Deere 100 Series

[bertsmobile1]

Thanks for the info Bert, thats where i got the belt numbers from. The bottom of the seat. GX20072.

But further more, ill just put the belt that was on it back on because the mower was cutting fine and i dont think the belt on the mower deck is the reason why the tractor moves slowly after 15-20 minutes of cutting.

But ive been unable to recreate the problem after 1-2 hours of running it on the block. I am going to replace the steering sector gear.

Any ideas after watching the video Bert?

GX20072 is a 103.875" belt fitted to the 42" cut deck.
So if the dealer fitted a different deck, it will be the wrong belt for your mower.

FWIW the deck generally does not affect the ground speed unless it is boging down the engine.

So your problem will lie in the transmission belt system or the brake or the clutch or the tranny itself.
So do the tests I outlined earlier.
Check that there is nothing stopping the clutch from fully disengaging
Check that the brake also fully disengages ( note the brake works on the layshaft not directly on the rear axel )
Check that you can turn over the engine by rotating the transmission belt.

 

[bertsmobile1]

From the video it looks like the clutch is not fully disengaging .
The bend between the clutch pulleys should be a lot more S shaped than that.
Go to the JD manual and compare the photos to your mower.

 

[FPMotorsports]

Bert, do you legit feel at this point that those clutch pulleys are the root cause? Read below..

UPDATE:

Well I changed the steering sector and so thats all good to go. Cleaned and put the deck back on. Loaded it on the trailer.. took it to my buddies 2 acre lot to see if i can recreate the problem and sure enough, after 20 minutes or so of cutting the thing just starts crawling. There is no loss in RPM, the motor sounds the same, but after 20 minutes of mowing i began to lose all forward momentum, and reverse doesnt even want to work much at all, soo slow that it barely moves in reverse. If you take your hand and force the peddle down even further it goes a BIT quicker.. for a second or two than back to being slow. The transmission is warm to the touch but nothing outrageously hot.

Any ideas!? I have done so much i think you pros should be able to narrow this down at this point!

 

[bertsmobile1]

Bert, do you legit feel at this point that those clutch pulleys are the root cause? Read below..

UPDATE:

Well I changed the steering sector and so thats all good to go. Cleaned and put the deck back on. Loaded it on the trailer.. took it to my buddies 2 acre lot to see if i can recreate the problem and sure enough, after 20 minutes or so of cutting the thing just starts crawling. There is no loss in RPM, the motor sounds the same, but after 20 minutes of mowing i began to lose all forward momentum, and reverse doesnt even want to work much at all, soo slow that it barely moves in reverse. If you take your hand and force the peddle down even further it goes a BIT quicker.. for a second or two than back to being slow. The transmission is warm to the touch but nothing outrageously hot.

Any ideas!? I have done so much i think you pros should be able to narrow this down at this point!

Well it has to be either the tranny or the tranny belt system, one or the other or perhaps a bit of both.
Running the mower on blocks puts no load on the transmission so I am not suprised that you could not recreate your problem.

FWIW the pump in the tranny is a series of tiny little pistons runing in holes .
A rotating face cam pushes these pistons up which pump around 0.5cc to 5 cc of oil each
There are no seals on most of these piston pumps so when the oil gets hot & thin it runs down the side of the piston rather than being pumped by the piston to go on and move the motor.
Thus oil level is very important ,
Clean oil is even more important.
You have not mentioned that you checked the oil level, have you ?
Not sure about your prticular box but they all have at least 1 filter and a lot of them have 2, one external that you can change and one internal that gets changed every time the box is opened up.
Either of these get clogged and it will also act like a low oil situation.
This is Tuff Torques web site, click on the word troubleshooting at the bottom of the page to download the full trouble shooting flow sheet, apparently you can not get directly to the flow chart.
Document Moved
You will find the complete service manual contained within the JD manual for your mower which you can view for free via the JD web site or buy a copy. They are all over Evilbay & Craigs at a slightly cheaper rate but it is all there and available for free.

The direct link showing how to check the transmission oil was in one of my posts a while back.

 

[FPMotorsports]

At this point I've done everything except removing the transmission and checking it's oil. Other folks on different forums suggest even at this point, with 600 hours it's a temporary fix. That doing the tranny oil would maybe get one more season out of it.. Plus doing this probono, I'm not so sure I want to take the huge last step on a hope and prayer. I've read lots of negative things about the t40's.

 

[FPMotorsports]

Alright, transmission is out, its open its drained. Its really clean, no unnecessary movements, no natural disasters so to speak. Tomorrow ill refill it and see!

Any recommendations on what i should refill it with!?

 

[FPMotorsports]

Today i came home.. put a gasket on, filled it with new 5W50.. installed it. Instantly started making a grinding type noise... Pulled it back into the shop.. put it on stands. I also lost all power WITHOUT cutting, so zero load in about 5 minutes this time. Before it lost power the same way.. after 15-20 minutes of cutting..

When i turn A wheel the other turns opposite.. now im not a master mechanic but that seems not right. What I am saying is if i turn say the right axle forward.. the left axle goes backwards. And vice versa. So the tires are turning... opposite directions.

I didnt remove any parts of the transmission when i opened it.. just opened it checked the magnets for shavings, cleaned it real good let it dry over night. New gasket, new fluids. reinstalled..

 

[cpurvis]

If you have both drive wheels off the ground and turn one, the other will rotate in the opposite direction. That's how a differential works. It's fine.

 

[FPMotorsports]

UPDATE TIME:

Well folks, after it sitting in my garage under a bed sheet for a month my friend decided to order up the tuff torq rebuild kit (1A646099590) It contained a new center case, motor, pump, all pistons, orings, seals, even gasket maker. So, I pulled it all apart again (3rd time), this time I removed everything, all the internals. Layed them out, cleaned everything thoroughly and went ahead with the rebuild kit. New oil, installed. Runs like a banshee. Cant even keep up to her now. She jerks ya back good and hard when ya press on the peddle.

Very happy to report, that its been two weeks since the rebuild (I wanted to wait before updating, dreading that I would get a text any minute saying "hey buddy, bad news" haha) and everything is still working totally fine!

Thanks everyone for all the recommendations, for all the help and suggestions. You can consider me very well versed in the removal, rebuild, understanding, and reinstallation of the K series hydrostatic tuff-torq transmissions!

 

[bertsmobile1]

Good to hear,
Wear on tranny hydraulics is measured in 10th of thous so without special measuring gear you will not be able to deect it.
Found that out the hard way, big loss on warantee repairs.

So now we know where to send all the Hydro problesm to :laughing: