Stihl leaf blowe bogging down

[appel1978]

So bought property that had a stihl leaf blower that didn't run and sat outside for 2 years that I lived there. So I replaced air filter, fuel filter, whole carburetor (aftermarket). It all came together as a kit on ebay. The only thing i didnt use was sparkplug that came with it because it was the wrong one. Boom it started right up easily. But once I pull the trigger it only runs full throttle for a second and starts bogging down. The only way I can keep it running is half throttle and I still have to feather the throttle after running a while or it will die out. Even at half throttle is sounds like it's either not getting enough gas or air. The old sparkplug was black so I figured even though it ran with the old one I threw a new one in there. Still does the same thing. And after running it a while at half throttle I have to be careful not to let throttle out. I have to keep it half throttled because if I let it out after running it it will stall out and I won't be able to start it for a while.. or if it doesn't stall out it won't throttle back up at all then it will just fall on its face as soon as I pull trigger. Thoughts?

 

[sgkent]

adjust the mixture?

 

[appel1978]

It's already at 40:1 what should I go richer 2cycle mixture or less oil

 

[sgkent]

the needle valve not the oil and gas. You mix those at whatever the manufacture specifies.

 

[bertsmobile1]

So you bought one of those "tune up kits" assembled from parts of highly dubious quality.
Then wondered why replacing the Stihl parts with stuff that could have been fished out of the scrap bin the blower does not work properly.
Really ?
If the carb has a H & L needle turn the H in 1/6 a turn at a time ( count them )
As soon as the blower will run at full throttle then turn the L needle in very slowly till the engine starts to faulter then back out till the engine starts to faulter and finally back to a spot 1/2 way between them
After that go back to the H needle & do the same
It's final position should be a little ( 1/12 turn or so ) further out than midway between too rich & too lean .

 

[hlw49]

Do all the above and check the muffler and exhaust port. They could be clogged.

 

[appel1978]

So you bought one of those "tune up kits" assembled from parts of highly dubious quality.
Then wondered why replacing the Stihl parts with stuff that could have been fished out of the scrap bin the blower does not work properly.
Really ?
If the carb has a H & L needle turn the H in 1/6 a turn at a time ( count them )
As soon as the blower will run at full throttle then turn the L needle in very slowly till the engine starts to faulter then back out till the engine starts to faulter and finally back to a spot 1/2 way between them
After that go back to the H needle & do the same
It's final position should be a little ( 1/12 turn or so ) further out than midway between too rich & too lean .

I assumed it would need adjusted I just not sure how to that is why I'm asking here for help. As for the kits yes they aren't oem but usually I have no problem replacing these small carbs I did on my lawn mower and my wood chipper and they are both running solid fir two years now with aftermarket kits. I just never replaced a blower carb and wasn't sure the procedure on adjusting it. So thank you for your detailed discription of how to do that. I'll report back if that was the issue.

 

[bertsmobile1]

There are certified aftermarket parts sold through reputable mower shops & on line parts suppliers like Jacks , Parts Tree , eReplacement etc
Then there is the lucky dip of faceless, nameless crooks & thieves who retail on ebay & amazon
Some are good but a lot are crooks
Remember the parts that Stihl reject as being substandard or defective are still OEM parts that fit model XYZ regardless of the fact that they will not work no matter what you do
If they don't say the parts are premium quality & defect free then it is perfectly legal for the crooks to sell them as OEM.
I see these on a daily basis and more than once I have replaced an ( now ex ) customers defective parts & told them to take a hike because they accuse me of being a thief because I replaced all of the junk parts they had just fitted
Their best outcome is my competitor will do the same thing, but he will only use original brand parts that are 2 to 5 times the aftermarket parts I fit and he charges $ 50 an hour more than me in 1/2 hour blocks of actual time against me who charges scheduled fees.

 

[sgkent]

$50 an hour is a bargain these days. I learned in the automotive machine shop business years ago that lots of parts that are sold aftermarket are the ones the factory didn't want to use for some reason. Many can be used if the defect is fixed - a hole that no one tapped, a fender that doesn't properly line up without some tweaking, a rod that is not properly machined, etc.. But that takes time and time is money. I tell people to hunt down the correct factory part if they can but even then they can get someone else's return that ended up back on the shelf. The problem with sites like Amazon is that people buy a part, test it and if it doesn't solve the problem they send it back used, or worse they clean up the old part, stick it in the box and send it back. Then someone else buys it.

 

[bertsmobile1]

I upped my fees to $ 72 he charges $ 120 the franchise shops in the nearest city are from $ 150 to $ 200 but this is monopoly money ( $ aus)
And yes that is why we use pars from reputable aftermarket suppliers like Prime Line, Oregon, Rotary , Stens & in my case RGS's house brand , down here all with 12 month warranty .
But way too many just buy the cheapest part they find on Ammozone or Evilpay and in most cases they just toss he part then go buy the next cheapest
People are stupid they believe that Santa clause is real and any one can make a product that retails for $ 200 for 20¢