corvette 1
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I have a 2013 LTX1040. Due to lack of maintenance left rear wheel and tire will not come off. Right came off easy. Any idea how to get it to slide off axle shaft ?
rear wheel
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sgkent
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maybe soak a little PB Blaster or Liquid wrench on the connection first for 24 hours. I don't know your mower but if the axle goes into the transmission I would be careful pulling or pounding on it. You might be able to rig some kind of steel plate behind the wheel then use a puller against the nut and axle to remove it.
bertsmobile1
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I put a pair of scissor jacks between the wheel & frame ( rim if possible ) done up with fingers only to avoid ripping the axel right out .
Then I hit the end of the axel with an air hammer with the point of the bit ground off flat
Now you have to push hard so the end of the bit never looses contact with the axel or you risk mushrooming the end
when the jacks come loose , clean the axel & hole in rim with wet & dry , steel wool etc soaked with you favourite penetrant
The tap the wheel back fully on & repeat .
This a going to be a long slow process.
Heating the wheel helps a lot to break the rust bond
If you have the model with a key, tap it with pin punch so it moves 1/8" which will break its rust bond , do not hammer it in really hard a long way because you will make it lock
Work with the key slot at the top so you can keep squirting the penetrant into the slot
In extreme cases I have needed to heat the wheel dull red hot and work on it in that condition ( burnt finger potential ) but try to void doing this as it then means the wheels will need repainting
When you refit polish the axel & wheel Some have said that rifle / shotgun brushes are the go for the wheel and grease liberally
They should come off every 4 to 5 years and if you are not excessively mower proud, you can write the year on the wheel ( inside if you like ) so you will remember when it was last done
Then I hit the end of the axel with an air hammer with the point of the bit ground off flat
Now you have to push hard so the end of the bit never looses contact with the axel or you risk mushrooming the end
when the jacks come loose , clean the axel & hole in rim with wet & dry , steel wool etc soaked with you favourite penetrant
The tap the wheel back fully on & repeat .
This a going to be a long slow process.
Heating the wheel helps a lot to break the rust bond
If you have the model with a key, tap it with pin punch so it moves 1/8" which will break its rust bond , do not hammer it in really hard a long way because you will make it lock
Work with the key slot at the top so you can keep squirting the penetrant into the slot
In extreme cases I have needed to heat the wheel dull red hot and work on it in that condition ( burnt finger potential ) but try to void doing this as it then means the wheels will need repainting
When you refit polish the axel & wheel Some have said that rifle / shotgun brushes are the go for the wheel and grease liberally
They should come off every 4 to 5 years and if you are not excessively mower proud, you can write the year on the wheel ( inside if you like ) so you will remember when it was last done