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cylinder wall crosshatch
- Thread starter tybilly
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Export threadAre you using a hand drill? Or a drill press. I use a variable speed hand drill with medium grit stones. I run the drill as slow as possible, while moving the hone in & out swiftly. The "X" shape cross hatch becomes very evident. Cross hatch is very important to spread the engine oil "around" the cylinder wall as it runs. For "me" instead of lube, I spray carb cleaner in the cyl while honing, to clean the stones, and to be able to clearly see your progress without taking off too much. When finished, it's a good idea to put a new ring squarely into the cylinder half way down, and with feeler gauge, measure your ring gap. Ring gap reject specs are available for most engines.
Mechanic has said it. I couldn't tell if you are achieving "any" cross hatch," or just not the classic 45 degree. The stones are abrasive subject to clogging with metal. Try cleaning the stones . You are using lubricant like kerosene or cutting oil?
To add to my previous post, your stone should turn approx "only" 1/4 of a full rotation while you go from the top of the cyl to the bottom. Then another quarter turn as you go from the bottom to the top. is your cylinder aluminum? Or does it have a sleeve. Either way, with clean stones, you will see the hone pattern. Oil tends to clog the stones and mask your pattern and is why I use carb cleaner or I'll do it in the parts washer that uses a non flamable solution to keep the stones from loading up.
Hey thanks,im sorry it took me so long to reply,i was using motor oil wich i see wasnt the best option, 252707 briggs,just imagine the cylender hone on a 3/8 drill full speed going in and out 1 to 2 second strokes,and the classic crosshatch is what i want,need to learn the perfection..lol
Hey thanks,im sorry it took me so long to reply,i was using motor oil wich i see wasnt the best option, 252707 briggs,just imagine the cylender hone on a 3/8 drill full speed going in and out 1 to 2 second strokes,and the classic crosshatch is what i want,need to learn the perfection..lol
YOU'RE SORRY?? YOU BETTER BE!! i'VE BEEN WAITING PATIENTLY FOR YOUR REPLY!!
(only kidding) LOL I was just venting from another poster on this forum.
If you were using a drill at full speed, I hope you haven't taken too much off. Follow the instructions on my previous post about honing and first checking the ring gap (with new rings) The gap should be .010 for the comp ring, and .020 for the oil rings.
i mic'd the cylinder using telescoping mic's,and at 12,6 oclock and at 3,9 oclock top, middle and bottom and the were at 3.435
I don't know what the cyl specs are for your 25 ci engine, but I "do" know the reject ring gap is .010 and .020 (new rings) (old rings are .030)
im curious can i use the old rings to do this?
If your old rings are close to .030 ring gap, don't use. This means that your old rings and/or cyl is worn. with new rings, and upon checking gap, will tell you if your cyl has worn. If your gap is within the .010 (comp) and .020 (oil), your cyl is OK and you will be just fine with new rings.