Bolt Threading for Blade Removal

[Overcast451]

I bought a well-used Craftsman Riding Mower last year. It has it's share of problems for sure and no doubt any routine maintenance that ever needed to be done, needs done on this gem!
The blades obviously need sharpened, and I tried moving a couple of them with a ratchet + 9/16 socket. Wouldn't budge at all, so I put a cheater bar on them and pushed them about as far as I feel comfortable with at that moment.

I did a search here, and found a couple of you all could give me a 'good idea' on if the bolts are right-handed or left-handed, possibly.

Specifically the model number is: 917.273050, found it nice and clear on the plate under the seat.
(20 HP Kohler CV20S-65551 I'm pretty sure is what the faded tag for the engine says)

Best I can tell is right-handed from what I have found so far, but thought it wouldn't hurt to ask.

I think I might go get a Harbor Freight impact driver tomorrow as well. I have a good cheater bar, but I think my odds are better of not snapping a bolt with impact, correct?
They are on the second day of an ample PBlaster soak also.

 

[bertsmobile1]

all right hand cut blades have right hand threads
All left hand cut blades have left hand thread
There will probably be an exception, but not on a craftsman

 

[7394]

Spray some good penetration oil around the bolts first,.................. then go get yer impact @ Harbor (giving time to hopefully help things),.

 

[sgkent]

penetrating oil and stop as the bolt seizes up then go back the other way a little and slowly work it out.

 

[StarTech]

Bolt (3/8-24 x 1.25) right hand threading. Image of bolt show is shows it to have a Loctite patch. Why the OEM started using a Loctite patch is not known here.​

 

[ILENGINE]

Bolt (3/8-24 x 1.25) right hand threading. Image of bolt show is shows it to have a Loctite patch. Why the OEM started using a Loctite patch is not known here.​

View attachment 60115

Sometimes OEM's put loctite is the strangest and most inconvenient places. Worked on a brand of chainsaws a few years back that used red heat release loctite on the threads of the clutch that you had to remove to replace the sprocket.

 

[StarTech]

Sometimes OEM's put loctite is the strangest and most inconvenient places. Worked on a brand of chainsaws a few years back that used red heat release loctite on the threads of the clutch that you had to remove to replace the sprocket.

Agree.

Its like the Homelite chainsaw I had to replace the ignition coil on back before 2015 where they use red Loctitle on the screws. I most didn't get the screw out. I had broke off the head of the screw.

 

[ILENGINE]

@StarTech Nothing like red loctite on screws that are secured into aluminum. Can't get it hot enough to release it without damaging other components due to heat sink, or you destroy the fastener trying to remove it, or just pull the threads out of the aluminum case.

 

[StarTech]

Or like the red loctite that Cat wants you to use on their pressure washer pump heads. I had one that I was rebuilding when one of the caps locked in place before I even got it torqued. I ended up destroying the cap to get it off even with me using heat sparely due plastic check valves. And that all brass threads. Ever since I switched to blue Loctite for those caps. Maybe I shouldn't used the surface prep spray with the Loctite.

 

[Overcast451]

penetrating oil and stop as the bolt seizes up then go back the other way a little and slowly work it out.

Awesome, thanks for all the input all! Yeah, they have been soaking in PBlaster for a couple days now. Assuming I can get them to budge at all, I will do that.