alternator id

[SamB]

Alternator ID
I need some help to identify this alternator output. I can't find this particular wiring on the Briggs ID chart. TIA

 

[Rivets]

This manual should help you ID your charging system. https://www.briggsandstratton.com/c...a/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_replacement.pdf

 

[SamB]

This manual should help you ID your charging system. https://www.briggsandstratton.com/c...a/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_replacement.pdf

Thanks, Rivets. I also have the full color diagram page from Briggs, but I couldn't find an alternator pic showing the single yellow wire with white connector going to the regulator/rectifier mounted on the engine. The disconnected red wire went the the harness and connected through the ignition switch to the battery when the switch was in run position. These stator wires and regulator are as the engine came direct from Briggs. No 'creative' wiring has been done. Shouldn't I be getting 12/13 VDC from that red wire coming out of the regulator?

 

[Rivets]

You have a 5 or 9 amp regulator system, page 16 of the manual. White connector was replaced with a green connector, makes no difference.

 

[SamB]

You have a 5 or 9 amp regulator system, page 16 of the manual. White connector was replaced with a green connector, makes no difference.

Thank you, Rivets! That green used to be white connector was throwing me off. Your information is always correct and to be trusted!

 

[SamB]

Thank you, Rivets! That green used to be white connector was throwing me off. Your information is always correct and to be trusted!

This is why my battery charging system wasn't doing what it should. What might cause this meltdown? Nothing has been changed on this mower for 2 years, Now this happened last week, resulting in a no start condition-dead battery

 

[Rivets]

If I could give you a definitive answer to that question I would be relaxing on my dream property in northern Wisconsin. I’ve never been able it was probably caused by $7(=.96@#. Maybe someone else can.

 

[SamB]

Thank you, Rivets! That green used to be white connector was throwing me off. Your information is always correct and to be trusted!

This is why my battery charging system wasn't doing what it should. What might cause this meltdown? Nothing has been changed on this mower for 2 years, Now this happened last week

If I could give you a definitive answer to that question I would be relaxing on my dream property in northern Wisconsin. I’ve never been able it was probably caused by $7(=.96@#. Maybe someone else can.

I had spare stator and regulator from another engine so changed out both, easy job. I'll see what happens next mow. I wonder if an in-line fuse in the regulator output line might be an good idea.

 

[bertsmobile1]

IT would not hurt but it may not necessarily make any difference.
I have seen a lot worse than yours where fuses have not blown
The coils & wires are not designed to run at full output for hours on end .
So if it is running at the full 5 or 9 amps all the time the engine is running the wires will overheat .
Several things cause stator melt downs the most common are below .
1) debris build up under the flywheel causing physical contact between the flywheel & laminations
2) running the mower with too much electrical load such as a short or flat battery
3) wiring fault &/or including bad diodes, failed rectifiers & bad rectifier grounds
4) motor overheating
Of the ones I have replaces , a faulty or flat battery has been the primary cause for the majority of melt downs
And I have seen a lot worse than yours
And FWIW I have has more than one customer refuse to replace a bad battery then expect me to replace the burned out stator as a warranty item.
One even make a claim with the consumer affairs department , it was naturally declined as I always not problems not fixed on my invoices
Their claim was based on "Face book experts" who claimed you did not need a battery to run a ride on mower engine

 

[SamB]

IT would not hurt but it may not necessarily make any difference.
I have seen a lot worse than yours where fuses have not blown
The coils & wires are not designed to run at full output for hours on end .
So if it is running at the full 5 or 9 amps all the time the engine is running the wires will overheat .
Several things cause stator melt downs the most common are below .
1) debris build up under the flywheel causing physical contact between the flywheel & laminations
2) running the mower with too much electrical load such as a short or flat battery
3) wiring fault &/or including bad diodes, failed rectifiers & bad rectifier grounds
4) motor overheating
Of the ones I have replaces , a faulty or flat battery has been the primary cause for the majority of melt downs
And I have seen a lot worse than yours
And FWIW I have has more than one customer refuse to replace a bad battery then expect me to replace the burned out stator as a warranty item.
One even make a claim with the consumer affairs department , it was naturally declined as I always not problems not fixed on my invoices
Their claim was based on "Face book experts" who claimed you did not need a battery to run a ride on mower engine

Thank you,bertsmobile1. Since the stator isn't totally fried, as in a dead short circuit, I believe you may be correct in that it's running at near maximum output at or near 100% of the time. The battery a couple of years old and may be due for replacement. It's been my experience that mower batteries are a short-lived item, unlike auto batteries and difficult to load-test. Also, I shy away from "experts" on facebook. I'll watch a video to see how something comes apart, but most 'advice' is suspect , to say the least and sometimes downright dangerous!

Addendum:
I'm going to replace the existing old battery before Thursday's mow, to be on the safe side, what with the replaced stator and regulator. No point taking the chance of smoking the replacements!