Can’t get my 1 year old cub cadet to start

[SeniorCitizen]

With a helper to crank , spark , compression and timing can all be checked close enough to run by removing a plug and grounding it , holding your thumb/finger on the plug hole and watch for spark at exactly the time your thumb/finger is blown from the spark plug hole . If that looks acceptable put about 1/4 teaspoon of gas in the carb. throat so it can be pulled in on suction stroke .
If it has enough compression to start / run it will be real difficult to keep your thumb on the spark plug hole .

 

[1948man]

You really need to start your won post thread. The OP has not been back and probably not many watching.

So you bought it NONE RUNNING FROM TRACTOR SUPPLY FOR 1/2 PRICE? (or was it running and quit you)

Couple tips:
I'm assuming the engine cranks over ok and fast?
Remove the air cleaner and give it a shot of fuel into the carb throat with the throttle set at about 1/2 and no choke. If it's not getting fuel when you give it a prime it will promise to run for little while.
NEXT:
If no promise to start with a prime of fuel, get a spark plug or a spark tester and check for spark when the engine is cranking.
Let us know what you find with the above tests?
If you start a new post come back here and give us a link to your new post.

In answer to your question about the carb solenoid, it should have 12v in all position of the switch except off and sometimes you cannot hear them click.

I really just wanted to ask the carb question first and maybe start a thread if the solenoid doesn't solve things. I just got a thin enough wrench to get it off. Before I bought the tractor, I confirmed it would fire on starter fluid and continue to run if given an occasional puff but it wouldn't continue at all without the puffs. I got several people at the store to confirm that they didn't know about any problems other than not starting. I accept that I am taking a risk and even if I get it running, there may be other problems. I will start a thread if it's not the solenoid. Good to know you can't always hear the click. Thanks.

 

[slomo]

I really just wanted to ask the carb question first and maybe start a thread if the solenoid doesn't solve things. I just got a thin enough wrench to get it off. Before I bought the tractor, I confirmed it would fire on starter fluid and continue to run if given an occasional puff but it wouldn't continue at all without the puffs. I got several people at the store to confirm that they didn't know about any problems other than not starting. I accept that I am taking a risk and even if I get it running, there may be other problems. I will start a thread if it's not the solenoid. Good to know you can't always hear the click. Thanks.

Testing a carb solenoid.

Get a cheap Chinese wrench. Grind the faces down so it will fit to remove said solenoid.

Turn off fuel valve or install one if you don't have one.

Remove solenoid. Watch for a gasket to keep and reinstall.

Key on should RETRACT the plunger tip UP INTO the solenoid body. Key OFF should EXTEND the plunger. Cycle the key numerous times. Make sure wires are connected good to solenoid. Key ON, one wire is battery voltage and other is ground.

OR, if you want trouble free slash never have to worry about THIS part again failing on your and not starting, snip off the plunger. You will have to shut the fuel OFF like 1 minute prior to killing the engine. As in killing the fuel while driving back to the garage.

 

[slomo]

Are you sure you're pushing the throttle control well into the choke zone before starting? I have a Cub with the 25hp K745 7000 series Kohler and this engine seems pretty picky about being choked properly when cold.

Throttle lever goes all the way to the detent, then push a little harder to enter the choke zone.

Why not adjust the throttle/choke cable/linkage?

Adjust it so the choke comes on at 3/4 throttle lever and further. Choke off at 3/4 detent or less. Easy right?

 

[hlw49]

It is really good that you took the time & made the effort to post a reply and I for one appreciate it when others respond
However before you do so it would be really beneficial is you checked what you are posting was factually correct which what you posted is not .

This gets really really boreing .
But once again for those who were asleep during high school science or went to a school that taught creationism & not science
Rust has ZERO effect on a magneto unless it is thick enough to bridge the air gap which is not a problem either because it will be hydrated at that distance off the steel so will flake off the instant the magnet passes by it
Some rust under the the laminations where the coil sits on the posts can add resistance which can affect the timing chip inside but even that is rare .
The rust that does make a difference is when it gets between the laminations and splays them out which if bad enough will reduce the energy in the spark but to do that they have to be a long way apart .

check for rust on the magneto

There is not but one thing that stop magnetism. DISTANCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[1948man]

Testing a carb solenoid.

Get a cheap Chinese wrench. Grind the faces down so it will fit to remove said solenoid.

Turn off fuel valve or install one if you don't have one.

Remove solenoid. Watch for a gasket to keep and reinstall.

Key on should RETRACT the plunger tip UP INTO the solenoid body. Key OFF should EXTEND the plunger. Cycle the key numerous times. Make sure wires are connected good to solenoid. Key ON, one wire is battery voltage and other is ground.

OR, if you want trouble free slash never have to worry about THIS part again failing on your and not starting, snip off the plunger. You will have to shut the fuel OFF like 1 minute prior to killing the engine. As in killing the fuel while driving back to the garage.

Thanks. Getting wrench and shut-off Monday and will check it out.

 

[1948man]

Testing a carb solenoid.

Get a cheap Chinese wrench. Grind the faces down so it will fit to remove said solenoid.

Turn off fuel valve or install one if you don't have one.

Remove solenoid. Watch for a gasket to keep and reinstall.

Key on should RETRACT the plunger tip UP INTO the solenoid body. Key OFF should EXTEND the plunger. Cycle the key numerous times. Make sure wires are connected good to solenoid. Key ON, one wire is battery voltage and other is ground.

OR, if you want trouble free slash never have to worry about THIS part again failing on your and not starting, snip off the plunger. You will have to shut the fuel OFF like 1 minute prior to killing the engine. As in killing the fuel while driving back to the garage.

Fixed. Shut-off valve in and solenoid plunger nipped. The mower runs good. The solenoid might have been okay because I don't think the solenoid fitting is getting voltage. I guess, for now, if that wiring is compromised I can still function but will explore more tomorrow. The battery is low and I suspect it may need to be replaced. It's on the smart charger now.

 

[slomo]

The battery is low and I suspect it may need to be replaced. It's on the smart charger now.

Pull the battery in the fall as well. Take it inside connected to a Battery Tender. Make it last a lot longer.

Glad to hear she is running.

Another fix I failed to mention, was getting a bolt with the same solenoid thread. Use the bolt to hold the carb bowl on. Isolates the solenoid completely but saves it to reinstall after the wires are fixed. Sorry about that. The snip works too. Might get a small after fire though.

 

[1948man]

Uncle Buck!! I missed that one the first time around.

 

[Forest#2]

Now that is funny. I don't care who you are that's funny.
Keep that one in mind when you turn your lawn mower key off at high rpms.
You neighbors will just love you like the kids love Uncle Buck.
Do it at night about midnight. (but immediately hide)