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Can’t get my 1 year old cub cadet to start
#1
J
Jody L
J
Jody L
Won’t start. Gets fuel to carburetor but won’t start. Put a new on on, still won’t start
#2
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
So is this a push mower, riding mower, Z turn, Side by side, tiller, snow thrower, or something else. We are guessing what piece of equipment that you have that won't start. How about providing us with a model number so we can see what won't start
#3
J
Jody L
Kohler 7000 series engine
J
Jody L
Riding mower. 2022 XT1So is this a push mower, riding mower, Z turn, Side by side, tiller, snow thrower, or something else. We are guessing what piece of equipment that you have that won't start. How about providing us with a model number so we can see what won't start
Kohler 7000 series engine
#5
B
bertsmobile1
However before you do so it would be really beneficial is you checked what you are posting was factually correct which what you posted is not .
This gets really really boreing .
But once again for those who were asleep during high school science or went to a school that taught creationism & not science
Rust has ZERO effect on a magneto unless it is thick enough to bridge the air gap which is not a problem either because it will be hydrated at that distance off the steel so will flake off the instant the magnet passes by it
Some rust under the the laminations where the coil sits on the posts can add resistance which can affect the timing chip inside but even that is rare .
The rust that does make a difference is when it gets between the laminations and splays them out which if bad enough will reduce the energy in the spark but to do that they have to be a long way apart .
B
bertsmobile1
It is really good that you took the time & made the effort to post a reply and I for one appreciate it when others respondcheck for rust on the magneto
However before you do so it would be really beneficial is you checked what you are posting was factually correct which what you posted is not .
This gets really really boreing .
But once again for those who were asleep during high school science or went to a school that taught creationism & not science
Rust has ZERO effect on a magneto unless it is thick enough to bridge the air gap which is not a problem either because it will be hydrated at that distance off the steel so will flake off the instant the magnet passes by it
Some rust under the the laminations where the coil sits on the posts can add resistance which can affect the timing chip inside but even that is rare .
The rust that does make a difference is when it gets between the laminations and splays them out which if bad enough will reduce the energy in the spark but to do that they have to be a long way apart .
#6
M
motomike
M
motomike
Are you sure you're pushing the throttle control well into the choke zone before starting? I have a Cub with the 25hp K745 7000 series Kohler and this engine seems pretty picky about being choked properly when cold.
Throttle lever goes all the way to the detent, then push a little harder to enter the choke zone.
Throttle lever goes all the way to the detent, then push a little harder to enter the choke zone.
#7
StarTech
StarTech
And verify the choke is actually fully closing as the cable might need adjusting.
Also when you replaced the carburetor was it OEM or after market?
Also when you replaced the carburetor was it OEM or after market?
#9
B
bertsmobile1
However magnetism is taught in high school ( well it is in Australia, UK, most of the EU )
However egos with Feaces Book accounts post You Tube videos about thinks they have zero knowledge or understanding about then it gets picked up by others because they have not been taught properly to check everything .
Thus urban myths get borne and spread because people do not question what they read or underst the difference between primary sources, secondary sources , tertiary sources & common knowledge the latter of which s rarely true.
Good parents teach their children to read
Wise parents teach their children to question what they read
B
bertsmobile1
To be honest I do have a science degreeI guess I goofed. Wish I was as smart as you .
However magnetism is taught in high school ( well it is in Australia, UK, most of the EU )
However egos with Feaces Book accounts post You Tube videos about thinks they have zero knowledge or understanding about then it gets picked up by others because they have not been taught properly to check everything .
Thus urban myths get borne and spread because people do not question what they read or underst the difference between primary sources, secondary sources , tertiary sources & common knowledge the latter of which s rarely true.
Good parents teach their children to read
Wise parents teach their children to question what they read
#10
F
Forest#2
F
Forest#2
Momma says:
Three things needed for a gas engine's promise to run, fuel, ignition at the proper time, compression.
Give it a manual squirt of prime of gas, if no go check for spark, if no go check for compression.
Let us know which one's are not found and which ones are found.
Three things needed for a gas engine's promise to run, fuel, ignition at the proper time, compression.
Give it a manual squirt of prime of gas, if no go check for spark, if no go check for compression.
Let us know which one's are not found and which ones are found.
#11
J
jmacgreg
J
jmacgreg
I have a 2019 LT2 GX50 and had a similar problem. It was due to a failure of the autochoke solenoid. This has happened twice in two years and causes the engine to immediately flood. The first was fixed under warranty, but the second time would have been on my dime. My "solution" was to buy a generic manual choke kit from a local small engine repair shop and completely REMOVE all of the auto choke mechanisms, including the air vane and solenoid. The dealership told me there wasn't a manual replacement which was what prompted me to go to an independent shop. The installation was not particularly easy and required the removal of the steering wheel and dashboard. I drilled a hole in the blank spot on the dash and installed the pull knob there after attaching the cable to the carburetor choke plate mechanism. When the engine is cold, I pull full choke and the motor starts instantly now hot or cold weather. Frankly, I can't comprehend why Cub Cadet would think their purchasers aren't smart enough to operate a manual choke.
