New professional series vtwins better then intecs?

crankit

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Whats the verdict on the currant professional series vtwins? Are they much of an improvement on the older intec vtwins? They look very similar. The intecs sounded like they had alot of trouble with dropping pushrods/valve train issues.

Id be intersted to know if briggs have resolved these issues in the professional series. Anyone know?
 

ILENGINE

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99% of the valve/dropped pushrods in the intek can be blamed on mouse nest or debris buildup in the cooling fins of the head, so it is not a mechanical problem as much as a lack of maintenance problem.

I had a Kohler Aegis 26 hp water cooled engine move the valve guide and bend the pushrod last month due to a failed water pump. So the valve problem is not just a Briggs problem.
 

motoman

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Yes water cooled engines move guides, but usually after they are overheated. Aluminum heat treat is degraded in the 350F range , softened. My new Intek pushed a guide on one side. This was due , I believe ,to a marginal head, either alloy, casting ,or heat treat. My Intek oil is often near 300F even with an oil cooler, and the head over 300F. Once fixed the Intek has been very reliable, 2004 model in craftsman. I watch the oil pressure and temp carefully. I have looked for years at the Intek ads, but cannot see any real change in the engine, except better air filter. The professionals here say good things about the pro series engines. My local Husqy dealer told me their pro engines push guides sometimes. It seems there are several issues working, but mainly heat management, IMO.
 

ILENGINE

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motoman, You are running way too hot. You are still within the max oil temp of 315, but in reality should be closer to 200-230 as a max. I would be checking timing or carb too lean causing excessive high run temperatures.
 

motoman

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  • / New professional series vtwins better then intecs?
IL ENG, Your have vast experience and I respect your comments. However, you once counseled that 270F was the upper recommended oil temp (per mfgr). You know I only have one machine. It has Beedee oil temp gauge reading sump liquid temp. I have checked it many times with KE temperature probe on a digital thermometer, and although some difference it still shows hot oil temperatures (10-15F lessthan 300F, but measured down the dipstick tube). Moreover I have installed a K.E head sensor (a la VW) which regularly reads 305F in summer at the head. I tried to measure the exhaust valve guide area of the head but could not get a good reading. IMO these low end AC engines run near the heat "edge" of damage. They cannot be treated like an automobile engine or appliance. Also the bagger add on is a formula for trouble (excess weight load). I would use a sweeper.
 
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