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John Deere L120 over heating?

#1

S

sheetmetalbabe

Hi. I have a John Deere L120. It starts up fine, runs fine but when I actually mow it ends up dying. My back yard is 1 acre, I got half a lap and it died. I put a mew air filter on it, new fuel pump, check to make sure holes in gas cap weren't clogged and let a little oil out. It didn't have too much oil but I watched a youtube video and guy said if there is too much oil it can get into the carb and cause the mower to not run. I was really trying for a quick fix. All that and I actually got to mow 2 laps before it died again. It seems really hot for only mowing a lap or two. If I let it cool off for a while it starts back up. I have it on the highest setting and it doesn't bog down or anything like the grass is too tall. It just seems to be overheating??? Any thoughts? I also just scraped all the grass out from under the deck 2 weeks ago and checked that , but it's still clean under there. Also put a voltage meter on last fall and new spindles a month ago??? Please help......:mad:


#2

S

SeniorCitizen

At full engine speed you should feel a strong (subjective) air flow just below the head (s). Mice are notorious for taking up residence under the shroud that directs cooling air across the head (s) and not paying rent. If unsure, remove the shroud and check.

It only takes minutes. On my LA 135 the shroud bolts don't need to be completely removed, just loosen. The 4 filter screen screws on top of the flywheel will need to be completely removed. If same size as mine a 3/8 and 5/16 socket is all the tools required.


#3

S

sheetmetalbabe

At full engine speed you should feel a strong (subjective) air flow just below the head (s). Mice are notorious for taking up residence under the shroud that directs cooling air across the head (s) and not paying rent. If unsure, remove the shroud and check.

It only takes minutes. On my LA 135 the shroud bolts don't need to be completely removed, just loosen. The 4 filter screen screws on top of the flywheel will need to be completely removed. If same size as mine a 3/8 and 5/16 socket is all the tools required.

Thanks for the reply! I don't think that is it BUT I will take it apart tomorrow and check just to be sure. I don't have a garage but I do have the deluxe JD cover for it. I thought it might be clogged with grass so I looked through the grill thing on top of the fly wheel and it is super clean in there. I will take it apart in the morning and let you know what I find.
Thanks again for taking the time to reply!
Julie


#4

D

deerescott

I know you checked the holes in the gas cap, but just to totally eliminate that as the issue I would loosen the cap a bit and run with it before chasing something else.


#5

S

SeniorCitizen

I may have omitted one step. If your mower engine is a V-twin engine the air cleaner housing may need to come off. No big deal. It's been awhile.:laughing:


#6

Retiredcarguy

Retiredcarguy

Blow it out, clean it out and always check it out!

Any machine, air or liquid cooled, that operates in the outdoors needs routine cleaning.


#7

S

sheetmetalbabe

I know you checked the holes in the gas cap, but just to totally eliminate that as the issue I would loosen the cap a bit and run with it before chasing something else.

OK, will do. I know it's not that because I actually blew thru it to make sure, but I will loosen it a tad anyway. I just had to go buy oil because it leaks somewhere and I always check it before I mow and usually have to add a little. Now my truck leaks oil too (lol) so I usually have some handy. I use the Briggs & Stratton oil in the mower and Valvoline high mileage 5W30 in the truck. Sometimes when I'm out of B&S I use the 5W30 in the mower. If the oil is thinner and it is low (not to low though) could that make it over heat?? Can the oil be getting too hot? It died on me last time and I had just added the 5W30 (it's part synthetic). Then it rained so I couldn't do anything with it (no garage). It has the B&S 22 horse engine.
And thanks for taking the time to share your opinion!!


#8

S

sheetmetalbabe

Blow it out, clean it out and always check it out!

Any machine, air or liquid cooled, that operates in the outdoors needs routine cleaning.

Hi, thanks. I did, it is as clean as ever. I blow all the grass out with a leaf blower when I am done. Put the hood up and it is almost spotless, I even blow out under where the drive belt is and everything???
Thanks for the advise!


#9

S

sheetmetalbabe

I may have omitted one step. If your mower engine is a V-twin engine the air cleaner housing may need to come off. No big deal. It's been awhile.:laughing:

Yes it is. Will let you know what happens, had to go buy some oil. The grass still needs a few hours to dry out from the dew.
Wish me luck!


#10

M

motoman

Overheating is an easy impression with the air cooled engines. Unless you use some measuring device like an infra red temp gun or KE thermometer you cannot know if "overheat" is an issue. These lawnmower engines run hotter than cars, but impossible to know if they are "really" overheating without a measuring device and some basic reference number. Some in this forum are trying to get some expected "normal" temp numbers , but it is slow going. If you borrow a temp gun (fairly common tool now) I would worry if your cyl head reads over 300F AWAY from the exhaust pipe header area.


