Briggs Intek 26 hp no start

[crobbins175]

I have an MTD rider with a 25 hp Briggs. Mower was running fine. At the end of last season I replaced the main drive belt. First start attempt after belt replacement resulted in a back fire. Second attempt started up fine.
Drove tge mower to verify the belt was good to go. Parked the mower and not will will not start.
I have verified spark, changed plugs, verified fuel is reaching the carb and looked for flywheel sheer issue. All looks good. Will not even fire when starting fluid is sprayed into the air intake while cranking.
.I'm stumped.. the fuel cut off solenoid is working. I have noticed the fuel blown is dry after trying to start.
Open to thoughts and ideas.

Thanks

 

[MowerNick]

Fuel pump possibly?

 

[crobbins175]

Fuel pump possibly?

Replaced

 

[SeniorCitizen]

Put approx. a short table spoon of gas in the top of the carb and if it starts and runs a few seconds there's still a lack of gas problem .
Flywheel key can be checked without pulling the flywheel , but being it ran for awhile my money is on
---- not flywheel wheel key ----

 

[crobbins175]

Put approx. a short table spoon of gas in the top of the carb and if it starts and runs a few seconds there's still a lack of gas problem .
Flywheel key can be checked without pulling the flywheel , but being it ran for awhile my money is on
---- not flywheel wheel key ----

Poured fuel in both the top of the carb as well as directly into the cylinder. No start. Flywheel key looks to be as it should be.

 

[bertsmobile1]

IF it does not at least fire with fuel down the plug hole and you confirm there is a spark then :-
1) flywheel key is broken & engine ignition is out of time
2) Valves are not working or our of time
3) con rod is broken and piston is not moving in the bore

 

[crobbins175]

IF it does not at least fire with fuel down the plug hole and you confirm there is a spark then :-
1) flywheel key is broken & engine ignition is out of time
2) Valves are not working or our of time
3) con rod is broken and piston is not moving in the bore

Have pulled valve covers and valves are opening and closing. No bent push rods, etc.
Can put fingers over the plug hole and crank the engine. Can feel suction and exhaust pressure.
Will physically pull the flywheel and check the key. Looks fine, but have not actually pulled the flywheel off
Thanks for the thoughts. Will take a closer look at the flywheel key with the flywheel off.

 

[ILENGINE]

Have pulled valve covers and valves are opening and closing. No bent push rods, etc.
Can put fingers over the plug hole and crank the engine. Can feel suction and exhaust pressure.
Will physically pull the flywheel and check the key. Looks fine, but have not actually pulled the flywheel off
Thanks for the thoughts. Will take a closer look at the flywheel key with the flywheel off.

the think about checking the flywheel key is you have to remove the bolt to at least look at. If the nut/bolt isn't then properly torqued the key will shear on the first start attempt even if the flywheel was never removed.

 

[crobbins175]

the think about checking the flywheel key is you have to remove the bolt to at least look at. If the nut/bolt isn't then properly torqued the key will shear on the first start attempt even if the flywheel was never removed.

Thanks for that information. I don't think it's out of time, but it's the only thing that really makes sense.

 

[STEVES]

how did you verify spark, light or gap tester. light style can fool you.