum bike stem is often torqued to 45lbs. And for the governor, I think its likely something is hung up on the inside of the case maybe? I need someone with experience here to offer some direction. I just not sure if this is something systemic that im overlooking here.

Oh and im new to the forum thanks guys
Collins

 

[wantabe23]

Im looking at this right now, all looks very familiar as i used replacement parts on line for my parts, so this is not new

http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/small...-stx38-13-horspower-inner-governor-issue.html

I do like ereplacementparts listings a bit better, but what the diagram does not show on #13 (governor gear assembly) is the inside of it its conical, and has what looks like a toggle bolt type set up which I presume operates by centrifugal force, but im still not clear on its supposed function. so when the mower runs over a clump of thick grass, the governor increases the rps to accommodate the added stress?

in addition I used this very informative page to help adjust the governor sooo
http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/carbfuel.htm

 

[Rivets]

Maybe this Kohler service manual will answer your questions.

http://www.kohler-engine-parts.opee..._CV11_thru_CV16_CV460_thru_CV495_DATE4_11.pdf

 

[wjjones]

Im looking at this right now, all looks very familiar as i used replacement parts on line for my parts, so this is not new

http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/small...-stx38-13-horspower-inner-governor-issue.html

I do like ereplacementparts listings a bit better, but what the diagram does not show on #13 (governor gear assembly) is the inside of it its conical, and has what looks like a toggle bolt type set up which I presume operates by centrifugal force, but im still not clear on its supposed function. so when the mower runs over a clump of thick grass, the governor increases the rps to accommodate the added stress?

in addition I used this very informative page to help adjust the governor sooo
Information about the Kohler Carburetor, Various Fuels and Fuel Systems

Did you loose the very thin washer that goes under the governor gear, or was it not there?

 

[wantabe23]

Maybe this Kohler service manual will answer your questions.

http://www.kohler-engine-parts.opee..._CV11_thru_CV16_CV460_thru_CV495_DATE4_11.pdf

yes,I used this manual for the rebuild, thank you.

 

[wantabe23]

Did you loose the very thin washer that goes under the governor gear, or was it not there?

no I seemed to get it back on there, however, the governor arm will slide in and out of the block about 1/4 " which seems maybe a bit loose? Ill crack into it on Sunday a bit so hopefully Ill get more info and picks. I think Ill end up taking every thing apart again and checking all the torque specks, and looking at the conical governor gear and see if those metal arms are sticking or something. Ill take picks throughout the process, hopefully a mechanic can give me some tips. I know I did place the piston upside down (didn't see the arrow) So ill remedy that while I'm in there. Any one got tips for taking old gasket off, hopefully it will be easier this time around. I use razor blade.

 

[Rivets]

Please read over the section on governors, pages 5.14-5.15 in the manual I posted. It explains the operation of the governor and how to set it. After you have gone through that section post back any specific questions and I will try to talk you through them.

 

[wantabe23]

ok found a good running used cv13s motor which will bold right on, but there are a few differences, for instance the fuel bowl has the solenoid on the bottom not sure if I care for that (think they leak some times) Also I noticed that the new engine block has the mount for the cam actuated fuel pump, but there is no hole in in the block so cant use the old fuel pump. I was wondering if I could hook up a electrical fuel pump some how? Other than that the engine will buy me time to work on the original motor.
Any direction here would be great!

that's where I was reading that, on the tractorpullingtips.com page

 

[wantabe23]

ok well, got the new motor bolted up, and figured out the fuel bowl solenoid, but ran into a couple of complications. Maybe some one can offer some help.
I got an electrical low flow fuel pump wired up and pumping fuel, (2-4psi) I think, and it seems to flood the motor, so I have to use an shut off valve to slow the flow to not flood it. And my neighbor said that with an electrical fuel pump I need a return line for the excess fuel to go back to the tank, I haven't read anything on this yet. I may be this way in cars but is it necessary with a lawn mower? So as it is right now I can run it like it is but its a bit finicky in my opinion.
Also I switched the starters because I new how to hook up the original one, I only had the ground (bolting the the motor) and a bolt which I hooked up the key actuated power. I was using this but didn't notice that the new engine housing interfered with the top of the starter when engaged, and messed the new one up (got to mess with it to fix it) So now ive got the new starter one (one that came with the motor) and its not the same connections, the new one the electrical motor, and a solenoid on the side, much like a car. I can get the electrical motor to go when I turn the key on, and the solenoid to click up and actuated the gear but when I hook both of them at once. the starter has two bolts off the bottom, and one tab, the tab is the solenoid, and one turns over the electrical motor, whats the other?
A pick would be supper helpful, my grass is getting away from me!
Thanks,
Keep ya posted.

 

[ILENGINE]

That is what is called a solenoid shift starter. the big lead on the solenoid next to the starter motor hooks to the starter motor. the other big lead is the positive battery cable, and the little tab comes from the key switch through the safety switches to the starter, Just treat the wiring on the solenoid, like as if it was a separate solenoid, except there is no heavy wire between the solenoid like on most riders, the solenoid is wired directly to the starter motor.