bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 24,727
OK
First of all you are doing things the wrong way round.
You ask here first , get told the truth then go on You tube to try and find some one who knows what they are talking about ( cuts out about 75% of them ) then watch how they do it .
If the coil has a remote control unit ( often called an exciter ) then you can test it with an Ω meter and the engine manual will list the limits .
If the coil has an embedded Hall Effect trigger chip in it then it becomes a "Module" and it can not be tested with an Ω meter other than a secondary reading on the HT side .
Now fools skim through a manual and see some numbers then they decide that the numbers for a specific engine must be the same for all engines and publish total BS on You Tube .
Once upon a time I tried to correct some of them but that always results in me being abused, flamed & trolled by the presenters loyal disciples who will not tolerate any criticism of their messiah .
To test a module you need an oscilloscope plus the appropriate signal generators and even a flux generator, thousands of dollars worth of gear to test a $ 40 part .
Now the output of a module gets tested with a variable gap meter
B & S make a simple 2 gap one which gives you a pass / fail result or you can get any one of a number that have a moving contact that can be moved further apart till the spark can no longer jump the gap.
However to be of any meaning full value you need to know things like the number of turns on each winding within the coils the strength of the ignition magnet, the air gap between the coil & magnet the air pressure & humidity in your workshop , your altitude etc etc etc .
So in reality a good / bad test is quite enough
The resistance of AIR at 150 psi over a 0.030" gap is roughly equivalent to the resistance of AIR over a 0.50" gap at sea level .
This is how those old Champion plug testers worked
They had a trembler coil in them that produced a consistent stream of sparks and you increased the air pressure around the spark plug till the spark stopped jumping the plug gap .
A great toy for convincing a car owner that perfectly good spark plugs needed to be replaced
And a word of warning about using those sliding contact spark testers
If you are still generating pulses from the engine and the resistance at the testers gap is too great for the electricity to jump then YOU can become the conductive path OUCH or even RIP so you only widen the gap to .05" or till the spark stops whichever happens first .
First of all you are doing things the wrong way round.
You ask here first , get told the truth then go on You tube to try and find some one who knows what they are talking about ( cuts out about 75% of them ) then watch how they do it .
If the coil has a remote control unit ( often called an exciter ) then you can test it with an Ω meter and the engine manual will list the limits .
If the coil has an embedded Hall Effect trigger chip in it then it becomes a "Module" and it can not be tested with an Ω meter other than a secondary reading on the HT side .
Now fools skim through a manual and see some numbers then they decide that the numbers for a specific engine must be the same for all engines and publish total BS on You Tube .
Once upon a time I tried to correct some of them but that always results in me being abused, flamed & trolled by the presenters loyal disciples who will not tolerate any criticism of their messiah .
To test a module you need an oscilloscope plus the appropriate signal generators and even a flux generator, thousands of dollars worth of gear to test a $ 40 part .
Now the output of a module gets tested with a variable gap meter
B & S make a simple 2 gap one which gives you a pass / fail result or you can get any one of a number that have a moving contact that can be moved further apart till the spark can no longer jump the gap.
However to be of any meaning full value you need to know things like the number of turns on each winding within the coils the strength of the ignition magnet, the air gap between the coil & magnet the air pressure & humidity in your workshop , your altitude etc etc etc .
So in reality a good / bad test is quite enough
The resistance of AIR at 150 psi over a 0.030" gap is roughly equivalent to the resistance of AIR over a 0.50" gap at sea level .
This is how those old Champion plug testers worked
They had a trembler coil in them that produced a consistent stream of sparks and you increased the air pressure around the spark plug till the spark stopped jumping the plug gap .
A great toy for convincing a car owner that perfectly good spark plugs needed to be replaced
And a word of warning about using those sliding contact spark testers
If you are still generating pulses from the engine and the resistance at the testers gap is too great for the electricity to jump then YOU can become the conductive path OUCH or even RIP so you only widen the gap to .05" or till the spark stops whichever happens first .
