Toro Recycler: Wife broke the starter... changed it but still wont start. Help Please

[Integraoligist]

Toro Recycler
Manu: 2003
Model: 20016
So at the end of last season the wife decides to mow the grass, which is the first time ever........ anyway gets done with the back, then she says it died for no reason, assumed it was gas, but no there was plenty still in there. Started it and did the front yard and put it away. I go out the next day to clean it off cause i know she did not, I attempt to start it and the starter assembly is broke. So i emptied everything out of it, cleaned it up and waited until now to order a new recoil assembly.

Got it yesterday, installed this morning... and have been pulling the crap out of it. Has a little putter but does not start. Thought i flooded it so i let it sit all day and just got home from work, try it again, and still just a little putter every now and again.

Also, after 1 full pull there is a nice 1/2 pull retract that it like to do now which pull my f-ing arm out of my socket. WTF is this, never happen before, now it is.

Thoughts?

Thanks all!

 

[Carscw]

Ok first thing to do is go do a load of laundry and add bleach to the darks.

I bet it was put up last year with gas in it. So the carb is going to need to be cleaned. First look and see if the air filter is dirty.

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))

 

[Integraoligist]

lol, nice.
Yes gas was still in it. How do I go about removing the gas other then flipping the mower upside down? I already have carb cleaner, but i'm use to cars, not a mower... how do I get to the carb?

Yes the air filter is clean and the oil is good.

 

[exotion]

lol, nice.
Yes gas was still in it. How do I go about removing the gas other then flipping the mower upside down? I already have carb cleaner, but i'm use to cars, not a mower... how do I get to the carb?

Yes the air filter is clean and the oil is good.

The carb is behind your air box probably a few bolts get a proper rebuild kit. Carefully and slowly take the whole carb apart carefully laying the parts out in order you took them apart make reassembly easier. Spray every thing with carb cleaner except the plastic stuff and gaskets especially the diaphram carefully reassemble in reverse order oh and in case I didn't say it enough slow and careful.

 

[chance123]

Toro Recycler


Also, after 1 full pull there is a nice 1/2 pull retract that it like to do now which pull my f-ing arm out of my socket. WTF is this, never happen before, now it is.

Thoughts?

Thanks all!

Look at the blade and see if there is a gouge in it. The symptom you mentioned is that of a sheared flywheel key.

 

[Integraoligist]

Look at the blade and see if there is a gouge in it. The symptom you mentioned is that of a sheared flywheel key.

Ok, there is no gouge in the blade... but it was very loose, you could flop it back and forth, so I tightened it down. Tried to start again and nothing.
What is the flywheel key and how do I know if it went bad?

 

[chance123]

Ok, there is no gouge in the blade... but it was very loose, you could flop it back and forth, so I tightened it down. Tried to start again and nothing.
What is the flywheel key and how do I know if it went bad?

Yes it appears that your FW key "is" sheared. You must remove the starter and everything that covers your flywheel. Then the flywheel must be removed in order to replace the key.

 

[Integraoligist]

Yes it appears that your FW key "is" sheared. You must remove the starter and everything that covers your flywheel. Then the flywheel must be removed in order to replace the key.

Ok so I was able to find the part # 611004 on http://www.partstree.com/ but none of the drawings show the part. Do you know where I can find a diagram with that part so I can see how to remove the flywheel to get to the key?

Also, if this is the "key" Flywheel Key Tecumseh 611004 St445-236
How does it actually shear? I thought you were talking about some type of gear the sheared the teeth off.

Thanks!

 

[chance123]

Ok so I was able to find the part # 611004 on http://www.partstree.com/ but none of the drawings show the part. Do you know where I can find a diagram with that part so I can see how to remove the flywheel to get to the key?

Also, if this is the "key" Flywheel Key Tecumseh 611004 St445-236
How does it actually shear? I thought you were talking about some type of gear the sheared the teeth off.

Thanks!

Well,, when you wrote "
Also, after 1 full pull there is a nice 1/2 pull retract that it like to do now which pull my f-ing arm out of my socket. WTF is this, never happen

Then you wrote:
Ok, there is no gouge in the blade... but it was very loose, you could flop it back and forth, so I tightened it down."

This tells me that the key is sheared. A sheared key alters the engines ignition timing. When the engine kicked back and almost pulled your arm out of joint, the engine wanted (because if sheared key/timing) to run backward. This "kickback" will loosen the blade bolt just like an impact gun loosens a bolt.
Explaining the repair via cyber, is hard and would have to be in stages. Once you get all the covers off the engine and expose the FW, you need to remove the nut or bolt that holds the FW on. Meanwhile get the proper FW key

 

[chance123]

Once you get the fuel tank and engine cover off, you will see the FW. Remove the nut and that cup that is under the nut. If your machine has a FW brake, tie a rope around the bail (lever) up on the mowers handle that you hold when starting. This will relieve the brake tension on the FW. Get another nut exactly like the one that holds the FW on. Thread that nut all the way on, then loosen it about 4 turns. With a pry bar or something similiar, under the FW, pry up while sharply striking the shaft with the nut on it. The nut will protect the threads and prevent the shaft from mushrooming. One good solid hit with a hammer should do it. Remove the nut and FW and you will see the sheared key. When re assembling, use the original nut, and not the sacrificial nut you used when hitting with a hammer.