#12
M
motomike
I've got a Cub GX50 also, I'll keep your experience in mind. Thanks.
M
motomike
10-4! I have a manual choke knob on my 22 yr old Murray with a 17hp BS Twin 2 and its worked perfect every time since new!I have a 2019 LT2 GX50 and had a similar problem. It was due to a failure of the autochoke solenoid. This has happened twice in two years and causes the engine to immediately flood. The first was fixed under warranty, but the second time would have been on my dime. My "solution" was to buy a generic manual choke kit from a local small engine repair shop and completely REMOVE all of the auto choke mechanisms, including the air vane and solenoid. The dealership told me there wasn't a manual replacement which was what prompted me to go to an independent shop. The installation was not particularly easy and required the removal of the steering wheel and dashboard. I drilled a hole in the blank spot on the dash and installed the pull knob there after attaching the cable to the carburetor choke plate mechanism. When the engine is cold, I pull full choke and the motor starts instantly now hot or cold weather. Frankly, I can't comprehend why Cub Cadet would think their purchasers aren't smart enough to operate a manual choke.
I've got a Cub GX50 also, I'll keep your experience in mind. Thanks.
#13
F
Forest#2
F
Forest#2
The model, type and code info from the engine would also be helpful so we know what engine you are asking about? Cub Cadet has several different types and models of engines for a Cub Cadet tractor, therefore when people are asking questions about a engine problems they should at the very least list the Make, model, type and code from the engine.
Read post #10 and give us the results?
Read post #10 and give us the results?
#14
D
d18yeager@gmail.com
First I would check and make sure that you're getting fuel it is possible that the chivalry valve in the bottom of your carburetor is not working and without that you will not get fuel into the motor so it will not start I would recommend you try a little bit of starting fluid into the air cleaner and see if it fires that will tell you if it is ignition or fuel
D
d18yeager@gmail.com
Won’t start. Gets fuel to carburetor but won’t start. Put a new on on, still won’t start
First I would check and make sure that you're getting fuel it is possible that the chivalry valve in the bottom of your carburetor is not working and without that you will not get fuel into the motor so it will not start I would recommend you try a little bit of starting fluid into the air cleaner and see if it fires that will tell you if it is ignition or fuel
#15
1
1948man
1
1948man
I'm in the same boat with a cub cadet XT1 LT46 I got from Tractor Supply for half price (it had been returned) because it wouldn't run.. I don't think I'll be hijacking the thread because I seem to have the same problem. Specifically, should I be able to hear the carb solenoid click when I turn the key to the run position or does the solenoid not function until you actually turn the key to the cranking position. I realize there are many things that could be wrong/trashed with this mower but want to rule out the carb solenoid first. 700 Series Kohler
#16
F
Forest#2
You really need to start your own post thread. The OP has not been back and probably not many watching.
So you bought it NONE RUNNING FROM TRACTOR SUPPLY FOR 1/2 PRICE? (or was it running and quit you)
Couple tips:
I'm assuming the engine cranks over ok and fast?
Remove the air cleaner and give it a shot of fuel into the carb throat with the throttle set at about 1/2 and no choke. If it's not getting fuel when you give it a prime it will promise to run for little while.
NEXT:
If no promise to start with a prime of fuel, get a spark plug or a spark tester and check for spark when the engine is cranking.
Let us know what you find with the above tests?
If you start a new post come back here and give us a link to your new post.
In answer to your question about the carb solenoid, it should have 12v in all position of the switch except off and sometimes you cannot hear them click.
F
Forest#2
I'm in the same boat with a cub cadet XT1 LT46 I got from Tractor Supply for half price (it had been returned) because it wouldn't run.. I don't think I'll be hijacking the thread because I seem to have the same problem. Specifically, should I be able to hear the carb solenoid click when I turn the key to the run position or does the solenoid not function until you actually turn the key to the cranking position. I realize there are many things that could be wrong/trashed with this mower but want to rule out the carb solenoid first. 700 Series Kohler
You really need to start your own post thread. The OP has not been back and probably not many watching.
So you bought it NONE RUNNING FROM TRACTOR SUPPLY FOR 1/2 PRICE? (or was it running and quit you)
Couple tips:
I'm assuming the engine cranks over ok and fast?
Remove the air cleaner and give it a shot of fuel into the carb throat with the throttle set at about 1/2 and no choke. If it's not getting fuel when you give it a prime it will promise to run for little while.