#11

S

sheetmetalbabe

OMG :eek:
I took the shroud off and there wasn't anything under there except a little film of dirt, but I cleaned if off.
I put B&S oil in it. Called the John Deere Dealer and he said I shouldn't mix the part synthetic oil with the regular and it would get hotter but not enough to make it die.
I mowed 4 laps!! And then it died. I cooled it off with my leaf bower and mowed 2 more laps. Before it dies it starts surging A LOT.
I also noticed the air plenum extension was coming apart and the clip was barely on there. If you close the hood and look thru the louvers there are some gaps where the
extension fits around the grill on top of the fly wheel. Sounds stupid but if all the heat isn't exiting thru the louvers could that make it too hot? The air plenum extension has a small melted spot on it.
I took it off and tried to close the gap but it didn't work. JD dealer is closed and they don't have any in stock anyway. I can't find any pictures of one but I think the gap should be closed????
I did forget to loosen the gas cap, I will try to remember when I go back out, but I did blow air thru it yesterday and it is clean as a whistle.
The JD guy said maybe a coil???? Guess I will watch some youtube videos on coils and check back to see if anyone has any ideas.
Thanks for all the tips, I do appreciate you all taking the time to read this and reply!!!!!!!:cool:


#12

Carscw

Carscw

When a bad coil gets hot it grounds out and stops working.
When you cooled it off it goes back to working.


#13

S

sheetmetalbabe

When a bad coil gets hot it grounds out and stops working.
When you cooled it off it goes back to working.

How bad would it be to mow with the hood off to keep it cool???
Just so the grass doesn't get any more out of control while I figure out the coil thing?


#14

S

SeniorCitizen

OMG :eek:
I took the shroud off and there wasn't anything under there except a little film of dirt, but I cleaned if off.
I put B&S oil in it. Called the John Deere Dealer and he said I shouldn't mix the part synthetic oil with the regular and it would get hotter but not enough to make it die.
I mowed 4 laps!! And then it died. I cooled it off with my leaf bower and mowed 2 more laps. Before it dies it starts surging A LOT.
I also noticed the air plenum extension was coming apart and the clip was barely on there. If you close the hood and look thru the louvers there are some gaps where the
extension fits around the grill on top of the fly wheel. Sounds stupid but if all the heat isn't exiting thru the louvers could that make it too hot? The air plenum extension has a small melted spot on it.
I took it off and tried to close the gap but it didn't work. JD dealer is closed and they don't have any in stock anyway. I can't find any pictures of one but I think the gap should be closed????
I did forget to loosen the gas cap, I will try to remember when I go back out, but I did blow air thru it yesterday and it is clean as a whistle.
The JD guy said maybe a coil???? Guess I will watch some youtube videos on coils and check back to see if anyone has any ideas.
Thanks for all the tips, I do appreciate you all taking the time to read this and reply!!!!!!!:cool:

If your tractor looks similar to this one, the normal air flow for cooling is for the air to enter the louver area on both sides of the hood. Those areas are connected to the round plenum I believe you called it, tinner talk. :laughing:

From there it is drawn in by the flywheel air vanes, travels under the shroud you removed to check for mouse nest and is discharged at the front across the heads on each side. If you carefully place your hand below the heads you'll feel the discharge air. On my tractor that would be below the grill near the ends of the bumper on each side.

Note: these engines are designed to mow at full throttle RPM. Just going to the mail box like I do sometimes lower RPM is OK but under load mowing take the RPM to the top. And of course the outdoor ambient temperature makes a huge difference too being air is the little feller's only method of cooling. Mowing at 70°F as opposed to 95 makes a world of difference.

The melted spot on the extension you mention I don't know about. Maybe it was rubbing on the rotating flywheel screen for some reason.

Attachments





#15

M

Mad Mackie

Vapor lock?
Charging system not operating properly?


#16

S

sheetmetalbabe

Tinner talk LOLOL!!!! You are right but I actually looked it up in the JD Parts Catalog so you all would know what I was talking about :cool:
I am also a commercial/industrial roofer, but that talk isn't allowed on here, aahahaha.
Yes, my John Deere looks like that, just no bumper and some peeling pain and a little rust on the deck. I bought it in 2005!
I always mow at full throttle, in case you were wondering.
I call the JD dealer so much they offered me a job :laughing: So is mowing without the hood on a really bad idea?
I don't mean to be such a girl but I thought it would stay cool that way. It has cooled off at least 10 degrees in the last hour, maybe 15. I am going to go see how many laps I can get.
I will be back......


