my tiger cub had a delay in the start position for a while but eventually started and runs fine. Blowing leaves the other day she stalled (overload) and now she keeps blowing fuses in the S position. ran out of fuses but was able to jump the 20 amp. fuse she started ran like she suppose to loaded the machine onto the trailer and brought her home. Checked all safety switches and wiring looks they are good. I noticed on page 64 collar schematic they show 2 diodes one on a relay and the other one between the ground and the green wire from the engine adapter. I wonder if one of them went bad. Hopefully someone can help?
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scag tiger cub blows 20 amp fuse in start position
- Thread starter allgun
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Export threadmechanic mark
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403 Forbidden click anyway If your mower is blowing fuses when cranking engine you have a failed carburetor solenoid diode. Click on parts list after locating your serial number and go to last page for wiring schematic.
Hands on, inspect everything electrical, wiring for bare wires, loose connections, corrosion, rust, relays & switches, look for burn marks also,
inspect backside of ignition switch as well as all ground cables, wires, & straps.
Hands on, inspect everything electrical, wiring for bare wires, loose connections, corrosion, rust, relays & switches, look for burn marks also,
inspect backside of ignition switch as well as all ground cables, wires, & straps.
Last edited:
403 Forbidden click anyway If your mower is blowing fuses when cranking engine you have a failed carburetor solenoid diode. Click on parts list after locating your serial number and go to last page for wiring schematic.
mechanic mark, thanks for your reply. The problem I have is, I turn the key switch to the first position which energizes the electrical system she blows the 20amp fuse not in the cranking position. On the schematic there are 2 diodes only one on the relay in the panel and the other one between the ground the engine adapter harness
Mad Mackie
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Hi allgun,
Not sure of your electrical skill level or if you have a multimeter, but get a bunch of 20 amp fuses.
Possible problem areas:
The fuse holder itself.
Chaffing of the electrical harness somewhere on the machine or engine.
Key switch.
PTO switch.
Engine fuel shutoff solenoid.
Electronic control module.
All electrical connectors, corrosion, poor contact, burning of contacts or melting of plastic connectors.
When key on, power goes to the PTO switch, the seat switch, the safety circuits starting with the brake interlock switch, the L/H then R/H control lever switches. The power from both the seat switch and safety control circuits go to the electronic control module.
There are two diodes in the electrical system, both of which are in the cranking circuit. One is actually inside the cranking relay, the other is installed in the electrical harness.
I would start trouble shooting by disconnecting the engine harness connector and try key on and work your way back thru the electrical system toward the keyswitch.
I print enlarged parts of the electrical system diagram and piece them together so I can see them easier and get a better understanding of the system before I start diagnosing an electrical system. As I do this, I also make a list of the wire colors and to which components or circuits that they are related to.
Enjoy!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
On this forum, there is a Scag group where you can post and possibly get specific responses relative to Scag machines. Posting your machine model, serial number and engine make/type, helps other members target more specific comments about your machine. On the Scag website there is a link to manuals, but you need the model and S/N of your machine to get the correct manual, it is a printable pdf download and periodically updated by Scag.
Not sure of your electrical skill level or if you have a multimeter, but get a bunch of 20 amp fuses.
Possible problem areas:
The fuse holder itself.
Chaffing of the electrical harness somewhere on the machine or engine.
Key switch.
PTO switch.
Engine fuel shutoff solenoid.
Electronic control module.
All electrical connectors, corrosion, poor contact, burning of contacts or melting of plastic connectors.
When key on, power goes to the PTO switch, the seat switch, the safety circuits starting with the brake interlock switch, the L/H then R/H control lever switches. The power from both the seat switch and safety control circuits go to the electronic control module.
There are two diodes in the electrical system, both of which are in the cranking circuit. One is actually inside the cranking relay, the other is installed in the electrical harness.
I would start trouble shooting by disconnecting the engine harness connector and try key on and work your way back thru the electrical system toward the keyswitch.