NEXT:
If no promise to start with a prime of fuel, get a spark plug or a spark tester and check for spark when the engine is cranking.
Let us know what you find with the above tests?
If you start a new post come back here and give us a link to your new post.
In answer to your question about the carb solenoid, it should have 12v in all position of the switch except off and sometimes you cannot hear them click.
#18
S
slomo
S
slomo
Air, fuel, spark and compression.Momma says:
Three things needed for a gas engine's promise to run, fuel, ignition at the proper time, compression.
#20
F
Forest#2
Maybe in a few days,
but I removed the troublesome Briggs Twin Intek OHV from my Cub with the dual throat Nikki carb that I had to constantly handle gently and fiddle with and installed a really good Kohler engine.
Seems the higher in price that non-ethanol gas gets the more the Kohler likes likes the higher priced gas.
F
Forest#2
Who's next with a broken Cub?
Maybe in a few days,
but I removed the troublesome Briggs Twin Intek OHV from my Cub with the dual throat Nikki carb that I had to constantly handle gently and fiddle with and installed a really good Kohler engine.
Seems the higher in price that non-ethanol gas gets the more the Kohler likes likes the higher priced gas.
#21
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
With a helper to crank , spark , compression and timing can all be checked close enough to run by removing a plug and grounding it , holding your thumb/finger on the plug hole and watch for spark at exactly the time your thumb/finger is blown from the spark plug hole . If that looks acceptable put about 1/4 teaspoon of gas in the carb. throat so it can be pulled in on suction stroke .
If it has enough compression to start / run it will be real difficult to keep your thumb on the spark plug hole .
If it has enough compression to start / run it will be real difficult to keep your thumb on the spark plug hole .
#22
1
1948man
1
1948man
I really just wanted to ask the carb question first and maybe start a thread if the solenoid doesn't solve things. I just got a thin enough wrench to get it off. Before I bought the tractor, I confirmed it would fire on starter fluid and continue to run if given an occasional puff but it wouldn't continue at all without the puffs. I got several people at the store to confirm that they didn't know about any problems other than not starting. I accept that I am taking a risk and even if I get it running, there may be other problems. I will start a thread if it's not the solenoid. Good to know you can't always hear the click. Thanks.You really need to start your won post thread. The OP has not been back and probably not many watching.
So you bought it NONE RUNNING FROM TRACTOR SUPPLY FOR 1/2 PRICE? (or was it running and quit you)
Couple tips:
I'm assuming the engine cranks over ok and fast?
Remove the air cleaner and give it a shot of fuel into the carb throat with the throttle set at about 1/2 and no choke. If it's not getting fuel when you give it a prime it will promise to run for little while.
NEXT:
If no promise to start with a prime of fuel, get a spark plug or a spark tester and check for spark when the engine is cranking.
Let us know what you find with the above tests?
If you start a new post come back here and give us a link to your new post.
In answer to your question about the carb solenoid, it should have 12v in all position of the switch except off and sometimes you cannot hear them click.
#23
S
slomo
Get a cheap Chinese wrench. Grind the faces down so it will fit to remove said solenoid.
Turn off fuel valve or install one if you don't have one.
Remove solenoid. Watch for a gasket to keep and reinstall.
Key on should RETRACT the plunger tip UP INTO the solenoid body. Key OFF should EXTEND the plunger. Cycle the key numerous times. Make sure wires are connected good to solenoid. Key ON, one wire is battery voltage and other is ground.
OR, if you want trouble free slash never have to worry about THIS part again failing on your and not starting, snip off the plunger. You will have to shut the fuel OFF like 1 minute prior to killing the engine. As in killing the fuel while driving back to the garage.
S
slomo
Testing a carb solenoid.I really just wanted to ask the carb question first and maybe start a thread if the solenoid doesn't solve things. I just got a thin enough wrench to get it off. Before I bought the tractor, I confirmed it would fire on starter fluid and continue to run if given an occasional puff but it wouldn't continue at all without the puffs. I got several people at the store to confirm that they didn't know about any problems other than not starting. I accept that I am taking a risk and even if I get it running, there may be other problems. I will start a thread if it's not the solenoid. Good to know you can't always hear the click. Thanks.
Get a cheap Chinese wrench. Grind the faces down so it will fit to remove said solenoid.
Turn off fuel valve or install one if you don't have one.
Remove solenoid. Watch for a gasket to keep and reinstall.
Key on should RETRACT the plunger tip UP INTO the solenoid body. Key OFF should EXTEND the plunger. Cycle the key numerous times. Make sure wires are connected good to solenoid. Key ON, one wire is battery voltage and other is ground.
OR, if you want trouble free slash never have to worry about THIS part again failing on your and not starting, snip off the plunger. You will have to shut the fuel OFF like 1 minute prior to killing the engine. As in killing the fuel while driving back to the garage.