#17

S

sheetmetalbabe

When a bad coil gets hot it grounds out and stops working.
When you cooled it off it goes back to working.

That will be my next step. I already know way more about this mower than I wanted, LOL.
Thanks


#18

S

shiftsuper175607

OMG :eek:
I took the shroud off and there wasn't anything under there except a little film of dirt, but I cleaned if off.
I put B&S oil in it. Called the John Deere Dealer and he said I shouldn't mix the part synthetic oil with the regular and it would get hotter but not enough to make it die.
I mowed 4 laps!! And then it died. I cooled it off with my leaf bower and mowed 2 more laps. Before it dies it starts surging A LOT.
I also noticed the air plenum extension was coming apart and the clip was barely on there. If you close the hood and look thru the louvers there are some gaps where the
extension fits around the grill on top of the fly wheel. Sounds stupid but if all the heat isn't exiting thru the louvers could that make it too hot? The air plenum extension has a small melted spot on it.
I took it off and tried to close the gap but it didn't work. JD dealer is closed and they don't have any in stock anyway. I can't find any pictures of one but I think the gap should be closed????
I did forget to loosen the gas cap, I will try to remember when I go back out, but I did blow air thru it yesterday and it is clean as a whistle.
The JD guy said maybe a coil???? Guess I will watch some youtube videos on coils and check back to see if anyone has any ideas.
Thanks for all the tips, I do appreciate you all taking the time to read this and reply!!!!!!!:cool:

Try leaving the plenum off and see if it stays cooler.

also, If the engine is running too lean it can get hot.


#19

S

sheetmetalbabe

Try leaving the plenum off and see if it stays cooler.

also, If the engine is running too lean it can get hot.

That is a good idea. I was actually raising the hood while mowing to try and cool it off, 7 laps! Yes, I know each lap is shorter than the first.
The grass is wet, temp dropped and must have hit dew point, it's gonna look like crap in the morning. Oh well, at least I got 1/2 the back done.
What is too lean? The gas/air mix in the carb? How do I fix that?


#20

S

SeniorCitizen

The design is to cool with outdoor ambient air rather than the flywheel air pump attempting to cool with hot air from the engine compartment. It needs the hood and the plenum.


#21

S

sheetmetalbabe

The design is to cool with outdoor ambient air rather than the flywheel air pump attempting to cool with hot air from the engine compartment. It needs the hood and the plenum.

Could it be a carb issue?


#22

S

SeniorCitizen

Could it be a carb issue?
Can be as mentioned earlier running on the lean side. BUT, if yours drinks gas like mine that won't be the problem.


#23

S

shiftsuper175607

Tinner talk LOLOL!!!! You are right but I actually looked it up in the JD Parts Catalog so you all would know what I was talking about :cool:
I am also a commercial/industrial roofer, but that talk isn't allowed on here, aahahaha.
Yes, my John Deere looks like that, just no bumper and some peeling pain and a little rust on the deck. I bought it in 2005!
I always mow at full throttle, in case you were wondering.
I call the JD dealer so much they offered me a job :laughing: So is mowing without the hood on a really bad idea?
I don't mean to be such a girl but I thought it would stay cool that way. It has cooled off at least 10 degrees in the last hour, maybe 15. I am going to go see how many laps I can get.
I will be back......

I bought my JD LX277 at auction. It had no hood.
I use it without one. The 4 parts needed to replace would be $500-600 dollars

A hood is decoration and protection from the rain. I do not mow in the rain.
A push mower does not have a hood.


#24

S

sheetmetalbabe

Well.....
Called the JD dealer and talked to a different guy, he said it is NOT the coil! He had no clue without seeing it. It's $45.00 just for them to come and get it :eek:
He mentioned a compression test but I am clueless on that one and sure I don't have the tool to do it. I might try a fuel pump??
I have a Dodge 1500 4x4. It was doing the same thing, would be going down the highway and it would lose all power. We didn't think it was the fuel pump because I replaced it once.
If I waited 5 minutes on the side of the road, it would be OK and I would make it home. Any thoughts??

Thanks again for everyone trying to help. It's hard when you can't see the actual mower.
I appreciate it!! :biggrin:


#25

S

SeniorCitizen

I bought my JD LX277 at auction. It had no hood.
I use it without one. The 4 parts needed to replace would be $500-600 dollars

A hood is decoration and protection from the rain. I do not mow in the rain.
A push mower does not have a hood.

So you saying we don't need to operate the way they were designed to operate.

