Stihl MS 250 C-BE Chainsaw Review

[contheon]

Does anyone own a MS 250 C-BE chainsaw? How does the new starting system and chain adjustment system perform in real life?

I'm considering it to replace a 25 year old Wood Boss. But I'm concerned about the durability of some of these new features.

 

[Lawnranger]

I own an MS 250 W/18" bar and really like it. It is not the "easy2start" nor does it have the "QCA" feature. I talked to my local Stihl dealer about the difference between the two and asked if there were any problems with either feature and he said he had replaced only a few of the quick chain adjusters but didn't specify what actually failed. We also discussed how we each felt about the "feel" of a regular chainsaw vs. the easy2start and agreed that we both like the non-easy2start chainsaw. He said Stihl came out with the easy2start feature for people who have bad shoulders and elbows and I said that people who have bad shoulders and/or elbows probably shouldn't be using a chainsaw, for safety reasons. I did have an opportunity to try out an MS 250 C-BE and think the easy2start & quick chain adjust features are great but not necessary for me.

I have owned my MS 250 for about a year now and used it quite a bit. I like the fact that it's light enough to use for limbing and powerful enough for the bigger cuts as well. I purchased an extra chain when I bought the saw and the owner's manual recommends alternating chains and flipping the bar over to get the most life out of the cutting attachment (bar, chain and sprocket). I swap chains every time the chain needs to be sharpened and flip the bar every second chain swap.

I also have access to an MS 361 W/25" bar but rarely use it. The 361 is significantly heavier and I only use it if I have some really big logs to cut. I have found that an 18" bar meets almost all the needs I have for a chainsaw and if a log is larger than 18" I really don't want to lift it. I can always cut from the other side if I need to cut a bigger log but I certainly won't be lifting it.

If you like bells & whistles, spend the extra money, get the C-BE and enjoy it. The MS 250 is a great occasional use/firewood saw with or without the C-BE features and either way you can't go wrong.

 

[contheon]

I have owned my MS 250 for about a year now and used it quite a bit. I like the fact that it's light enough to use for limbing and powerful enough for the bigger cuts as well. I purchased an extra chain when I bought the saw and the owner's manual recommends alternating chains and flipping the bar over to get the most life out of the cutting attachment (bar, chain and sprocket). I swap chains every time the chain needs to be sharpened and flip the bar every second chain swap.

If you like bells & whistles, spend the extra money, get the C-BE and enjoy it. The MS 250 is a great occasional use/firewood saw with or without the C-BE features and either way you can't go wrong.

Lawnranger - thanks for your review. I just sold my Wood Boss and after reading your comments I'm leaning back to the MS 250. I noticed comparing the specs that the MS 250 is 10.1 lbs vs 10.8 lbs for the MS 250 C-BE ... so those extra features add both design complexity and weight.

Without a priming bulb, my Wood Boss would take 6-7 pulls to start cold. How many pulls does your MS 250 take?

Thanks again for your input.

 

[Lawnranger]

Lawnranger - thanks for your review. I just sold my Wood Boss and after reading your comments I'm leaning back to the MS 250. I noticed comparing the specs that the MS 250 is 10.1 lbs vs 10.8 lbs for the MS 250 C-BE ... so those extra features add both design complexity and weight.

Without a priming bulb, my Wood Boss would take 6-7 pulls to start cold. How many pulls does your MS 250 take?

Thanks again for your input.

Two to three pulls on full choke usually makes the saw "burp" (attempt to start) and then I move the multi-function lever up one position to fast idle which opens the choke and another one to two pulls usually gets it running. Since you already owned a Stihl saw, you know that if you pull the starter cord just one more time on full choke after the saw burps, it will flood. If I had a nickel for every flooded Stihl saw that came into my shop, I'd be a richer man.

I was concerned about the lack of a purge bulb on the MS 250 but it hasn't hindered starting in the least. I prefer a lighter chainsaw and when I sold my McCulloch 3214 I replaced it with the MS 250. The 250 is heavier by a significant amount compared to the 3214 but still very easy for me to use. In comparing the MS 250 Vs. MS 250 C-BE, the .7 pound difference and lower cost swung me to the MS 250.