#24
S
slomo
Adjust it so the choke comes on at 3/4 throttle lever and further. Choke off at 3/4 detent or less. Easy right?
S
slomo
Why not adjust the throttle/choke cable/linkage?Are you sure you're pushing the throttle control well into the choke zone before starting? I have a Cub with the 25hp K745 7000 series Kohler and this engine seems pretty picky about being choked properly when cold.
Throttle lever goes all the way to the detent, then push a little harder to enter the choke zone.
Adjust it so the choke comes on at 3/4 throttle lever and further. Choke off at 3/4 detent or less. Easy right?
#25
H
hlw49
H
hlw49
It is really good that you took the time & made the effort to post a reply and I for one appreciate it when others respond
However before you do so it would be really beneficial is you checked what you are posting was factually correct which what you posted is not .
This gets really really boreing .
But once again for those who were asleep during high school science or went to a school that taught creationism & not science
Rust has ZERO effect on a magneto unless it is thick enough to bridge the air gap which is not a problem either because it will be hydrated at that distance off the steel so will flake off the instant the magnet passes by it
Some rust under the the laminations where the coil sits on the posts can add resistance which can affect the timing chip inside but even that is rare .
The rust that does make a difference is when it gets between the laminations and splays them out which if bad enough will reduce the energy in the spark but to do that they have to be a long way apart .
There is not but one thing that stop magnetism. DISTANCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!check for rust on the magneto
#26
1
1948man
1
1948man
Thanks. Getting wrench and shut-off Monday and will check it out.Testing a carb solenoid.
Get a cheap Chinese wrench. Grind the faces down so it will fit to remove said solenoid.
Turn off fuel valve or install one if you don't have one.
Remove solenoid. Watch for a gasket to keep and reinstall.
Key on should RETRACT the plunger tip UP INTO the solenoid body. Key OFF should EXTEND the plunger. Cycle the key numerous times. Make sure wires are connected good to solenoid. Key ON, one wire is battery voltage and other is ground.
OR, if you want trouble free slash never have to worry about THIS part again failing on your and not starting, snip off the plunger. You will have to shut the fuel OFF like 1 minute prior to killing the engine. As in killing the fuel while driving back to the garage.
#27
1
1948man
1
1948man
Fixed. Shut-off valve in and solenoid plunger nipped. The mower runs good. The solenoid might have been okay because I don't think the solenoid fitting is getting voltage. I guess, for now, if that wiring is compromised I can still function but will explore more tomorrow. The battery is low and I suspect it may need to be replaced. It's on the smart charger now.Testing a carb solenoid.
Get a cheap Chinese wrench. Grind the faces down so it will fit to remove said solenoid.
Turn off fuel valve or install one if you don't have one.
Remove solenoid. Watch for a gasket to keep and reinstall.
Key on should RETRACT the plunger tip UP INTO the solenoid body. Key OFF should EXTEND the plunger. Cycle the key numerous times. Make sure wires are connected good to solenoid. Key ON, one wire is battery voltage and other is ground.
OR, if you want trouble free slash never have to worry about THIS part again failing on your and not starting, snip off the plunger. You will have to shut the fuel OFF like 1 minute prior to killing the engine. As in killing the fuel while driving back to the garage.
#28
S
slomo
Glad to hear she is running.
Another fix I failed to mention, was getting a bolt with the same solenoid thread. Use the bolt to hold the carb bowl on. Isolates the solenoid completely but saves it to reinstall after the wires are fixed. Sorry about that. The snip works too. Might get a small after fire though.
S
slomo
Pull the battery in the fall as well. Take it inside connected to a Battery Tender. Make it last a lot longer.The battery is low and I suspect it may need to be replaced. It's on the smart charger now.
Glad to hear she is running.
Another fix I failed to mention, was getting a bolt with the same solenoid thread. Use the bolt to hold the carb bowl on. Isolates the solenoid completely but saves it to reinstall after the wires are fixed. Sorry about that. The snip works too. Might get a small after fire though.
#30
F
Forest#2
F
Forest#2
Now that is funny. I don't care who you are that's funny.
Keep that one in mind when you turn your lawn mower key off at high rpms.
You neighbors will just love you like the kids love Uncle Buck.
Do it at night about midnight. (but immediately hide)
Keep that one in mind when you turn your lawn mower key off at high rpms.
You neighbors will just love you like the kids love Uncle Buck.
Do it at night about midnight. (but immediately hide)
#31
S
slomo
S
slomo
Dude, come on...... That is a total classic. UB is the shiz nit. Those freakin' pancakes were awesome. And that Ford LTD was the star of the show.Uncle Buck!! I missed that one the first time around.