If it's that way the next time you need to change oil but all you have handy is automatic transmission fluid just put that in and it'll be ok.


#26

S

SeniorCitizen

Well.....
Called the JD dealer and talked to a different guy, he said it is NOT the coil! He had no clue without seeing it. It's $45.00 just for them to come and get it :eek:
He mentioned a compression test but I am clueless on that one and sure I don't have the tool to do it. I might try a fuel pump??
I have a Dodge 1500 4x4. It was doing the same thing, would be going down the highway and it would lose all power. We didn't think it was the fuel pump because I replaced it once.
If I waited 5 minutes on the side of the road, it would be OK and I would make it home. Any thoughts??

Thanks again for everyone trying to help. It's hard when you can't see the actual mower.
I appreciate it!! :biggrin:

So the guy on the phone is guessing the same as we are.

Even though I have no doubt you know what's hot and what's not, let's back up and do some temperature investigation of just how hot it is.


#27

S

sheetmetalbabe

So you saying we don't need to operate the way they were designed to operate.

If it's that way the next time you need to change oil but all you have handy is automatic transmission fluid just put that in and it'll be ok.

REALLY? The John Deere Tech, who is certified in John Deer repair, said "OIL IS OIL IT SHOULDN'T MATTER". And that was my thought.
That is a far cry from transmission fluid. If all you have are sarcastic comments, keep them to yourself.
Can your wife put new drag links, steering sector and a pinion gear on your mower?? Maybe rebuild the deck while she is at it? I think not. :confused2:


#28

S

sheetmetalbabe

So the guy on the phone is guessing the same as we are.

Even though I have no doubt you know what's hot and what's not, let's back up and do some temperature investigation of just how hot it is.

Yes, you are right about the guy on the phone. We are all guessing. I do appreciate all of your time though.
I now agree with you on the overheating thing also. I tried this morning and got one lap in and it died. And it wasn't hot because it didn't run for more than 3 minutes.
My pickup truck was doing the same thing and it ended up being the fuel pump. I went and bought one, just got back. I noticed the fuel filter was full and it usually only gets halfway full.
I am thinking the pump can't keep up. It looks like an easy fix to me. I know about the infra red temp gun because we use them on torch down roofs to check for
hot spots before we leave so we don't set a building on fire. I don't have one and don't know where the guys that do have one are working. BUT you were right! It's not overheating.
Chock one up for Motoman!!! I will let you know if it works.........:cool:


#29

Carscw

Carscw

I would run it till it shuts off then check for spark. As soon as it shuts off.


#30

S

sheetmetalbabe

I would run it till it shuts off then check for spark. As soon as it shuts off.

How do I check for spark?
I did replace the fuel pump. Super easy. I mowed a half acre, but it still isn't quite right. It is better but it surges, if I turn the PTO off it will get back to running OK.
If I turn PTO back on it dies but starts right back up. Before it would just die and not start for half hour or so.
Maybe there were 2 problems?? I did put a voltage regulator on in the fall and that made a HUGH difference. :smile:


#31

S

sheetmetalbabe

Also when I took the old fuel pump off there was no gas in the line from the pump to the carb.
before the new pump the fuel filter was all the way full of gas, now it is about half full of gas like it used to be.


#32

M

motoman

Glad to see responses to this thread. I respect the packaging engineers with their fan flow (cfm) and shrouding design. I have also wondered about the hood. On my dyt 4000 there is a boxed shroud on the hood that mates with the fan intake. When I put on the oil cooler I carefully preserved it, but put two big hole in the sides of the hood for oil cooler fan intake and exhaust. It would be good for someone to tell us what that shroud on the underside of the hood is expected to do. It does not provide cooler air. So perhaps a guard against debris and grass which cold block the engine fan intake mesh??? IMO the weak link in these ac engines is the head which can easily overheat. Next, measured oil temp in the sump of 280F-300F (or more? ) not conducive to rod bearing and main life. Plus (still a study in process) the head may benefit from a cooler block through conduction.

Once more for new readers...the coils contain transistors (think speaker amplifiers) which only tolerate so much heat. So an overheated engine can affect several areas.

edit: I now see in the previous responses that the shroud (plenum) may be to direct cooler air into the fan. Sorry I missed that response. Still, on my Intek is feels like it merely traps more hot air for circulation.


#33

S

shiftsuper175607

So you saying we don't need to operate the way they were designed to operate.

If it's that way the next time you need to change oil but all you have handy is automatic transmission fluid just put that in and it'll be ok.

Hoods and oil changes are not even apples to oranges.


Come on...Zero turns don't have covered engines.

What is your problem?


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