I talked to several professional tree climbers and they both use an MS 180 for the weight advantage. I know the MS 180 is an occasional use saw but the people who do this every day will use it like a pro saw. The cost is low enough to when it wears out you just figure the price of a new saw into the next job. Knowing that some professional tree climbers us the lowly MS 180, I figured a 250 would serve my needs well and it has so far.

My brother-in-law had a Wood Boss and literally wore it out from so much use but he got a smokin' deal on a Jonsered that he is very happy with.

When you buy your new Stihl, make sure to get a 6-pack of Stihl Ultra 2 stroke oil and by doing this you will double your warranty period automatically. A few more pieces of advice are to use 89 octane fuel or higher as recommended in the owner's manual. I use Marine Formula Sta-Bil in my fuel to help keep the fuel system clean and the fuel in good condition. If my fuel mix is more than three months old I replace it with new mix as the need arises. I do use the older mix in my trimmer and have had no problems. If your saw will sit unused for longer than a month, buy a can of Stihl Moto-Mix which is a quart of 92 octane, premixed 50:1, ethanol-free fuel using Stihl Ultra oil. If I'm going to store my saw I will drain out the pump gas mix and pour in about 1/3 tank of Moto-Mix and run the saw for a minute to circulate the new fuel. By doing this you will postpone the negative effects of ethanol on the rubber components of the fuel system. Or if you only use your saw minimally you can use Moto-Mix exclusively. Moto-Mix retails for $7.99 a quart so for me it is cost-prohibitive at over $32.00 per gallon after tax.

I hope all this info helps and if you have any other questions just ask. Now go out and get your new saw so you don't prolong the agony.

 

[Steve K]

Great advice on Stihls in general. I have a MS 361 that I love. Had a 23" box elder limb, 78 yrs old, along with a 40 foot blue spruce, a peach tree, and a large Maple branch come down when a class 1 twister upset my suburban existence last June. The MS 361 plowed through it all. I also borrowed my buddy's splitter, and now have a lifetime supply of firewood. I agree with you on the quick start and the easy chain adjuster, not worth the extra $$. The old way starts just fine, and the chain is plenty easy to adjust the old way. One more bit of advice, don't adjust the chain too tight. You will mess up the "needle sprocket" good, I found out the hard way. Not covered by warranty.

 

[ScagRider03]

Just got one of these saws and the damn thing keeps eating my pull cord any ideas? Is my string to long or just junk cord from stens?

 

[Lawnranger]

Start by removing the starter cover assembly and inspecting every part that the cord comes in contact with and look for something sharp such as a burr or metal edge that the cord could be rubbing on. Tell me about the break in the starter cord. Is it chaffed and several inches or more frayed or is more like a clean break/cut or something else? Where is the break in the cord? Closer to the pull handle, in the middle somewhere or closest to the rewind pulley? Please be as specific as possible.

Since you just got the saw, tell me, is it new from the dealer where it would still be under warranty or just new to you?

 

[ScagRider03]

Start by removing the starter cover assembly and inspecting every part that the cord comes in contact with and look for something sharp such as a burr or metal edge that the cord could be rubbing on. Tell me about the break in the starter cord. Is it chaffed and several inches or more frayed or is more like a clean break/cut or something else? Where is the break in the cord? Closer to the pull handle, in the middle somewhere or closest to the rewind pulley? Please be as specific as possible.

Since you just got the saw, tell me, is it new from the dealer where it would still be under warranty or just new to you?

It seemed to be melted

 

[Lawnranger]

It seemed to be melted

I need you to answer all my questions to better help you.

 

[ScagRider03]

Start by removing the starter cover assembly and inspecting every part that the cord comes in contact with and look for something sharp such as a burr or metal edge that the cord could be rubbing on. Tell me about the break in the starter cord. Is it chaffed and several inches or more frayed or is more like a clean break/cut or something else? Where is the break in the cord? Closer to the pull handle, in the middle somewhere or closest to the rewind pulley? Please be as specific as possible.

Since you just got the saw, tell me, is it new from the dealer where it would still be under warranty or just new to you?

The saw is from my boss id say 2 to 3 years old. The cord seemed to melt / break towards the middle and it's after I use it for a while then shut down then start back up is when it goes maybe I put to much cord on? I am using stens green cord and this has happened about 5 times so every time I go to use just about breaks just about in middle of the cord closer to the end of which is tied into the pulley not the handle