problem with fr691v kawaski

ccelliottjr

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I have a gravely with the 23hp kawa, 48hrs run time. After warming up motor runs rough and makes popping sound eventually will return to normal but will start again. This cycle will continue for the duration of mowing.I have chased a fueled problem,cleaned carb,replaced filter,removed and flushed tank. I'm thinking electrical now,any suggestion on how to check the ignition system.Thank you for any advice. STUMPED!
 

bertsmobile1

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get a pair of in line spark testers and install them so you can see them easily from the drivers seat.
When it starts popping have a look at the testers,
If the spark is breaking down then you have an electical problem, if not a fuel problem.
 

Bicklebok

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Download the manual for your engine and look up the instructions on how to test the coils with a muti meter.
 

bertsmobile1

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Download the manual for your engine and look up the instructions on how to test the coils with a muti meter.

You will find them on page 169, with the following warning
Use only Tester 57001-1394 with new battery at
room temperature for this test. A tester other than
the Kawasaki Hand Tester should show different
readings.
If a megger or a meter with a large capacity battery
is used, the ignition coil will be damaged.


The kawakasi tool is $ 142 down here and runs off a 3v button battery not the 9V one used in most multimeters.

Also this test does not check the trigger module, just the actual windings.
Windings very rarely cause any problems, It is the trigger unit that goes bad and the trigger unit can not be isolated from the coil for testing as it is potted in and neither repairable nor replaceable.
So with ignition modules it is either works or don't work
 

ccelliottjr

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Well here goes more confusion. Purchased the in line spark tester , spark breaking down on #1 cylinder however this coil was just replaced by dealer,#2 with orig. coil appears okay. I don't trust my dealer to solve problem hoping you guys can help thank you for your ideas on this.
 

Bicklebok

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I would definitely test the coil, even if it was just replaced. Not real familiar with your model engine, but you could swap the coils amd see if the problem moves to the other cylinder.
 

bertsmobile1

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Did you disconnect the wire from each coil ?
There is a diode in the wire that connects them together to prevent ripples interacting with each other.
 
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