I print enlarged parts of the electrical system diagram and piece them together so I can see them easier and get a better understanding of the system before I start diagnosing an electrical system. As I do this, I also make a list of the wire colors and to which components or circuits that they are related to.
Enjoy!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
On this forum, there is a Scag group where you can post and possibly get specific responses relative to Scag machines. Posting your machine model, serial number and engine make/type, helps other members target more specific comments about your machine. On the Scag website there is a link to manuals, but you need the model and S/N of your machine to get the correct manual, it is a printable pdf download and periodically updated by Scag.
This is an update to my thread. Being a mechanical engineer for more than 50 years it was frustrating for me to find the problem with the blown 20amp fuse. Mechanical problems you can see electrical problems you can't .I went to our local Scag dealer and was told that to find my problem could take hours. At $125.00 per hour I was determined to find it myself. Now, for all you DIYers I like to share with you a UTUBE website. Go to realfixesrealfast.com look for "finding a active short" and watch the video.This is not only for cars and trucks it is for all electrical wirings . The tool he used (Circuit breaker and amp. probe) I found the the store who sells it.
Handsontools.com. Click on Shop all dept,s, than click on Diagostics, than click on Circuit Testers, scroll down and you will find the tester KD 2524D short circuit tester for $30.00 I bought the tester and it took me less that 10 minutes to find my problem. It was so easy and simple. I know there are other ways to test electrical circuits, with multimeters, amp probes ect. but you still have to test the effected wire after you find it. To OHM out a wire is not accurate if the wire is broken and still hangs on 2-3 strands you will get a continuity reading and you still have to make a voltage drop test. Hopefully this will help someone
Handsontools.com. Click on Shop all dept,s, than click on Diagostics, than click on Circuit Testers, scroll down and you will find the tester KD 2524D short circuit tester for $30.00 I bought the tester and it took me less that 10 minutes to find my problem. It was so easy and simple. I know there are other ways to test electrical circuits, with multimeters, amp probes ect. but you still have to test the effected wire after you find it. To OHM out a wire is not accurate if the wire is broken and still hangs on 2-3 strands you will get a continuity reading and you still have to make a voltage drop test. Hopefully this will help someone
mechanic mark
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This is an update to my thread. Being a mechanical engineer for more than 50 years it was frustrating for me to find the problem with the blown 20amp fuse. Mechanical problems you can see electrical problems you can't .I went to our local Scag dealer and was told that to find my problem could take hours. At $125.00 per hour I was determined to find it myself. Now, for all you DIYers I like to share with you a UTUBE website. Go to realfixesrealfast.com look for "finding a active short" and watch the video.This is not only for cars and trucks it is for all electrical wirings . The tool he used (Circuit breaker and amp. probe) I found the the store who sells it.
Handsontools.com. Click on Shop all dept,s, than click on Diagostics, than click on Circuit Testers, scroll down and you will find the tester KD 2524D short circuit tester for $30.00 I bought the tester and it took me less that 10 minutes to find my problem. It was so easy and simple. I know there are other ways to test electrical circuits, with multimeters, amp probes ect. but you still have to test the effected wire after you find it. To OHM out a wire is not accurate if the wire is broken and still hangs on 2-3 strands you will get a continuity reading and you still have to make a voltage drop test. Hopefully this will help someone
Good post, thanks for the information, what & where was the problem? Thanks.
Mark, you would not believe it it was in the clutch circuit the blue wire most likely overloaded with the heavy work and finally failed. The tool I bought pinpointed the problem in about 10 minutes. The current flow was to much for the wire size.
mechanic mark
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Mark, you would not believe it it was in the clutch circuit the blue wire most likely overloaded with the heavy work and finally failed. The tool I bought pinpointed the problem in about 10 minutes. The current flow was to much for the wire size.
Thanks allgun for pinpointing problem & repair, this most certainly will help Scag owners, as well as others, with this particular problem. I want to encourage you to contact Scag technical support with your problem & repair, thanks again.