New JD X384, no power at all

[StadEMS3]

Thanks for the add, I just got my first new John Deere, an X384 today with a Kawasaki FR691V iTorque 23hp V-twin. I added armrests, front bumper, LED lights, and the MowerPlus module. I was also adding the 12V power kit and while snaking the wires up by the starter with a rigid fish tape I shorted out against the starter real quickly. The tractor is now completely dead, no lights, no gauges, nothing. All 3 fuses were pulled and checked with a meter. I see no fusable links or a master fuse anywhere. This is a brand new tractor, I started it once to put in the garage for mods. Nothing was unbolted, no wires or switches were disconnected. I know better and should of disconnected the battery but it was a simple wire run.

Any ideas before I have to suck it up and call the dealer?

 

[StarTech]

You must look closer as there is a fuse link as highlighted by the blue box in the following schematic. There also another second fuse link or fuse to right of the main fuse llink from the alternator voltage regulator.

 

[StadEMS3]

You must look closer as there is a fuse link as highlighted by the blue box in the following schematic. There also another second fuse link or fuse to right of the main fuse llink from the alternator voltage regulator.

View attachment 61506

Thank you very much, I'm going to purchase a tech manual as well!

 

[StadEMS3]

John Deere will be picking it up tomorrow, I'm hearing the harness will need to be replaced. Nice expensive lesson for me to disconnect the battery during electrical work. Sadnesss....

 

[StarTech]

So they are incapable of replacing the fuse link with another fuse link or a weatherproof 30a fuse holder. Besides I rather replace fuse links with replaceable fuses in the first place.

Sounds more like they are just taking the easy way out and charging you an arm and leg for doing it.

As a side note if you get the service manual on CD/DVD disk make a copy of the files. The last one I got failed with 3 months. Luckily I had already copy the service manual to my hard drive. Oh they try to prevent you from copying the file but it can be done.

 

[StadEMS3]

So they are incapable of replacing the fuse link with another fuse link or a weatherproof 30a fuse holder. Besides I rather replace fuse links with replaceable fuses in the first place.

Sounds more like they are just taking the easy way out and charging you an arm and leg for doing it.

As a side note if you get the service manual on CD/DVD disk make a copy of the files. The last one I got failed with 3 months. Luckily I had already copy the service manual to my hard drive. Oh they try to prevent you from copying the file but it can be done.

Yes, they have a fuse block with only 3 fuses in it. For the price we pay for these tractors (don't get me wrong they are great tractors), you'd think they would be more maintainace friendly with actual fuses. Now I'll most likely need a new harness with fusible links.

 

[bertsmobile1]

FWIW
I chop out the old fuseable link & replace it with a bigger fuse ( add all of the other fuses together )
The link prevents the loom from melting and is a bit of overkill if it is just supplying the fuse box .
IT has done it's job
Replacing it is a 10 minute job
As this will be a you pay situation , buy an inline waterproof fuse holder and solder it into the loom
$ 10 + 1 hour or so & job done .

 

[slomo]

I chop out the old fuseable link & replace it with a bigger fuse

Isn't that a recipe for disaster? I would fuse the circuit at the same amp rating.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Look at the circuits
The fuseable link simply supplies power to a fuse box so if one of the circuits shorts then their individual fuse blows
You use a fuseable link to allow a circuit to run over power for a short period of time
In electrical parlance they are SLOW BLOW FUSES
A 30 Amp fuseable link flows 30 amps for a prescribed short period .
A 30 Amp blade fuse blows the instant it see 30 A even if it is for a micro second .
So for instance if you wanted to protect the circuits from the battery being hooked up backwards a 50 A fuse would do that where as nothing on the mower would ever draw 50 A and the wiring would melt at 30 A

When regulations requiring the engine to stop within X revolutions it was common to short circuit the alternator so it become an electronic brake .
These are always protected with a fuseable link .
I ran banks of electric furnaces each one protected with a fuseable link that would allow 1000 A to pass through for around 15 minutes then blow
This protected the induction coils from getting too hot & going soft .

 

[slomo]

Look at the circuits
The fuseable link simply supplies power to a fuse box so if one of the circuits shorts then their individual fuse blows
You use a fuseable link to allow a circuit to run over power for a short period of time
In electrical parlance they are SLOW BLOW FUSES
A 30 Amp fuseable link flows 30 amps for a prescribed short period .
A 30 Amp blade fuse blows the instant it see 30 A even if it is for a micro second .
So for instance if you wanted to protect the circuits from the battery being hooked up backwards a 50 A fuse would do that where as nothing on the mower would ever draw 50 A and the wiring would melt at 30 A

When regulations requiring the engine to stop within X revolutions it was common to short circuit the alternator so it become an electronic brake .
These are always protected with a fuseable link .
I ran banks of electric furnaces each one protected with a fuseable link that would allow 1000 A to pass through for around 15 minutes then blow
This protected the induction coils from getting too hot & going soft .

I hear you but generally speaking about adding a larger fuse, normally, isn't recommended. Yes fuses and links can slash could blow at different amperages agreed. To me a 10 amp circuit gets a 10 amp fuse of any type. Agree to disagree. Seems to work for you though.