First make sure the new battery you got is good. After you are sure the battery is fully charged, either after cutting or using a charger, remove the negative cable from the battery and let it sit until the next cutting. If the battery remains fully charged, you have a parasite draw, which can be hell to find, even by an experienced technician. I had one which took weeks to find as it was also intermittent. Ended up being a frayed wire, about a 1/4”, that needed a little TLC to fix the problem. Patience will be your friend if you decide to tackle this type of electrical problem.
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Craftsman YT3000 no start
- Thread starter Willy56
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I just tested the spare white wire, it gets nothing from the test light or meter. Should have done this already
Pulled spark plug and get reading at white starter wire connected to solenoid: 6.9v while cranking.
Then tested power at solenoid positive battery cable: 7.6 v while cranking.
Think I will take a closer look at the battery cable from battery to solenoid....Actually, its tied into the harness, would it be the worst idea to simply try a new cable? I can wire tie it to the original without having to to pull apart the harness
I just tested the spare white wire, it gets nothing from the test light or meter. Should have done this already
Pulled spark plug and get reading at white starter wire connected to solenoid: 6.9v while cranking.
Then tested power at solenoid positive battery cable: 7.6 v while cranking.
Think I will take a closer look at the battery cable from battery to solenoid....Actually, its tied into the harness, would it be the worst idea to simply try a new cable? I can wire tie it to the original without having to to pull apart the harness
New battery time.Testing directly at starter terminal, power to starter is 7.17 volts when turning key.
I will try the battery test thanks.First make sure the new battery you got is good. After you are sure the battery is fully charged, either after cutting or using a charger, remove the negative cable from the battery and let it sit until the next cutting. If the battery remains fully charged, you have a parasite draw, which can be hell to find, even by an experienced technician. I had one which took weeks to find as it was also intermittent. Ended up being a frayed wire, about a 1/4”, that needed a little TLC to fix the problem. Patience will be your friend if you decide to tackle this type of electrical problem.
Curious, if I pull the negative cable, wouldn't I WANT or expect the battery to be fully charged? May I ask, where did you find the frayed wire? I have looked all over and with my visual inspection "seems" ok.
Solenoid sounds bad. Making poor contact not carrying enough current to turn the engine. Or you have a poor connection some where.Turned it over and was getting 7.85 volts and no start. On the second try, the voltage went to 11.1 and it started.
Solenoid sounds bad. Making poor contact not carrying enough current to turn the engine. Or you have a poor connection some where.
This is second solenoid. both this and original check out per the various tests.
Amen to that. I just bought a new battery from O'reallys. Told them to test it first. Test failed. Turns out their tester was worn out with a bad cable. They had another carbon pile tester where it tested good.First make sure the new battery you got is good.
What test is that exactly?This is second solenoid. both this and original check out per the various tests.
You said when you crank, batt voltage drops to 7 volts. No-go in my book.
If your battery drops to 10.5 volts DC or less, either you need a charge or a new battery. That is, if your solenoid and other cables are good.
Get your hands and fingers on the cables. Tug a bit to see if something is loose. Remove all connections, clean or polish them all and reinstall. Make sure you have say 1 volt on one end and that same 1 volt on the other end.looked all over and with my visual inspection "seems" ok.
That second white wire gets plugged into a female plug. You’ll have to trace back to where it comes from and let us know. Yes it should stay charged, then we will know if you have a parasitic draw. Slomo, he has installed a new battery and we know the solenoid is good. If you would read and understand my last post you would know we are trying to see if the new battery is bad. If you read post number 5 you would see his second try got 11+ VDC And the unit is starting now. Your posts are confusing the situation. Willy, when you post back, would you include the model number under the seat. I’m trying to locate a wiring diagram. Fray was under the dash.