Engine ??Scag Cougar shuts off in seconds, or minutes?? Help!!

[monkfarm]

:confused2: Help, I posted a similiar thread, but didn't know how to move it to the Scag forum.
I have a Scag Cougar SCR with Kaw 27 FD750D006998 with 659 hours. It will start up and run wonderful for seconds usually, but sometimes minutes with no lack of power, and then shut down like the ignition / or fuel was shut off.
I have replaced fuel filter, and fuel pump, put Sea Foam in the fuel tank, checked out the electrical connections: fuses, etc.
Disabled the safety disconnects. . .
It still does it. . .:confused2:

 

[monkfarm]

Just more questions: Could this be an oil alert cut off switch that is failing? Would I just disconnect the one wire that comes to it? I see two possible sensors that could be the oil shutoff. One, between the valve cover and the carburetor, looks like it is the temperature sensor (goes into a place close to where the coolant hose comes in.)

The other sensor is half way down the block below the above sensor, and is attached to a screw in (sensor?) and also just has one wire going to it. Would I just disconnect this wire to disable the cutout? Could this be the problem?

The other possible solution that was mentioned in a newly previous thread is the ignition switch which has been worn enough so that the key is somewhat loose in it. . . Any knowledgeable responses are much appreciated!!
I just blew out the fuel lines with compressed air, and took loose the electric fuel pump line, and tested with the ignition on, there seemed to be a little hesitation every few seconds, when the fuel pressure would suddenly diminish for a second or two. Maybe that is when it would quit when the engine is running.
I ordered a new ignition switch monday morning july 7th, so it should be here in a couple of days.

 

[monkfarm]

Checked out ground connection from battery (boy what a clumsy place to put that!!), but it seems very tight, and am getting .02 ohms resistance so that seems OK. No fuel shut-off solenoid on this one that I can find, on the engine or the various schematics in the manual.:confused2:
Now seems to run 5 to 15 seconds and shut off like it's shut off with the switch, I hope the replacement ignition switch that I ordered (has not arrived yet) is the solution because I cannot find anything else

 

[monkfarm]

I think the problem is actually the fuel pump. I had put a used pump in place that I was sure worked that was worked on, and cleaned out, but I notice that it hesitates occasionaly and I'm pretty sure that's when it cuts out. I put back the original fuel pump, and it ran longer. So I have a new fuel pump which I will install this morning, and see if that does the trick. . .My grass is getting long, it had better work!
:confused2:

 

[monkfarm]

So, I installed a new kawasaki spec fuel pump ($135), after the aftermarket fuel pump. The engine was shutting down after 1 or 2 minutes. Now, it is still shutting down, sometimes after 15 minutes, othertimes after 15 seconds. When it is running, it seems to have plenty of power, except for sometimes, there is a lack of power, and the engine requires full choke to keep running. ??????:confused2: The Saga continues. . . . . . .

 

[Mad Mackie]

Pulling in choke to keep and engine running is usually an indicator of some sort of fuel starvation. You need to start at the fuel tank and check each station along the fuel system to diagnose and rule out problems all the way to the carb. The vent in the fuel cap(s) is the first place to start and proceed onto the fuel supply. I have had to replace and reroute fuel supply lines on some older machines to get them away from heat sources around the engine and or hydraulic systems as fuel with ethanol will vapor lock at a lower temperature than non ethanol fuel. Just a thought. Bear in mind that many fuel systems, although having fuel filters, can allow small particles to pass into the carb in time. This silt can get behind the fuel shutoff solenoid plunger in the carb and stop it from fully opening. If you can get the engine to run long enough, I suggest that you check the voltage across the battery to see if the charging system is operating properly. I suggest that you do this after charging the battery.

 

[monkfarm]

Thanks, Mad Mackie, appreciate the educated and competent thinking!!!
Now more to check out, I did already reroute the fuel line once and I systemically blew out the lines with compressed air, drained the gas tank, and put in fresh gas, I will check out the carb solenoid, and other stuff.

 

[FreddyK]

I had kinda the same issue with my Turf Tiger its a Kaw FD661D, it was a bit more intermittent, but, needed increasing amount of choke to keep going.... it finally lost its spark ..... ended up replacing a relay and all of it went away...... lower fuel consumption, easy starts, no choke at all, Except to start.. I just hate electronic ignition stuff...... don't know if that's your issue of not, but just saying.....

 

[Kentucky_Rusty]

FreddyK: Which solenoid did you replace and did the dealer stock it?
Thank you from Kentucky, Rusty

I had kinda the same issue with my Turf Tiger its a Kaw FD661D, it was a bit more intermittent, but, needed increasing amount of choke to keep going.... it finally lost its spark ..... ended up replacing a relay and all of it went away...... lower fuel consumption, easy starts, no choke at all, Except to start.. I just hate electronic ignition stuff...... don't know if that's your issue of not, but just saying.....

 

[monkfarm]

Hi FreddyK and Rusty, No, I tore the radiator off, and what not to bet a real good look at the carb, and the solenoid wasn't there. There was a brass bolt in it's place and an electrical connection that was lying right below it. I don't remember doing that, but one of my former employees could have done this, it is a 2002 model, or at least that is when I think I bought it. The shut off solenoid is listed in all the diagrams as stock. There is a you tube of someone just cutting off the pin that the solenoid places in the fuel tube to shut off the fuel. I have a John Deere tractor 2010 that started to go through those solenoids at the rate of $80 a pop, and I just put a brass bolt in place of it, and it diesels sometimes after you shut it off, but it is not too irritating. I don';t believe you need the shut off solenoid.
Instead I ordered a new carburator from Pat's small engine in Isanti, MN. I don't know if that was a good move, but I have checked everthing else, and I believe that is the problem. . .