Troy Built 2010 bronco riding mower Problem with speed pedal not disengaging.

[bertsmobile1]

OK
If you are trying to turn a dollar then search the web for the MTD "Must have manual of outdoor power Equipment"
There are 4 volumes and ride ons are covered in volume 2 "Rear Engine Riders & Lawn Tractors
Vol 1,2 & 4 can be found at K & T's web page plus a lot of IPL's and their parts prices are reasonable
Usually with a vari drive system, you start by setting the parking brake
Next is flipping the belt off the rear tensioning pulley # 64
The remove the large drive pulley # 62 as most use the rear frame as belt keepers
Then the top belt usually can be slipped off
Following that you slip the front belt off the variable pulley
Then undo / loosen the 2 clutch pulleys so they will drop far enough to get the belt off them
Last bit is to undo the engine pulley and slide it down as most MTD's use tangs in the frame as keepers for the front belt
Replacing is as they say the reverse of removing

On some the variable pulley mounting has to be loosened so it moves a bit ( not needed to be removed ) as again it runs near the frame to use the frame as a belt keeper

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

The belts were worn so bad it would not move.
It seems to be ok now. It is working properly. The belts were not OEM as stated because I do not think OEM supplies a Kevlar belt. I would not look forward to another 3 hrs. work to replace it again. Worst belt I have ever replaced. No room anywhere it goes over a pully. About 1/8 inch clearance on the centrifugal pulleys and it does not have a bolt bolting the pully on shaft like shown in the parts. I had to remove bolts out of bracket and pry the bracket back away enough to force the belt on pully. It has a shaft that is a washer is welded on the pully side and it is factory welded. It is bolted on from the bottom next to the rear axle housing could not get to it to remove would have had to pull rear end completely out. This one has been a pain.
Since it is working, and I give a warranty on anything I work on I will redo the job if I have too.

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

This belt measured .654 using my calipers. Length was 90 3/4 inches so it was Very close to the (954-0467A) and I agree with you about the OEM belts but when a customer says use aftermarket because of price you either lose the job or use aftermarket. I am not a full shop I do this just to earn some extra to help because I am SS and it does not provide the funds for everything. I am 72 and was forced to retire. I lost all my IRA funds in the 2009 crash so have no choice but to take in work I can get.

How long does your warranty typically last on work you perform for customers? If you are forced to take on most jobs due to tight finances, doesn’t that sort of put you in a compromising position? I make good on the few comebacks I get when it is my fault, but never give a warranty. Just asking. Some of these repair jobs can be a real pain in the butt.

 

[bertsmobile1]

I guarantee MY WORK for 12 months which is the same warranty period on the parts I use
To do this the customer gets an invoice with the WORK I DID clearly described and on the bottom I add the caveats
ie ;- the D130 I have just replaced the trans belt on has the following at the bottom
"steering fan gear worn excessively, gear , pinion & bushes all require replacing , LH front wheel both bushes worn beyond safe limit & will damage wheel , deck cracked - requires welding with brace plates "
The owner is thinking about replacing it with a ZTR so does not want to spend money on it .
This mower was last serviced in 2016 ( I date the filers with a paint pen ) and when I checked the previous invoice it had the same disclaimers on the bottom.
A service is a service, not a repair so when I do one if the owner does not want repairs done I list all that I did not do at the bottom to cover my backside .
IT has served me well over the years .